Hot Rods Stud welder for dent removal

I've some collision damage on my 32 that is inaccessible without removing quarter panel internal bracing & curious to know if anyone has had favorable results with the Harbor Freight Chicago brand stud welder to pull dents as needed. I know a variety of name brand units are out there in all price ranges, just needing a unit that fits my budget & 80 plus years.

 

I recently purchased a H-F stud welder kit. It seems to work pretty well for my non-professional use. Just make sure the metal is clean and bare for a good contact and a strong weld.

 

Thanks Jack, I additionally read the H-F reviews for all it might be worth, but favor comments such as yours from known users, reasonable at $90 or so, it might save the inner structure & avoid opening another can of worms, so far removed the rivets from the tweaked upright that the rumble seat hinges on as I know that needs to be correct for gap & proper function, hoping to dolly work it straight but available from UPI as a pair if all else fails. incidentally it's not my avatar I'm hammering on this go around, but rather my 32 Sport Coupe. Ron

 

I have 2 small dents in a window trim stainless I’d like to try one of the glue on kits a try to pull them out. I’d like to know if anyone had tried it….no guts for me yet!

 

I bought the HF stud gun, it sticks the studs OK but....the device that you use to pull the dent out slips quite readily, I'm going to try to find a "fix" but.....that said, maybe I didn't get the "good one" here is a three year old post from the HAMB. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hf-stud-welder-review.1293713/

 

I bought one several years ago and when I opened the package, I had the same problem with the slide hammer not gripping the pin. I took it back to the store and the manager opened about six different boxes until we found one that worked. We just exchanged items and I was happy.

 

I have one...it has worked fine anytime I've called it into action. The slide hammer can slip at times, but I found that simply re-installing and tightening the grip of the teeth on the stud usually gives enough pull to move the sheetmetal.

 

I threw away the slode hammer after getting one of these

 

It’s ok
The slide pull can sometimes ****

I’ve pulled a lot of dents out with em

 

Like the others, I bought an HF stud welder and have had no problems. I haven’t had the slide hanger not grip, and have used it on a couple pretty big jobs. For the price, it’s well worth having it in the shop.

 

I've got one. My skill level and the tool's quality go well together... We find our way through.

 

As much as I generally hate hobo freight I actually have been using a Chicago electric stud welder from there for years with great results

 

My most immediate concern beyond the bow in the right quarter is the reveal line that parallels either side of the deck lid & the reveal that flows along & down the sides of the right quarter panel, this area was pushed forward & under with several crease lines remaining after using a porta-power to push the quarters back to accommodate test fitting a new UPI complete tail pan. I see minimal relief on the quarter bow after pushing beyond the original position with the rear most body bolt removed & will do more inching my way while allowing for a degree of spring back. The original topic H-F tool I'm hoping will come into play on those mentioned reveals, although the stoutness of any stamped bead reveal I'm a bit apprehensive the studs with have enough staying power to permit sufficient pull, but will give it a try. Things are a bit complicated as the sub-rail & wheel well show minor buckling which I lightly m***age while pushing to the rear & may well involve some heat application, beyond the trashed frame horns have not found evidence of any over the axle frame damage.