Stock T frames with a banger?

I recently picked up a '26 or '27 T frame and am planning on using it to build a bucket. I plan on using a banger motor so not planning on much HP. After reading through the forums I found most people prefer to build a new frame out of tubing. I understand that this is better, but I was wondering if anyone has had success with a boxed stock frame and an engine thats not putting out much power. If so please post some pics. Thanks.

 

Funny, I was driving down the road the other day when a pickup pulling a trailer of junk iron pulled up next to me at the stop light. On top was a T frame! I hailed him down and $10 I had the frame in the back of a station wagon heading towards the shed.

I'm thinking along the same lines of boxing the frame and using a low HP four banger (maybe a Ford 2300) to make a 'speedster' type run around.

 

Using a banger for power, I'd box it. It'd be cool to keep the genie frame.

 

Its more work boxing it than building a new
frame

 

I'd either use a cut-down TT frame or an A frame (unboxed).

I'm knee deep in a '27 RPU on an A ch***is with a hopped up A banger. The T roadster pickup body looks like it was made for the A frame, just needs a couple minor tweaks.

 

BINGO! And, it won't be warped mess when you done too...

 

One of the great features of the T frame was the flexibility. This helped make up for the primitive suspension - the frame would twist under severe conditions and spring back unharmed. This is why Ford used a special alloy for the frame.

Early hot rods were built with unboxed Model T frames and Model T motors. When they got into more powerful motors they used stronger frames, Ed Iskenderian used Hudson Es*** frame rails for his V8 powered T bucket in 1938, the Es*** frame was popular in race cars and rods because it was similar to a T but stronger.

Long story short, use the T frame unboxed but keep the engine under 2000cc. You will have a lot of fun and a light weight car.

 

Agreed, but I'd base it more on engine output than size...stock T motor is 2900cc (177 CID)

 

There's some cool things that can be done on the T frame like an early "speedster" with and A or a B 4 banger, but as noted above, if you're looking to put more than 80 hp in it, you need a better frame. Check out some of the ideas getting kicked around the restoration guys.

http://forums.aaca.org/f230/

 

Yes thats what im talking 400 +inches of
welding plus all the unused holes to weld
if its so COOL to use a original frame
why dont use all the stock parts to bee
realy COOL...

 

It also put out 20HP in stock form and had a top speed of 45MPH. A good hot rod Model T in the twenties might put out 30 or 35HP and do 70 (I knew an old timer who built one and that was his claim)

I would want to keep HP well under 100 or use a better frame and suspension. Remember the stock Model T had no brakes on the front, handbrake drums on the back, and service brake (pedal brake) in the transmission.

 

Your preachin' to the converted! I have seen more"A" and "T" frames destroyed by boxing than helped. That and if you don't step box them you chase cracks until you've welded them twice that length.

Now, to the original poster, what I would try in your shoes would be an unboxed frame with an "X" member that spans as much of the length of the frame as you can. That would help the beam strength issue as well as the torsional movement problems.

 

In 1927, when Ford was tooling up for the Model A there was concern that the bodies would not be ready in time for the anticipated start of production. The contingency plan was to build using the 26/27 Model T bodies and the new Model A ch***is.

As a result the Model A frame accepts the late Model T body with almost no modification. Further, 28/29 fenders and running boards work as well.

Ford never built the "Super T" but the body swap was a pre-war hot rod staple.

T frames are really quite common. A couple of years ago I saw a pile of them at a swap meet with a price of $50 each. My understanding is that Ford did not start stamping serial numbers on frames until 1926 and then only for production at some plants. If your frame has a serial number it might be useful for registration purposes. Even so, I would use a Model A frame.

 

The only problem with that Bib, is that the wheelbase of the Model "A" is 3 1/2" longer than the "T". Lots of guys hear the "T" on an "A" call and don't realize this. Not a big deal if your building a fenderless car, but start hanging running boards and fenders and things get pretty dicey pretty quickly.

 

Original T frames are made of really good alloy steel.
I recently built a full fendered '15 T on a stock un-boxed T frame.
Chevy Nova 4 cylinder '39 trans, A rear end. made up a VERY narrow '32 center crossmember, 40-48 ford cross steering. dropped axle with a modified unsplit '34 wishbone.
The car drives really good !

 

thanks for the input everyone.It definitely makes me re consider using the t frame. It would be nice to build a ch***is with some new clean tubing. or even a boxed model a frame if i can pick one up cheap. anyone want to buy a model t frame. haha.

 

You could use the front and rear crossmembers with some new tubing for the rails???

 

Sounds like a few photos are in order. Bob

 

I like this idea.

 

This sounds pretty cool. do you have any pics?