Ok, this seems to come up kinda often, so I figured to give a basic idea on Stovebolts. Originally introduced in 1929 in a 194 CID version, the "cast iron wonder" evolved into 207, 216 and eventually a 235, the High Torque. These are all 4 main bearing (babbit pounders) with the rod and trough oil system. This oil system actually uses "dippers" on the rods to pick up oil for the rod bearings. While it seems like it isn't as good as full pressure oil, IF IT IS PROPERLY SET UP, it will work just fine for all but the most all out performance cars. In a crusier, it'll work just perfect. Just be sure to keep up on maintanance, as most early Stovebolts didn't have filter systems. Change the oil when it starts to get dark, black colored. The newer 235/261's were introduced with the introduction of the Powerglide transmission in the early Fifties. They are completely different than the earlier engines, as they use insert main/rod bearings, pressure oil and a totally different head. They are more "desirable" because of the technolgical advancements that they incorporate. As comes up often, adapting a later 6 (post 62) isn't really possible with the bellhousing that bolts to a Stovebolt. There are adapters out there, but they are pricey. Also, when adapting a later 235/261 to an earlier body (pre 55), you need to keep an eye on your water pump length, as sometimes it can actually interfere with the radiator. I did however this week talk to someone about an adapter, and if I get off my **** and go out to the garage, we'll see about what it'll take to make one for TH auto bolt patterns... The best places to go for info are definately www.inliners.org - the Inliners International website www.stoveboltengineco.com - Tom Langon is an Inliner through and thru. www.stovebolt.com - For early Chevy trucks, but they know alot. www.chevytalk.com - Obviously, they know Chevy's. www.vcca.org- Vintage Chevy ***ociation, slower than Chevytalk, but lotsa knowledge over there. There are limited factory "hop up" parts for Stovebolts, but the earliest Vettes did use multi carb manifolds. Expect to pay $$$$ if you get one. The aftermarket still has a pretty good following, you can buy lots of stuff for them new. I did get a flyer from the reopened Wayne Manufacturing Company last year, but I sent some emails last month that never got answered. Wayne makes a 12 port "crossflow" head. That means it's like an overhead V8 type, where the intake is on one side and exhaust is on the other, so the air flows "straight through" instead of in and out in a "horseshoe" shape. Better flow= more power. Many companies still make cams, just be sure to call and tell them specifically what you wanna do to get the best cam for your money. If you want the best bang for the buck, try to find a 228/270/302 GMC. They are a literal bolt in (well for the most part) and as they say, "No replacement for Displacement!". Most Chevy accessories will bolt to them too. That's a quick and dirty on Stovebolts. I'll be able to share more later this summer, after I make my intake and exhaust. Jay
When you're ***-deep in Stovebolts...make lemonade??? !!! Ha Ha Ha...just kiddin', of course. SOMEBODY has to love those motors, might as well be you! Great info, and it answers some of the commonly asked questions, too.
Yep, and they repeated history on the Vega engine! It had dippers too. Only problem with them is they dipped out of a windage tray and if the engine was a pint low on oil, the tray was dry and no oil got to the bearings or cylinder walls. Of course all it took to get that low was for the valve seals to start ****ing oil or rear main seal start leaking...Even the factory said to replace these at 50,000 miles but that was actually too long, they just wanted the thing out of warranty before the HEAD had to come off (or the front end of the car, to get the cam out the front, that's the road I took and don't recommend it. Just put a V8 in it instead) to do the seals. When it gets right down to it, I think splash oiling is just fine... for my lawn mower. Oh if you happen to have an old Vega, (do any still exist?) and it starts idling rough, check for a sunk carburetor float FIRST!
I think Fat Hack is cornering the market on Vega's... oh wait, those are Citations. I also forgot to mention some printed sources I found. California Bill has a 1954 Speed manual for Chev/GMC/Buick inlines. Great source for "how it used to be." And the reason I found these Stovebolts anyway. And Leo Santucci has the Chevrolet Inline Six Cylinder Power Manual. It is for the later LD/HD/TD sixes, but has alot of helpful info and lots of basics on running a Six. Lastly, as always, be sure to get a Factory Service Manual for your application. The 49-54 is available in reprint, real cheap, or you can find them online at Amazon or that auction site. Keep it inline! Jay
Cool thanks for posting the info. I have 3 of these boat anchors.... I mean motors 2x'29, 1x'30 This is the '29 I'll be running. run down on the chev stovebolt
Yeah, I was just reading the roadster post and saw your sig line. Nice stuff! The engines like yours have the cylinders cast different than the later blocks. You can see the individual cylinders on yours, the later ones you can't. Have any pix of the other side? For reference, of course. Jay
Good Info. One other thing I might add about the 216,early 235 oiling system. What made it work was the fact that not only did it have the dippers and trough for low RPM oiling, it also had nozzles in the pan that squirted the oil at the dippers at higher RPM's. Not exactly the best system, but keep em full of clean oil and keep the rev's below about 3500 and they'll run a long time.
Right-o. I knew I'd forget something. The squirters did actually squirt at the dippers, so it was "semi pressure" oiled. The big problem was if you pulled the pan and didn't realign the squirter/dipper combo. There was even a gauge fixture for that. Thanks for the memory jog. Jay
Wayne claims they have intakes, but they've yet to be machined. They've been saying this for over a year. Hmmm...
Yeah, I sent some emails a couple months back, no response. They did, when I talked to them last year, say they could make a head to fit the 216. I didn't ask what that would cost, I saw the basic price list! But, when you've got the only ball in the neighborhood... Jay
Good info.. I thought I would get some driving out of my 50 chevy.. then I got the bug for some speed parts .I just like to bolt things on and hope they work!! I did not get any info on bolting on the carbs(carter webers) and I washed the bores with gas and got it into the oil . I changed the oil and was letting her tick over .About 20 mins later it stopped dead looks like it locked up .Is there anything I can do ,I have a 62 biscane engine it needs head work, what do you think just but the money into the later engine.
There's always Clifford Performance. They used to do all the early Hudson racing stuff. They have some stovebolt parts. Speedway also carries quite abit. I've heard the best bang for buck upgrade is the split exhaust manifold. I also heard that there's a head bolt boss that runs through the intake side (up front) that you can machine out and increase the flow alot. I know you can keep the remote filter system but I'm thinking about doing the full pressure system/pvc valve conversion for peace of mind. My '62 is my daily and I want as much reliabilty as possible.
Spooky. Only had my 51 styleline on the road for a couple of days, and you're posting answers to some of my questions before I ask them! I've picked up a couple of 235's to build into a replacement for the rather sad 216 living there at the moment. One thing I'd like to ask. Is there a "good" head to look out for a****st my s**** iron? I have a 58 and a 62 engine (with a factory twin downpipe exhaust manifold?) and another head that possibly has bigger valves? Can't compare as the other engines are still together. Plan is to rebuild it to run on unleaded/LPG. But with the original on borrowed time I don't think I have long...
Hi monkeybiker I am not far from you ,I am in Belfast .. Let me know how you get on with the lpg .. I have twin carter/webers fentons on mine would the lpg work with twin carbs?? where do you get your engine parts from is there anywere in the UK.
As far as a "good" head to look for, go for one that the casting # ends in 848. That's the one! Just remember to do everything as a "package". Don't go balls out on an intake and cam, and forget the exhaust... that's the most common problem. Just throwing parts at something won't work. Or, don't upgrade just the engine, think of the trans and rear end, and especially BRAKES! Going fast ain't no good if ya can't get back slowed! Good luck... I knew there were more people than me out there who liked these things! V8minor, do a HAMB search for locked up engines. Try some of those tricks. If all else fails, drop the pan and see what's up. But I bet you know the answer to your own question. Sorry. The 62 Biscayne engine, I think, is a 235. The last year of the "original" Stovebolt. Jay
Cheers for that - I'll have a check in the daylight tomorrow. Any idea on picking up valves to suit unleaded? The late block I have has a casting number D122 - I'm guessing 12th April 1962? Any ideas what it came out of - does the manifold give it away or were all later model sixes twin exit exhaust? V8Minor - the engines I've just fell on in the last month since I bought the car. Think US Automotive in Bedford carry some stuff, not sure yet till I tear this thing down. Up until a month ago I was a flathead only man and I knew where to shop. I'll be converting to LPG on just the single carb for now. With 4.11 gears, I might as well take my time accelerating!
So when is the Chrysler 318/360 primer coming? I understand you have several of those to choose from over at casa de 6 gunner...
Focus, gr***hoppa, Small block Mopar not Traditional enough... Besides, that's Hack territory, brotha! As far as the dual manifold... I personally have never seen one. Perhaps a picture to help the unenlightened...? Maybe it's an export thing, I dunno. Probably would want stainless valves, but it's not so much the valves as putting in Hardened valve seats that makes an engine unleaded friendly. I put up this post to help gather info for us few that dig the inlines, so anyone that has interesting stuff, put it up please! Jay
I'm going to be putting an original Nicson dual carb intake & fentons on my 216, there is a place down south of me that does a full pressure conversion on the 216 also that I may look into. I believe the GMC motors will not take the bolt on stuff for Chevys as the port spacing is different. I bought a Nicson side plate for my 216 last year from a guy at Turlock who had the coolest inline speed stuff I've ever seen. You can build a really really cool looking Jimmy or Chevy 6. Also aftermarket intakes for the 216 & 235 are actually different as the ports are a slightly different size between the motors and if you try to bolt up to the stock exhaust manifold (lots of dual carb setups have this provision) a 216 type won't fit on a 235 and vice/versa as the exhaust manifold flange is different where the manifold meets it. If you are using headers it will work though you may have to do some enlarging on the ports. I have been told that the Thickstun, Tattersfield & NIcson manifolds were actually only made for the 216, though I've seen them installed on 235 motors. Now how about earlier Chevy 4 bangers with Olds 3 port heads....hmm next thread I guess...
Now how about earlier Chevy 4 bangers with Olds 3 port heads....hmm next thread I guess you read my mind! I guess, like you, I am progressing backwards, going from SBC, to inline 6 to early Chevy 4's... but in time... Correct on all counts with the spacing issue, except with the 216/235 High Torques... they are externally the same. It's the later Powerglide 235's that differ. The High Torque is the same cept'n the block, which is taller due to the longer stroke. You can jerry rig stuff to work, but it is better to buy for the specific engine family you have. PLEASE post pix of your full NICSON package, I'm muy jealous! Jay
Dang Ratboy. You've got the side cover I've been looking years for to complete my Nicson setup. I've got the valve cover and manifold. I know there's one on that auction site now but it's gonna go for silly money. Oh well, swap season is upon us once again so I've got my fingers crossed.
This is a great post. When my 216 developed a rod-knock, we dropped the oil pan and found enough shiny shrapnel to make a lovely disco-ball (see FatHack there's a reason why 216's were invented!). My 216 already had all the shims removed and there was plenty of evidence that it had be limped along for some time. Something that hasn't been said, that I think should be is the fact that these earlier babbit bearing engines should be "babied". Most of the driving I do is highway miles, and many of the roads I travel are posted 65 MPH roads. If this is the kind of driving you do, you should consider an upgrade to the later model pressure-oiled engine, along with other upgrades like a better rear and ******. I'm sure the those higher speed highway miles led directly to Faye's 216's early death and I guess had I known that she shouldn't go that fast I probably would have spent more time on back roads. As for the water pump thing mentioned above, we encountered the clearance problem with ours, but found out that the pulley was pressed on, and could be pressed further to line up correctly and then the shaft could be shortened. You can buy the shorter water pumps, but you can also make your own with a little effort (which is all the guys that sell them do in the first place!) Stacey
Thanks for the info.... I've been considering an inline 6 in project for a while now. There is a neat article in the new HOT ROD magazine about performance I-6's as well. Andy
On the 216 front, you can get them converted to full pressure for the bottom end, also insert bearing rods were made for them to convert them from babbit. I have been looking into the rearend gearing thing too. I'm going to try to stick to mine just because its gonna look so damn *****en with that Nicson stuff on it + I like the idea of keeping the 216 rather than putting something else in (unless it was a hopped up GMC 270/302)
Olds three port? funny you should mention that Does Anyone Have Info On Olds 3-Port Head to '25 Chev Block? one of my all time favourite motors. SixGunner, here are the pics you wanted.
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