Strange mechanical theories?!?

Has anyone ever seen an oil pan pumped dry? I never have. I call ******** on that.

 

We have all heard that the reason the 60 Impala had smaller fins than the 59 was because the 59 would start to "fly" on the highway. When I was 14 I wanted one because of this!

One of the kids in highschool was sure that all you had to do was hook an airconditioning compressor up to the carb for balls out speed!

"If you get struck by lightning in your car you wont get hurt because of the rubber tires"

 

The oil pressure gage on my Bronco would start bouncing if the engine was run above 3400rpm (interstate speed) for more than a few minutes. If I slowed down a bit the pressure would come back.

The PCV system would also start to **** oil at speed. Cruising at 55, it didn't use any oil, at 70 it would lose a quart every 100 miles. I can only figure the oil was being pumped to the valve covers faster than it could drain.

 

Had a guy tell me that if you drill a hole in a piece of metal, then put a screw in the hole, you regain the original strength.

Same bright spot took his Harley and trailer up through Canada. Said Bright spot had a swingarm hitch on his bike. After welding the trailer tongue some 4 - 5 times, after breaking same 4 - 5 times, it was finally strong enough. Then the hitch broke.

Cosmo

 

The oil going past "loose"bottom end clearances goes straight back to the pan. What is higher volume going to do to allow more oil to the top end? The pressure is the same, the orifices are the same, ?????
I ran a 283 with ridiculous valve spring pressure and 327 cam, heads and intake to 7500 RPM for one summer, high volume and pressure pump, never saw the oil pressure drop at speed.

 

I once went to an older guy for some Model A parts and had to listen to a lone explanation on why mechanical brakes are better then Hydralic brakes. Guy really ment it.

 

Straight back to the pan and slung all over heck by the fact that the crank it is coming from is spinning say pretty fast. Straight is a relative term here. I definitely didnt have the money in those days for a crank s****er and windage tray. Of course since the oil falls straight back to the pan these items would have been useless and a waste of money.

I guess the 2nd gear 6000+RPM oil pressure gauge drop that was fixed by a 7 quart pan was in fact the RPM induced oil eating pygmies trapped in my oil pan that were innately programmed to puke as the RPM dropped back down

And I guess you're right about the high volume pump not keeping more pressure in the top end at speed but since we are running a higher pressure at idle with the HV pump more oil will be in the top of the engine at lower RPMS (before the LV pump hits the same pressure regulator as the HV is already at) so we start the run to high RPMs at a disadvantage. Oh heck I dont know what I'm talking about here, I quit.

 

THIS part sounds like you agree with me?

 

Sounds like you were in one of my cl***es. You didn't happen to learn electronics in the Navy did you?

 

And here we go again. My buddy had a BBC in a Camaro that spun a rod brg on it's 1st p*** (lousy 12 second car). He fixed it and did it again the next weekend. Took it apart again after me telling him he's runnin the pan dry. Had God check the rods, and Muhammed check the crank..........and it did it AGAIN! We took it apart at my shop this time, repaired it, and all we "changed" was me giving him an extra 7Qt pan I had. He was too ****ing proud to run his stock pan a lousy Qt over at my suggestion. Yeah, I know, windage. At 7000RPM there ain't enough oil in that area to hurt a 12 second car. Anyway it lasted YEARS after that. Point is, it ****ED THE PAN DRY. There's a formula that gives an "average" of where your oil is in an every day V-8 at 2500 RPM I saw somewhere. It's something like .5 qt in pushrods/lifters, 1.2 qts in the valve covers, 1 qt on the valley, timing cover walls, well you get the point. There ain't much left at the pump pickup, and that's just at 2500RPM. Bottom line? Put some huge valve covers, run a Hi-Volume pump, cold thick oil(SLOW drainback), and tell me the pan can't be ****ed dry? Don't ****ing believe that for a minute

 

Take a larger motor like a BBC (way bigger valve covers, and block surfaces for oil to cling to on the way back to the pan)and the SAME 5 qts in the pan and re-read some of my other posts. If it did not happen to you doesn't mean it ain't possible. Do you really think those 5 qts STAY at the pump all the time? Oil clings to rods, crank weights, cyl walls, bottoms of pistons, big tall valve covers, the valley walls, in oil p***ages everywhere. How much do you think is AT THE PUMP at 6000 RPM? If you answered near nothing with the possibility of absolute nothing, you answered correctly. If not, you'll need a bit more experience in this area. Hell, I even had a SBC in a car with a stock pan would flicker the oil light at 2/3 down the 1/4 until I ran it 1 Qt over full. Do you think the pan was running out or my oil light thought it was April Fools Day? Oh, and your comment about oil from loose brng going straight to the pan? Think again. It' gets "slung" EVERYWHERE, not just straight down

 

I never disagreed with you Groucho...Not intentionally. I was trying to expand on the point where you said, "There is more than one reason for high volume oil pans." And as usual I opened a can of worms where I would need to write a thesis to really explain it well.

and from your further posts from the one quoted it sounds like we are on the same page. Unfortunately we (I?) have hijacked this poor guys original post so now I have to try to come up with something remotely useful here...

• 4 bolt mains are faster?
• I did have a guy tell me a 1 piece driveshaft was worth 15hp over a two piece in an S-10.

 

I've had SEVERAL of my threads hijacked. Some that lead to others snaking me on parts "I" was wanting, on "MY" "want" Ads. So, we take the hijacking with a grain of ****

 

Lighten up Francis, So what you're saying is that any big block with a stock pan and a HV oil pump will lose bearings? No chance it could have been something else?

Because, for every guy that has a friend that this has happened to, I have twice as many friends running big blocks with stock pans and HV pumps that it hasn't .

Hmmm....you know I had a 56 Chevy with a 265 that the oil light would come on at idle sometimes......that must mean the pan was pumped dry until I gave her a little gas...cause the light would go out.....

Not saying that it can't happen......well yes I am.

 

Dolores-My point was it "IS" possible, and I gave a valid example. YES, that was the reason in my example, and that was my point that it's possible, in reply to someone saying it WASN'T. And because it WAS the problem with my friend, NO it won't happen to ALL BBC's w/Hi-Vol pump as you asked. But, hey, thanks for playing. PS-for every one of MY friends it's happened to, I have A HUNDRED that it didn't. Still don't mean it's NOT possible. Also, your oil lite at idle is a different scenario of mine coming on 2/3 into the 1/4 mile on a p***. I really hope you know the difference THERE?

 

Im glad we've cleared that up about the HV oil pump, I got a sbc, and the HV pump in it, i put what was supposed to be a stock pan on it, but it holds 6 1\2 quarts for some reason, im guessing thats why i havent had a problem yet, hopefully never do, I do think I'm going to go for a thinner oil though, cause im currently using 20-50 and it pegs the guage at 100psi when i open it up, and idles at 35-45 psi.

as far as mechanical theory, i deal with the battery thing almost every day at work, Autozone, customers that swear the battery is going to go bad from just setting it down on the sidewalk before installing it...

 

Chances are you won't have a problem. My argument is, that it "IS" possible. Luckily, it's not probable. There's a difference between possible, and probable

 

groucho, i agree, i think its completely possible, heard about it after i built and installed the engine, so im hoping that "stock" pan that magically holds extra oil will keep it from happening. (just in case you thought i was dissagreeing with you, i wasnt)

 

This is fact, not an urban legend. GM had problems getting the rings to seat on the "new" 265 V8. Their cure was a dose of Bon-Ami, then crack the throttle a few times. The theory behind it is, Bon-Ami is a fine enough abrasive to lightly scuff (or de-glaze) the cylinders. When you snap the throttle, the increased cylinder pressures push the rings against the cylinder walls. If I'm not mistaken, there was a post Bon-Ami oil change involved as well.

 

Whoa, Smokey, (my hero) was in that action of flying the Hump! Did he show them? Or did they show him?

Frank

 

Friend of mine did it to a rebuilt VW engine that wouldn't seat the rings. He said it completely wore out every bearing in the engine.

 

****, did it seat the rings? Kidding

 

We had a lot guy at a dealership I worked at, nice kid, his dad worked at AT&T.
I asked him how the telephone knew when I spoke English, to operate in English. And if someone else spoke Spanish, to switch to Spanish mode!

He couldnt figure it out, we let him chew on that the rest of the day!

 

My favorites are the Metric Crescent wrench, left-handed screwdrivers, ...

 

I have not personally seen it but back in the early 70s when I worked as a GM service tech at a Pontiac/Buick/Opel dealership the head mechanic who had already been there 30+ years swore that GM did indeed send out a service bullatin to that effect sometime in the 50s If i remember him correctly.You were only supposed to use a very small amount and do an oil change right after doing it. We were talking about odd fixes because 1 model Pontiac kept eating right front wheel bearings and the fix was to add a ground strap to the engine!this was also in a GM service bullatin.He started telling us other odd ball fixes he had come across in the past.He would also pull the get me a metric adjustable etc.on the new guys so who knows for sure?I got him on that one though as this was right around the time the US was supposed to be converting to metrix system I had /still have a cresent wrench that is marked 200CM rather than 6" or whatever,So when he asked me to get him a metric adjustable I gave him this one!He couldn't argue that it was a "metric adjustable "

 

Could it be possible that you have a pan from a SBC that was in a Pontiac ?As I remember it Pontiac pans held 1 quart more than Chevy did.I don't remember if this was true of "Corprate "SBC engines in Pontiacs however

 

Some people here believe it too.

 

Magically,a battery can sit on a piece of metal in a car,no problems.
But contact with concrete will kill it.

People forget two things:the battery case is an insulator,
and battery acid leaves marks on concrete.Which is probably
where the myth started.

 

I do remember "something" about batteries on cement from my auto shop teacher yrs ago. And, I also remember charging a battery, and the meter on the charger indicated a "no charge" condition. I lifted the battery off the cement, and the meter went to "charge" status instantly. This, circa about 1971, true story

 

Roothawg I think it was Stock Car Magazine that ran a bunch of articles in a series on oil issues they had an oil pan with lexan in the sides and in one article did indeed run the pan almost dry!If I could lay my hands on that magazine I'd offer copies of those articles very good info in them.This particular article was aimed at street stock racers and usually the rules were real tight (atleast out here )on what was a "stock"engine it showed the results of a Hivolume pump at hi RPMs with a stock oil pan