There are many, many posts on both the HAMB and Ford Barn about fixing those pesky cracks in old Bakelite/Vulcanite steering wheels...Some suggest, JB Weld, others like PC-7, and still others prefer a variety of specialized epoxies. A few months back, I tried JB Weld (both "quick" and "regular"), PC-7, and a 3M epoxy designed specifically for outdoor use on plastic...the results were less than spectacular; each of the epoxies tested had a tendency to shrink (when cold) and expand (when heated) at a different rate than the surrounding Bakelite, making the repaired areas obvious. I suspect our high humidity and extreme temperatures might have something to do with this. The above listed products may work quite well in more temperate climates, but if you live in the sunny south - keep reading. On a hunch, I decided to experiment with super glue (CA). To my surprise, it reacts to heat and cold much like the original material...the '36 standard wheel shown below was exposed to temps ranging from 50-100* this summer/fall without cracking, shrinking, or expanding. Here's what I do to repair mine; "Vee" out cracks - I like to open the cracks up to at least 1/8" with a v-shaped file, being very careful to save the dust/shavings. Lightly sprinkle a small amount of the collected bakelite filings/dust into the "Veed" out areas Carefully pour a small amount of CA glue into the crack. I prefer gel-type CA glues, as they are less prone to run. While the CA glue is still wet, apply more bakelite dust. File/sand to shape. Repeat steps 2-4 as needed until the crack is filled. Sand excess, paint, and polish as described below. I prefer lacquer, as it dries fast and polishes in a manner resembling bakelite. Here are some photos I took while restoring a '36 standard wheel; Cracks are opened up and bakelite dust/CA applied; Light 'guide coat' of lacquer applied; Guide coat sanded with 800 grit; Another coat is applied, then sanded with 1000 grit; Final lacquer coat applied, then wet sanded with 1500, 2000, 3000, and buffed with cheesecloth. To my eye, this finish is virtually indistinguishable from the stock bakelite, although one could achieve a higher luster with cutting and buffing. Hope this helps someone!
It doesn't, but it's better than buying a new one. Model Aer's have been doing this for ages. When it starts to crack again just redo it. You'll be proud of it for years. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Not exactly on a driver, but I left it outside for about a month (August), then inside my truck for another month. I can't say it's been exposed to the same stresses as it would on a driver, but I did mount it up on my mocked up chassis and pushed/pulled on the rim to see if I could get it to crack. Still looks like it did the day I fixed it. Time will tell.
I've used this trick (with a twist) to repair plastic body parts on motorcycles and it works great. The twist? Rather than trying to gather enough 'bits' of the parent material for filler, use baking soda. Yep, the stuff you'll find in the kitchen cabinet. Apply the glue (although I've had better luck with the liquid) liberally, then sprinkle the soda over it. This dries almost instantly, repeat until the repair is filled enough to work to shape, then sand or file to shape. And this resulting 'plastic' is stronger than you think; I've successfully repaired plastic lock 'tabs' on bike sidecovers where part of the retaining tab that goes into the lock has been broken off. Once there's enough material in place, I've filed the 'lump' to size and had a functioning part again. Never thought about using this on a steering wheel, but there's no reason this wouldn't work!
How about mixing the filings in the glue? That is how repairs are made to a hardwood floor. The saw dust is mixed with (I think clear?) and used to fill old nail holes and cracks. I realize you'd need a lot of bakelite dust. I used Evercoat's everglass (short strand) on the '59 wheel in my cabrio. No problems with it yet.
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