Never seen before a setup like this , can anybody help me how to route the brakelines on this? Bought it at nelco rods and it is for a disc /drum set up on a early a body mopar?
Looks just like a Ford valve. Do an internet search on "Ford Combination valve plumbing", you'll find a ton of pictures and information.
That is nothing but a Trouble maker. Throw it away! Look closely at it and just think for yourself. It's nothing but a manifold. A place where lines come together and then split off in different directions. In the Hot Rod world they are pointless. If you are running a dual res master as you should be what's the point of another seperation of the plumbing? Do yo plan of installing an Idiot light in your car? That's it's #2 job,,,turn on the light. The #1 is to block off fluid to one end or the other when you get a leak. I'd rather find the leak than make 5 unnecessary fittings. Just run the front line off the master down the frame to a T and to each front wheel and a single line from master to rear axle rubber hose. I never use them. They are pointless unless you enjoy headachs. The Wizzard
I'd surely avoid that one too. There are some generic Ford types sold by Speedway and other sites that are a lot simpler (possibly '70's Mustang disc/drum). The original 3-way tee can be used as described above, just block off the port to the rears and run the line from the master rearward. I've seen the rears with a Jegs-style adjustable proportional valve piped in as well. Bob
Depending on the car and master cylinder location and the type of brakes, with a front disk and rear drum you will most likely need a few additional components. Most likely residual valves and a proportioning valve.
The valve is a bit more than a manifold, otherwise they wouldn't call it a valve. It sends initial brake pressure to the rear wheels and then proportions 70% of your braking force to the front wheels. If one brake line fails it stops the flow of fluid to the failed line.
I like the stock type metering valves, but the problem is they are designed for a specific application and get difficult to use if you deviate much from the original application. When you start changing master cylinders, using different calipers, and then a different drum setup it becomes a guessing game as to which stock metering valve will work in your system. It is to bad, because the stock units have a lot to offer.
The valve(s) do match pictures of others I've seen for early Mopars, but I don't remember ever working with them, the correct plumbing, and the reason for two separate valve bodies. The larger body appears to contain a proportioning valve (at the upper end pictured); looks plugged at the other end (where metering would/could be located) and a possible pressure differential switch that may be hidden from view in the picture. (The ***embly is pictured upside down) The smaller attached part is a metering or hold-off valve . It's best not to use combination valves on vehicles they were not designed or intended for. They just add more plumbing that's not needed, and frankly are not attractive, IMO. All that's needed on custom disc/drum or disc/disc systems is an adjustable proportioning valve, along with residual valves, if necessary. Metering was not used on all disc/drum systems, and could be problematic on custom systems by causing aggressive rear brakes.
The smaller unit is a hold-off valve. Here's a quote I found: Mopar Valve Notes: This valve is used in conjunction with the distribution block. This valve was used to hold off pressure to the rear brakes so the front brakes would go on a split second before. This was also considered a correction valve for the 1970 model year. During extreme braking conditions, this valve prevented the car from getting sideways and evened out braking loads. This valve was used on all Mopar p***enger cars from 1967-70 with the disc brake option and high performance engines. We have also seen this on some drum brake applications if you have a 2 piece front to rear brake line this is the valve that connects the two pieces.
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