Now for my next problem child. I rebuilt the manual steering box in my 57 fairlane. I did so because the bearings were worn out, and it felt like the steering was going to lock up at any moment. Now however, the steering is smooth but it's tighter than a frogs a××. I have no idea what could have gone wrong. Anyone else encountered this?
Did you adjust the lash with the box perfectly centered and and align it so the box is centered when going straight? If not you need to start there.
Never worked on that box so Im just throwing out ideas.Are bearing clearances set by adding,or removing paper gaskets to set bearing free play? You may need one more to loosen it up.Is the adjustment screw on the side/top adjusted correctly? You may need to back it off a bit. Did you put in a new pitman arm bushing? If so did the pitman shaft go through easy? If not it might have needed reaming so the arm turns freely.
The adjustment screw seems to be set correctly. If I loosen it up any the steering wheel has way to much play. There weren't any gaskets to set free play. The pitman arm bushings may be something to look at. I don't recall it being particularly easy to install. Not hard, but not easy either. Thanks for the input.
As irishsteve mentioned end gaskets are a big deal. Without them or only using 1 you have a crush load on the end bearings. Setting end play with gaskets is step #1 before anything else goes in the box.
Sounds like my next step is to take it back out and double check everything. Not a fun job. I'll need to start stocking up on new cuss words. Cuz I'm gonna need them.
If the sector rides in a brass bushing, it may need to be reamed to fit the sector. Take it to a machine shop that can ream it with a Sunnen hone. Earlier Fords have brass bushings for the sector and they don’t come ready to use. They need reaming after install in the box.
Did you test the steering-gear box for tightness before attaching steering components? If the steering shaft turned freely be hand (as it should have), your problem is not the steering box. I had to replace an upper ball joint. After doing so, the spindle was very tight. This is not uncommon. Sometimes ball joints will loosen up once seated, after putting a few miles on it. However, the replacement ball joint is aftermarket, Made in India. Thinking the new ball joint could be defective, I later bought a NOS Ford ball joint. When I take the car in for alignment, I will take the NOS ball joint with me. If necessary, the shop can remove the aftermarket ball join and install the NOS.
Looking for rebuild info on that 57 box the rebuild kit from Mac's shows a pack of shims 1956-57 Ford Passenger Car Steering Box Repair Kit (macsautoparts.com) That kit has needle roller bearings on the sector shaft. The steering box gasket set from Dennis Carpenter has a batch of gaskets to be used as shims. Steering Box Gasket Set for 1952-57 Ford Cars | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restorations (dennis-carpenter.com)
I replaced the ball joints just prior to doing the steering box. I did not get good quality ones, so it's entirely possible that could have something to do with it. Who sells good oem ball joints?
You occasionally see them on ebay, but I bought mine from a member of the local chapter of CTCI (Classic Thunderbird Club International).
Alchemy is correct in sizing the brass bushing to the shaft if that's what you have. However, I disagree with having it honed. I preferer to use an adjustable ream to cut it to size. Gives a clean and smooth finish instead of a crosshatch pattern.
It’s very easy to crush a new ball joint upon installation if the correct tools are not used. I’ve seen it more than once at work.
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