Hopefully you caddy guru's can help me. I am about to purchase a 61 Caddy 390 for a build I am doing. I would like to build the engine and stroke it is possible. I am looking for info on this. I have searched and haven't found much as far as caddy strokers for a 390. I al know that a 390 and 331 have the same block. I can't fing much info on a 365. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hello, first off a 331 and a 390 are not the same block. Ones got a long bell like an Olds and the other is a short block more like a SBC Chevy. The 390 is the short block. A 390 has plenty of stroke already, and man the torque one puts out is notable. Cadillacs are great engines ou tof the box. I took a 390, rebuilt it put Stude rockers and an Isky cam in it and it shreds the teeth of a trans input at will. I moved on from the "good" Saginaws to Muncies. It's in a '33 Tudor. I took an engine designed to haul around a 5-6k pound Turd and placed it in a 2500lb car. If you are doing this a stock Cad will be more than enough. Having said this if you fnd out how to get more stroke out of one I'm all ears, because hey more is well....... more. All the best, Tim
I have a 365 and two 390s ( one a 61 and the other a 63)and the blocks are the same externally at the bell housing flange. In fact I pulled the original 1956 365 out and put a 1961 390 in its place.....but keep that a secret.
Tim thanks for the info on the blocks. I was misinformed or I misunderstood. Also will a Muncie bolt up to a 61 390 block or do I have to get an adapter? If I have to get an adapter what parts do I need or where can I get them? Thanks for the info. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Bendstens has what you want. http://www.transmissionadapters.com/cad_early.htm So does Wilcap. http://www.wilcap.com/cad.html#cad350mt
I like dealing with Wilcap. As said before the 390s shred pretty hard stock. They had to push those big-ass cars up to 100 or so. A cam and good intake wakes it up a little. Compression is already up there. Next step is blower which rules but can be $$$
Thank you. I really appreciate it and all the info. I will just do a cam, rockers, and intake and some head work. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You may know this already but Studebaker adjustable rockers are a bolt in. Definitely beneficial when going to choose a cam.
I've heard that a lot but also read a thread here about someone who had a lot of trouble making it work. But maybe it depends on what studebaker parts you use.
The Stude Adjustable rockers are really only a benefit if you want to run solid lifters without adjustable pushrods. You will need to modify the valve covers to make em fit. If hydraulic lifters, no real reason to go through the trouble..
I know about the Studebaker rockers. Just have to find a set. Also may have to notch the valve covers depending on which covers I use. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
look at marcus's thread on these motors. tons of good info there. i've got two myself. a 365 stroked to 390 in the avatar and an early 59 390 (before the spin on filter) destined for my 34 PU. You can't use 365 piston with 390 rods--found that out the hard way. I found a great deal on new 365 pistons only to find out that little tidbid from the machinist on final assembly.
A muncie will need an adapter, and I run the Stude Rockers with an Isky Cam. Isky rules and are the only reason it all worked. Squeek Bell is another very good source as well. After going through all the hoops to run the Stude rockers I would not do that again. Just know you will have to space the valve covers up and out even the bumpy ones. The Stude rockers are not worth the trouble for a street car. Use a Hydraulic camshaft and put the bumpy covers on for the look. Yes I am stubborn and have solids, but like I said not worth it and won't do it again. I would build a 390 with a mild Isky Cam, 2x4 intake stock or aftermarket, headers, and a magneto. You will rule the stoplights. Just use a really good trans because the torque finds the weak links really quick. If you want a bulletproof three speed which looks old use a Bronco three speed with a Jeep top. It puts the shifter in the right spot has all the modern syncro stuff and is just about the strongest car three speed made. It's like a Four Speed Toploader in a more compact package.
What is a good 4 speed toploader that will hold up? What other things need to be done to run Studebaker rockers besides the clearance issues on the covers? I wish I could find a set.of gotha or Lyon adjustable rockers lol. I may not end up using adjustable rockers since you guys said it really isn't worth it. I might just have a lopey hydraulic cam ground if I can find one. I know Howard's will grind them. Isky also I think. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Also how would you get a hold of squeek bell on here to ask questions? Same with Marcus? Thanks. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just PM marcus. I think it's under M. Edell I dont' know squeek's hamb handle, but he's got bell housings on ebay right now. I've been lusting after one for a while but not $$$. I built my pretty much to Marcus's recommended specs and have had no problems. mild grind cam, .030 over, 1.94 and 2.02 chev valves and a stock 4bbl for now. I'd avoid the aftermarket mag's they have a bad reputation for not working. I went with the petronix upgrade and flamethower coil and it's been uber dependable. I've got the cam grinder's ifo somewhere--he has a mild and a wild for these old cad's. wild really only needed for race cars, though. to your toploader question. I'd look at small body fords--depeinding on the car you can use one out of a full size ford, but hey have a way longer tail shaft. I ran a and HEH-G code (if memory serves) out of a mustang through a crager bell housing and a wilcap flywheel for years. It worked great but REALLY wanted another gear on the highway and so I relented and put in a T-5 with a wilcap system. I'm happy with the results, but it was a much bigger pain and took longer than I'd anticipated to get the swap done. it didn't help that I grenaded the first T-5 out of the shoot by running it low on fluid and had a bad throwout bearing in the clutch kit.
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