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Hot Rods stock powerglide question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by drumyn29, Jan 10, 2018.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,513

    gimpyshotrods
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    If it were me, and I were hellbent on keeping the engine, I would get an adapter, and put in a 700R4.

    It has a nice low 1st gear to get the heavy truck moving, and an overdrive, so visiting the freeway would be a manageable endeavor.
     
    belair likes this.
  2. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    I'm actually hell bent on keeping it all original with only a few small exceptions. I was only going to add the carbs but once I installed them, It felt like it needed a little more torque to get the ol gal going. It's a daily driver so maybe I'll just keep it that way. Thank you for your input.
     
  3. Okay, here's the deal. I had to go out to the shop and look in the old books.
    If you have a 1960 , welded converter, then you have what's known as a PG 2 in Dacco stuff. At one time the largest national rebuilder.
    The bolt circle is 12 ".
    An off the shelf alum PG custom built converter will fit the trans, however, the bolt pattern will most likely be 10.5", so don't be surprised at that.
     
    Model A Vette likes this.
  4. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,513

    gimpyshotrods
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    And at that, as Jim mentioned, you can re-drill the flexplate. The converter is piloted and supported by the recess in the back of the crank. The bolts keep it tight up against the flexplate.

    Think of a hubcentric wheel, the lugs don't solely support the wheel, the hub does most of the work.

    TL;DR: This doodle:
    [​IMG]
    Goes in this hole:
    [​IMG]
    (SBC shown. Yours should be similar.)
     
  5. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    a few pics

    IMG_2299.JPG IMG_2300.JPG IMG_2301.JPG IMG_2305.JPG IMG_2306.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

  6. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    You guys are really sticking with me till the end, I am grateful, thank you.
     
    37coupeute and gimpyshotrods like this.
  7. Sounds simple enough, but I don't believe it will be. I think there's a step or ledge involved in this mess.
    Can't find a pic, between Google totally mucked up with garbage, and the Photophuket BS, I've had enough.
    If anyone can take a pic of a 235 ,12 volt flex plate, please post it here.
    Otherwise we'll just have to wait for pics of the o/p's thrash, right here in HAMB Land.
     
  8. Thank you .. That's what I thought.
    Measure straight across to farthest holes. That is the bolt circle.
    Supposed to be a welded converter in 1960.
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,925

    squirrel
    Member

    you need to measure across the center of the flex plate to get the bolt pattern diameter :)

    The flexplate is flat. But we don't know what the relationship between the converter pilot and the pads is on the bolt together style original converter..how far they are offset. It might be the same as the later welded converters.

    I think it will probably work. But I'm not 100% sure.

    also, do you have a tach in the truck, so you know what RPM it's turning under various driving conditions?

    also, I think you'll find bolted converters as late as 61 or 62, the first one of these I worked on was a 61, it had a bolted converter.
     
  10. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    The reason for this picture is because my torque converter has 3 bolts, so I measured the nearest. IMG_2299.JPG
     
  11. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    farthest holes across the center

    IMG_2309.JPG
     
  12. Jim, I believe it's the same pattern, bolted or welded. The early mount tabs were bolted on with the cover bolts , hence the 12" pattern. Pretty sure they continued that with the welded converters...Same flex plate, etc.
     
  13. Okay, now that it's back on, take it back off and flip it over. Place a 12" flat bar or a school ruler across from bolt to bolt. See if it's flat all the way across.
     
  14. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
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    It has a raised flange around the center.
     
  15. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,513

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If that converter you bought is indeed the one in the picture, transferring the 10-1/2" pattern should be pretty easy. It looks like the bolt pads are outboard of the converter body.

    Put the flexplate on the engine, and snug up all of the bolts. Put the converter pilot in the registration hole in the back of the crank. Clamp down two of three of the bolt pads to the flex plate, just inside the existing converter bolt holes. Drill the unclamped hole. Move a clamp to that pad, and repeat the process until all three are done.

    If you have transfer punches, mark the holes, and drill on the bench, on in a drill press.
     
  16. I know that. That's why I said to flip it over.
     
  17. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,925

    squirrel
    Member

    Also, don't be too concerned about having to wallow out a hole or two if you miss....they started making the bolt holes in flexplates pretty large some time in the 70s (?), they seem to work fine, although they require a bolt with a washer built into the head.
     
  18. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    Sorry I wasn't clear, on the other side I know that there is a RAISED flange.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
  19. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,513

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Get flange bolts and flange nuts:
    [​IMG]
    Get them no longer than necessary, and at your local Orchard Supply Hardware, and man others.
     
  20. Sounds like you're responding to me..maybe?
    How about a picture of a 12" bar across the flex on the engine side?
     
  21. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    consider it done tomorrow morning.
    there is a RAISED flange on the backside
     
  22. I don't know, boys. I think I see a stamping mark and a raised area about 3/4 " in, just about where the new bolt holes would go.
    I'll be interested in what The Expert has to say about this, too.
     
  23. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,513

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Maybe. I am not sure:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    :confused:
     
  24. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,513

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When you get a chance, can yo put a ruler/level/other flat thing/etc. across, from the end of the spoke, down the spoke, across the hub, up the other spoke, to the end, and let us know if that is a flat or curved surface?
    upload_2018-1-11_21-2-55.png
     
  25. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

  26. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    Flat, like my head.

    IMG_2314.JPG
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  27. Okay. You did order that 10" converter, right? I'd verify that it fits the trans, before I drilled anything.
    Double check the bolt pattern, then I suppose you could re-drill the flex. Not a good place to be drilling and mounting, where it's supposed to be flexing, in my opinion, but you should get away with it for a while.
    You could pilot it in the crank and then mark /drill the holes, as stated, or just move the holes inboard the appropriate amount. Go oversize a bit , at least 10 mil., and try it.
    Keep us updated.
     
  28. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    I don't like drilling a flex plate either but I'll give it a try and post later.
     
  29. Or just buy a 10" converter for a power glide, they come with the tabs adjusted just for that app.

    GM used smaller converters behind 6s in the '80s, they helped the wheezer motor not stall out at a light.
     
  30. drumyn29
    Joined: Feb 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,279

    drumyn29
    Member

    Well I finally ****oned up my motor after measuring my convertor against smaller convertors and making a few phone calls. Basically, the only way I can get a more out of my cast PG is to send my torque convertor in to have it rebuilt.

    I want to say a HUGE thank you to the guys that stuck it out and helped my on the H.A.M.B
     
    saltflats likes this.

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