I'm in the process of picking up a '26 or '27 T frame, and plan on building a little single seater with a stock-ish banger. Ideally using front and rear Model T springs, and front and rear Model A axles. I've been told that it's better to bolt stuff to a T frame than it is to weld to it. As far as engine and transmission mounting, what have people had success in doing?
T frames are made from very good quality steel. They weld just fine. I built a T truck on a T frame with a 4 cylinder Chev 153 Nova engine, 39 trans , and an A rear end, was a fun car to drive.
I just wanted to second the fact that model T frames are good steel. Henry made his frames out of vanadium steel. They were super strong and took twisting loads very well. I have fully boxed a Model T frame and run a 302 with a c4 in a 1927 coupe without problems.
How was welding the frame? I’ve been told that it’s better to bolt the T frame than it is to weld it, somehow it affects the flexing?
The flexing of the T ch***is was a feature that Henry wanted because of the terrain that car had to work with in 1910. Larger rigid ch***is would often find a loss of traction control because of ruts and uneven surfaces, especialy when crossing streams. ( "Get a horse" )
I have two cars with T frames both are heavily modified. Both are boxed and everything has been welded on. The roadster is lengthened using two sets of rails. Reason being was to get room for the flathead and I’m using 35-6 rear wishbones that run the spring behind the axle. The single seater uses T rails also.
I'd be using mine with a mostly stock banger. I'm thinking of adding some sort of bolt-in crossmember, and possibly wood inbetween the rails for a little added support. Thank you for all the info! I remember reading your build thread on the single seater some time ago. Time to read it all again!
I'd use a T ch***is with a banger. It's in an A frame, but I built this X member recently to drop under the original and gain some foot space for a 24T roadster build. Stiffens it up a treat and bolts in place on the original engine mount bolts up front and a couple of original holes at the rear. Only had to drill two extra holes.