Stroking a 1959 283 SB. Has anyone done it?

to use a 327 crank in a 283 block you need a 62 -67 283 block they are clearanced for the 327 crank. also the 307 you get from this match is not anything like the gm built 307. now this same block will take a ,060 bore with no problems. that makes a 317. which makes a good running motor. the factory 307 blocks do not have much tin in the mix so they wearout fast. the only thing worth using is the crank put it in a 350 block and you get a 327 or .030 over for 331.

 

Reath made the kits for a 352 cubic inch Chevy. .125 oversize pistons and a welded stroker crank with a 3.5 inch throw, as opposed to the 3.48 inch stroke that Chevrolet used on its 350 ten years later. The first "all out" small block that Tom McMullen built for his roadster was a 352 with six 97s.

 

i did run a 331 in a stock car and beat quite a few guys with bigger engines
short track deep gears and they pick up the revs fast
the solid cam will put out more power in my book and should not need adjustment as fast as everyone says, but i never run those on street

i had a 301 one time but could not pull a heavy car but they will rev beyond compare, they were the hot set up eons ago in a light 5567 they just would rev and fly , and they had the gears

 

Honestly, unless you're running some wild cam with 350 lb valve springs, it's not like you'd be adjusting the valve lash once a week. Keep in mind that engines like Y block Fords, Studebaker V8s, '57-'66 318s and about the first twenty years of slant sixes all used solid lifters.

 

I love these little short-stroke engines that can!

283/292/301/2 and 306.

I figure a round-bottomed 283 block can make all of these engines depending on bore. (Sonic check so you will know for sure tho)...

Remember that the early SJ Z-28, 302 engine would go .030" over so why not the 283!!

Now, bttt.

I picked up a set of 305HO, -601 heads in case my 283 goes just to a 292 depending on availability of CHEAP 4-notch flat-top pistons! And I'm going to install either the .015" or .020" thick shims to hold my quench tight if my CR doesn't go too high. Don't think that it will.

I have a set of big valve -461's which are the ORIGINAL "fuelie" head as well as a set of big valve -291's in case my cheap pistons turn out to be 1/8" overbore hi-po- stock 283 pistons like I ran way back then in my old junk301 that I'm always mouthing about!! They were from W/JCW and were 1/8" tall, 1/2 round domed, 1/8" overbore el-cheapo to the tune of $39.95 a set CAST pistons. Badgers or Triplex(??), whoever??

Anyway, my old junk301 had a coffee-canned liftered -097 Duntov in it and with new points it would hit 7500 rpm easy, a week later and only 7,000 rpm. (Z-28, aka, -142 springs here)...

I've got everything except pistons to build another 301. Badger won't make them anymore here because I've asked.

I've got a cheap new PAW solid cam that they advertise as 264/246, 108/108, .498" /.498" gross lift and needs .030" hot lash along with 1.6 ration rockers to get it up right at .500" net lift.! It's funny because the cam card say's that it is 280/246!!

I've also got a new still in the box 300-36 true high-rise Holley dual-plane intake as well as an old rebuilt 3310-2 to stick on her. I will just need a cheap set of 4-tube, long tube headers to go! What with my unlit-off 496 BB in my car now, go figure!!

I'm going to shift her right at 8,000 rpm just for the fun of it to show the Ricers just what real SBC power is like!!

pdq67

PS., about big valve heads on a 283/292 and cams. A cam with like just a .450" net lift is fine because then it shouldn't hit the cylinder wall lip at max lift. BUT check accordingly to know for sure. I figure that some of the class lift-limited roundy-round cams will be dandies here and I have looked there for a hi-po- cam.

 

Back again because I got carried away.

Way back in the day before the 327 came out and the 283 was KING, guys used to B&S them out to right a 400"s by boring an 1/8" over and stroking to 4"s

It's like the lovely Miss Dolly say's, "Like 5 pound a sugar in a 3 pound bag" sorta tight! And she should know!! He, He!!

To this day, I love Miss Dolly.

pdq67

 

I spoke with a local performance machinist/builder who had a lot of the same concerns, as some of you did, and suggested (that I save my money and build a 350) that if I really want to use this 283 that I should try to keep from putting too much money into it, so that I won't be disappointed with the results.

He said the 461 head has no alternator mount holes and I'll have to use some hokey method of attaching it. He was also concerned about the cost of new hardened seats and the lower compression ratio, which means domed pistons. And, says that todays gas doesn't make power like it use too. So I'll paying for booster or higher octane fuel.

I don't want to give up my little 283 because it's vintage 50's iron and that's cool. So I'm not going to attempt to stroke it, but I am gonna give it some performance without going crazy. The builder suggested I get a complete head from World Products. It's a modern cast head with bigger valves, hardened seats, etc. And I put a mild cam (don't know which type yet) and then a nice intake to fit 3 97's on.

Has anyone used one of these heads?

 

If I remember right they made some aftermarket heads for 305 engines that had smaller chambers and runners. I've never run them, but it would make sense.

I really don't think in a model a sedan you'll be disappointed. It dosn't take much engine to make a light car like that go. The cost of dome pistons is why I made the suggestion to mill the heads. If you cc the heads and check deck clearance, and calculate the compression ratio it gets preaty depressing.

 

Some "hokey" method to mount an alternator on it? Hmmmm.....Chevrolet managed to get by with alternator equipped small blocks from '63-'68 without using the end of the cylinder head to mount them! Mr. Gasket (along with about 1,000 other companies) made/makes a bracket that bolts under two of the header bolts that you can mount your alternator on.

 

Heathen... Good to know just in case I end up using heads that have no mount holes, like the ones that came on the motor.

Dyce, you were right, a 350 is a better option for the money invested.

 

I don't remember posting it, but I agree. It's the best bang for the buck. Parts are cheap, and the extra cubes make building power easy. You'll take a beating here on the HAMB for it though. I learned to roll with the punches though.

I still say really check the block over good with the 283, since it was a marine engine.