If I heat and bend this (I think I can do it safely) how close do I need to keep in mind the imaginary line that runs from the center of the king pin to the center of the pinion gear? In the Bishop/Tardell book, they bend a 42 up spindle but only to clear the wishbones, not the 4" dropped axle. Also, where would you bend it and feel comfortable? I really hate to buy the bolt on dropped steering arms.....this things is already turning into a credit card rod!
where I have it marked......bend a bit to the left and down? would I need to compensate out of the end where the tie-rod end is by bending it back up....
yes I would start the bend where you have it marked. I bent mine starting there, but you will have to bend the end back up, for some reason people suggest you keep the area where the tie rod goes in parallel to the gound. If you have a rose bud tip for your oxy act. it should work fine, just take your time and let each bend cool by air and then work the next area. good luck
You need to mock up the wishbone, hairpin, or whatever you're using so when you do your bends, you don't end upmaking your tierod hit it. If you're using a wishbone, you're probably going to have to make the tie rod go above the bone. It appears that your spindles are already tapered to have the tie rod end on top of the arm. This should work in your favor. Keep in mind that you may have to taper the hole from the other side to get the clearance needed. If your rod goes over the bone, be sure to trim the back of your crossmember (if it's a stock Model A or 32) so it doesn't hit. Another good idea is to use a backing plate as a measurement guide so you can get both sides to be the same. Bend slow, don't force it. Good luck.
I'm in the middle of doing the same thing under my '38 Ford 4-door convert. This'll be my 5th dropped axle installation. I don't see how the hell ya' can bend the steering arms enough to gain enough clearance and maintain a reasonable amount of Ackerman. Do yourself a big favor and cut loose with the $dough$ for the dropped steering arms. I just cut my the arms off my spindles yesterday and had the machine shop fit my bushing to the king pins today. I will be installing dropped Magnum arms. Did ya' already fit your bushing to the pins? If so, I'd keep the heat away from the bushings. There's other places to cut costs, but I don't think is one of them .
Hey Youngin, In my opinion yes to both questions, I think you got it scoped out right on. As someone else said, you'll probably have to take the tierod over the top of the split bones and I think you already have the crossmember trimmed for clearance. On mine I had to "drop" the tierod to clear everything which limits the range on toe in adjustment but it works. ( I just deleted some pics I took for another fellow but can take more if you want to see it) I'm like you, some things I'd rather do myself rather than get the card out. The old rodders (older than me..HA) never heard of Ackerman and all the other geometry theorys so I didn't concern myself with it either. Some folks still say running the tie rod in front of the axle won't work, like T-buckets and other radically low rods...........but these are hot rods ......not Corvettes. You're front tires may be shot a little earlier and you won't be able to navigate a slalom like a vette.....again, Its a hot rod and that's what I wanted. I almost forgot, the steering arms contacting the axle drops are the stops on mine and are probably even maring the paint a bit. Also I'm sure its probably not as much steering travel as it was but you know what, it works..........its a hot rod. Hope this helps,
Thanks for all the info! redbeard: I forgot about the parallel with the ground.....thanks Corn fed: good tip on the backing plate for measurement, and I'll mock everything up as far as I can take it....thanks Oil Can Harry: I bought these spindles off of an old hot rodder, after I cleaned them up, I noticed that the arms had been cut off, flipped and rewelded (someone did a good job); and the cross steer eye had been cut off of the right side steering........they must have spent some time on a hot rod or was in the stages of a hot rod modified driver: I agree with you, I'm gonna try this first and if I'm not satisfied, I'll order some......I read an article on steering setups and it said, "how much is your life worth to you?" AV8Jon: your right, I don't expect this thing to drive like a caddy, that would take away from some of the fun
I agree with modifiedd... I cut mine off and installed dropped arms. Even the bought ones had clearance issues. I had to trim them to hug the spindle alittle closer. So prepare yourself...
"Oil Can Harry: I bought these spindles off of an old hot rodder, after I cleaned them up, I noticed that the arms had been cut off, flipped and rewelded (someone did a good job); and the cross steer eye had been cut off of the right side steering........they must have spent some time on a hot rod or was in the stages of a hot rod" And those spindles do come both ways...I think it's '37-40 with tie rod below, 1941 tie rod above.
With this new info, I'd suggest cutting them back off and useing new arms. I wouldn't trust steering arms that have been cut and welded. Especially since it was someone elses old welding job. If you want old arms on your car, buy a different set of spindles and start over.
It sounds like you're asking if you can do this with one bend (outward). Which will mean a longer tie rod. Great setup for dirt track racing, but not for the street. In order to maintain that line you're talking about, you'll need an "S" shaped bend... and the same length tie rod. So, use your tie rod as your gauge. This is going to use up alot of length on those arms and move the tie rod closer to the axle. Just do everything the same on both sides. Make the first (outward) bend to clear the axle. Don't worry, at that point, about anything but heading toward the height you want to end up at, and go half that distance. If you're already at the level you want, then keep it there. Let it cool enough so it will keep it's shape as you make the second (inward) bend and let 'er fly... If you are going up or down, go the other half of the distance from the first bend and back in, to where you need to be. Once it's done, I'd TIG weld some kind of pretty gussets where it's welded. If it doesn't work, as good as you hope it does, then, you could opt for aftermarket arms. Also... A few pieces of threaded rod through the holes where the backing plates bolt up, is a good way to hold the hubs square while you work. Put stop nuts inside and out on both hubs. JOE
With that bit of news, I wouldn't use those spindles without cutting the arms off and using bolt ons, or find a couple spindles that haven't been cut and welded.
Cheap***! You ain't the GO-rilla, almighty "King of Free"! HA HA HA! Wish I was as far along as you, lookin good.
No! I'm feeling guilty that I'm taking the easy road..... I originaly wanted to make and do most of it myself.........the way it's supposed to be......... ****! I gave $5 for these things! I probably shouldn't trust someone else's welding....I weld and I'll have to say they certiainly did (what looks like) a good job...........probably big slag inclusions underneath that nicely dressed weld.....be bad to find out at 80 in a slight curve...
This is how i bent mine Start close to the kingpin, bend downward. After that you can start bending the rest, so you will regain ackerman and proper wishbone clearance. It works OK for me.
I like the side profile....it just kinda hit me..... Go-rilla....I don't answer to ***......I think you might be looking for the guy with pink walls in his garage......Pete Joe!
That turned out pretty good.......I'm gonna give it a try before I buy something. If I don't feel comfortable with it......I'll buy some.
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