Technical Stude Pickup Warehouse Find

Bob, I love that truck, man! It's cool as hell and you've done so much good work on it to get it where it is now. I've enjoyed this thread and have lived vicariously through you.

When I read the above comment it got me thinking. That thing deserves its place on the highways and byways. It'd be a shame to see it relegated to the ranch.

Having said that, I know there is a lady here in Temecula that is supposed to be a superhero when it comes to getting ***le issues worked out with the DMV. I just can't find her name right now. I'll keep looking and let you know, but in the interim, maybe another of our HAMB brethren knows who I'm talking about and can get you going. Good luck!!! Again, I love this little truck!!!

 

I'm a little out of sequence here. I actually messed with the exhaust after doing the motor mount, but I forgot to take pictures until now (got a break in the rainstorm).
When I drove it yesterday with the engine idling roughly in gear the exhaust system was rattling like crazy. Turns out that the tailpipes are hitting the bottom on the bed floor where they go over the rear axle. Also hitting the crossmember up front. On the p***enger's side the tailpipe looks like someone backed into something and bent the brackets and pipe, making it even worse. I hate rattles more than anything, so I fixed it.



I know, I know, the full-length tail pipes were cooler and resonance in the cab, etc. It's just temporary. (and it sounds like ****) Once I get the thing running and drivable, I'll redo the whole system with 2 1/4" pipe, new Smittys and pencil tips under the bumper. But for now, I don't want all the rattling and banging going on while I'm feeling it out. I reused the old tailpipe bends and hangers.

 

Thanks ccain. My buddy Jim up here said he has a DMV wizard but at the time I had already started with another clown down in LA. I'm ready to readdress that about now.

 

Wasn’t there a lady in/near Sacramento? I think I recall she retired and her son took over the business. Donna-something?

 

I drove it yesterday and was very surprised to find no transmission leaks when I was finished for the day.
But this morning I warmed it up in preparation for the compression test and....

Yep, there it is, and it's ATF. Coming out of the bellhousing dust cover. Damn. I'm not sure Lucas Transmission Treatment is gonna fix that. We'll see.

 

Those plugs and compression #s look very good for an engine that just took a nap with Rip VanWinkle!
I don't believe there is any type of trim or O.E.M. cover for the screws on the bottom of that dash "pad". My '56 didn't have one & I've never seen one. (My "pad" was pretty schnetzelled so I just yanked it)
B.T.W., I like that dash panel & wheel. Very clean looking. Gauges are great to have, but how to ad them & retain the simple clean look... there's the bug-a-boo...

 

Dang, you’ll have to pull the darn thing out I’m thinking. That’s a lot of fluid.

 

Yes. A few of my buddies & I used Donna several times & she was awesome. Then something happened... there are rumors... she was advised to retire & her son took over the business. He either didn't have the experience, talent or was advised to not be as loose with the procedures as Donna was. At any rate I used him to obtain a ***le for a Packard I bought from an estate in Oregon. It took 14 months, well over a grand and a lot my own leg work, including going back to Oregon, to finally get the paper work. Words to the wise...

 

Front seal? No additive will fix that...

 

Yeah, that puddle was really disappointing, especially since it didn’t leak a drop during all the running, tuning and driving yesterday.
I’m looking at some options, none of them easy.
Waddaya mean an additive won’t fix that? It says so right on the can! Lol.

 

Oboy, yeah... Donna's son. A friend and I both had good experience with her, but bad luck with son.

 

I need some ideas as to what might be causing the dead cylinder/shaky idle. Note that it seems to go away as RPM increases, that made me think flattening lobe with minimal valve lift.
This is what I’ve done so far:
1. Isolated the cylinder by pulling plug wires and listening to the exhaust. #2 is apparently the culprit.
2. Checked valve action - visual. Normal, valve doesn’t stick, follows rocker action. Pushrods rotate.
3. Checked compression pressure - 150 lbs. 135-150 across all cylinders.
4. Swapped plug wire with a wire from a different set. No change.
5. Removed and examined the spark plug - replaced it with a previously used plug. No change.
6. Adjusted idle mixture screws - responsive. Used old method; in until stumble, out until smooth.

Next test: check distributor cap and rotor, spray something (?) around intake manifold and carb bases.
Edit; …. I may make some block off plates for the end carbs just in case they are leaking through the throttle blades.

 

Bob, do you have one of those inline spark testers? It may show a plug isn’t firing well if that plug and another plug show the same on the tester.
Never had a plug be weak in an automobile, but fixed many a hard start/no start on lawnmowers changing a plug that looked good.
Kinda like a “WTH, let me go get a plug and try it” thing. I dunno, since you had the plugs out, I’m sure the odds of that plug going back in the same hole was slim, but?

Otherwise I’d be looking at the cap like you mentioned. But the spark tester would show a weaker looking spark on that wire if it was the cap.
They used to just have like a sight gl***, I was looking at one a bit back and it had lines on it, guessing to show a difference in how far spark was jumping.
Thinking about it, they may have had an adjustable gap to set as well.

I remember having one 40 or so years ago, but don’t recall ever using it.

Edit: let’s see if this link I copied off my phone works
https://www.amazon.com/Thexton-THE4...3149051670&psc=1#immersive-view_1678103164792

 

Bob, can't recall....you using a road draft tube or pcv conversion? If pcv I would disconnect it and see if that cyl comes back in. Oddly I had that happen with my Olds. I had the pcv hooked into a port too close to the #3 runner and it washed the cyl out.
That is a ***** on the ****** fluid!

 

Can you do a leak down test?

 

I had the same thing happen on a weak cylinder, also on a Olds, the vacuum advance chamber on dist was bad, happened to be off the intake runner to the weak cylinder, fixed that and no more weak cylinder. Good luck, I have really enjoyed your thread!

 

I think I do have one of those testers. Where it is? Uhhh….. I’ll search first thing this morning.

The road draft tube was a**** the stuff that I had to get out of the bed before I tried to drive it. Oops. The valley pan hole is open and both valve covers have breather caps. The only vacuum tap is the vacuum advance line hooked to the back of the center carburetor.

I don’t have a leak down tester but I think my buddy Jim does. I need to call him anyway to get the number for his registration guy. I’ve been holding off contacting him, I wanted to surprise him by driving up his driveway in the Stude. He has a *****in blue ‘50 Chevy truck just sitting in his shop almost finished. Maybe seeing the old Stude will motivate him.
Wouldn’t a cylinder with significant leak down also show somewhat lower compression pressure?

When I went through the distributor I used one of those little hand vacuum pumps to test the vacuum advance canister, but that doesn’t mean it hasn’t failed since I got the engine running. I will test it again.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

"Wouldn’t a cylinder with significant leak down also show somewhat lower compression pressure?"

To that, it's my experience that it's a definite maybe; It might, but not always. Maybe Squirrel or another engine expert can shed more light on that.
Also, regarding the road draft tube; On my 327 I used a method that I learned on another H.A.M.B. sight to eliminate the draft tube. A grommet is inserted into the valley hole, a P.C.V. is inserted into the grommet and routed to the carb base area. It's worked perfectly for me, no runs, no drips, no errors.

 

I scrubbed the concrete under the hoist first thing this morning, then went to town to get a drip pan and more ATF. ($8.99/qt!! - yikes) I pulled off the dust shield, just want to be sure that the torus cover bolts are all tight.
I had a nightmare last night that I had screwed up the firing order of the plug wires because the distributor turns opposite of the Chevy and/or maybe the older Pontiacs have the different firing order, like the early Olds, 1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2. Nope, it’s right. (So many weird things come to me in my dreams - like where are the bolts for the door hinges on my Morris woody? …. panic! ) They are in the baggie on the floor in the p***enger side with the shims - right where I left them. Whew!
I pulled the distributor cap and rotor and inspected them under the magnifier - nothing wrong there. I swapped the cap with the one for the Olds in my roadster anyway. I verified the firing order. I just got it back together and the rains came.
I did some searching for a 2 1/16” SW temperature gauge that matches my oil pressure gauge with no luck. I’m surprised how many people are asking $50-95 for an old faded gauge that someone cut the capillary tube off of. Dude, they don’t work if you cut the tube off…. It’s now a $10 shelf decoration.
I searched for a sender for my electric temp gauge and I didn’t find an exact match. I did find comments saying that they need the exact sender or they will be “off”. IDK. So I bought a new mechanical SW temp gauge. It’ll do for now. I’ll watch for a vintage one on eBay and at the swap meets.
I made the deal for an early Pontiac to TH400 adapter and I’m also buying a ‘62 389 that he has for sale. It’s a three hour drive up to his place and with the squirrely weather we’re having here in sunny California, I may or may not be able to get up there this week. I hope so. The engine supposedly was rebuilt but never run. We’ll see. The price is too good to p*** up, so…. Road Trip!!

 

Without a leakdown tester you can always take an adapter that will allow you to plug a air hose to the cylinder and you will hear where you leak is ( if that is the problem ) no need to rotate the motor . Just plug the hose up and with a 100 or so lbs of pressure it will push the piston down and close the valves on its own. This was a standard check on a motor that had jumped time before pulling it apart to see if it had bent valves. The cam/lifter could be worn enough to effect a cylinder and still get a decent comp. reading. Someone could have adjusted the rocker arm down and may even have a extra washer or something under the nut. This is a Pontiac motor ? they were the worst for the lifter wearing a hole in the bottom and the cam not be worn. Which a lifter is not worn through yet or it would be popping. Just a thought.

 

I thought about that. A cylinder with valves just barely opening due to a worn lobe or lifter might show normal compression pressure but wouldn’t be pulling it’s weight compared to all of the others.
I pulled the valve covers and cranked it over, watching the valve action closely. They all look like they are moving pretty much the same amount. I didn’t put a dial indicator on them but visually there were none that barely moved or didn’t move. The pushrods even twirled while I was cranking it. I thought that was a good sign. I was sure I was going to find one valve just barely moving.
The old 287 Pontiac that my Dad and I rebuilt for our first ski boat engine had a flat cam with a couple lifters worn through. I remember reading that in the early 50s several manufacturers had a tough time getting the metallurgy right when they went to OHVs.

 

How's that fresh oil looking? You mentioned a lot of sludgy looking goop in the engine when it was first cracked open... Perhaps some parts are still a bit sticky from all those years of sitting? I've had good luck cleaning out "time gluck" in such situations with a qt. of Marvel added. When it does it's job and the oil gets dark, I dump it & put in fresh oil. Works a lot of the time...

 

It’s pretty nasty with sludge. I thought about taking the time to clean out the areas under the valve covers but I put it off for now. It has MMO in it now and I should go ahead and change the oil, I warmed it up real good with all of the running last Saturday.
Sounds like I need to go to the auto parts store again…..

 

I got in the cab and held up the gauge panel to see how it would look. Not bad. The dash curves along the bottom so the panel ends up at a good angle for visibility. I positioned it where your eyes follow the curve of the Corvair down to the end of the new cluster. I think I like it, at least for now.
Putting the 2 5/8” gauges in a line centered on the divider bar on the Corvair cluster also looks good ( I forgot to take pictures) it doesn’t look so “bolt-on”. I may do that in the future.


While I was doing that I noticed how much work they put into the dash. They cut the left end off of the factory gauge cluster, then bent up a long piece with the same profile to go all the way across, and welded the gauge cluster end on to it. Then they trimmed the glove box door to mate with the new dash face. Pretty slick.

 

Wanting to get some more running time on the engine, I fired it up and warmed it up a little. I forgot that I had taken off the bellhousing dust cover. Oops….
It flung ATF all over hell. I cleaned everything up and put the cover back on. I ran it some more and started over with the idle mixture adjustment and idle speed. No improvement in idle quality.
I’m afraid that the old Jetaway is not healing itself…. It’s getting worse.

It’s just raining ATF out of the bottom of the cover when it’s running. I’m going to have to pull it out.
I need to keep it moving under its own power for a while. So for now, I’m going to put a big diaper under it so I can move it off the hoist and do some work on other projects while I gather parts and formulate a plan for this one. Damn.
I need to get my red coupe on the hoist to replace the master cylinder and swap in the new 3.25:1 gears, so it’s ready and available take to events. Spring is the best time here in NorCal for events, before the 100+ summer heat begins. Right now, the only thing running is the wife’s Corvair. Lol.

 

I loosened the steering box and took the spacers (1/2" nuts) out of the steering column support. It bolted up nicely with almost no preload. Now my legs p*** between the seat and the steering wheel comfortably. Much better.
I sprayed stuff around the carburetor bases and the intake manifold gaskets, etc. and got no change.
Just for the hellovit, I did another "pull the plug wires one at a time" test. Truth be told, I didn't do it on the driver's side once I found the dead one was #2. Well, both front cylinders are dead. #1 doesn't change the way it idles when you yank it off either. So, both of the front cylinders aren't pulling their weight. What's that about?
On a positive note, I checked to see if it was charging and - nope. (?) I looked around and found that I had disconnected the idiot light wire to rearrange some wires and forgot to plug it back into the regulator. I plugged it in and it's charging and the idiot light is working again. 14.4V at fast idle.
I found a copper oil pressure gauge line in my stuff, tomorrow I may try to hook up my Oil Pressure and Vacuum gauges. Getting to the oil pressure tap near the distributor base is gonna be fun....

 

If those are the gauges you're going to run you can get a sender for your 240 deg gauge (you get the sender for the max temp of your gauge). They're getting a little harder to find and more pricey but still out there.
You need a:
362 CZ (1/8" pipe thread)
362 AN (1/4" pipe thread)
362 AJ (3/8" pipe thread)
362 AH (1/2" pipe thread)

 

No improvement in idle quality. Could air be slipping by those secondary throttle blades Bob. They can be testy at times.

 

Don't know if this will help, but I found a local (Chicago suburbs) distributor for S.W. gauges in a tractor repair facility. They had gauges and senders in stock and made things easy. The S.W. company is alive & well @ https://www.stewartwarner.com/... F.Y.I..

 

Hey, those are the part numbers I was searching for. I couldn’t seem to find them. Thanks.

No Walt, it still shakes. That was the next step. I did remove the linkage between the end carbs in case it was holding one open. I figured that if it had an air leak I would have had to open the mixture screws a bunch but they are normal at about 1 3/4-2 turns. I’ll play with that some more.

Thanks Jack. I ordered a new one from Summit, I had to order some other stuff so I added it to the order. I found a vintage one on eBay last night, looks good, but he doesn’t say if it works. I sent them a question and told them how to test it (in case they aren’t car people) Haven’t heard back yet.

Im going up Friday to buy the adapter and check out the 389 he has for sale. If it’s good, I’ll replace the current engine and trans. I may use the heads from this engine and have them redone so I can keep my Tri-Power. It depends on the combustion chamber sizes.