Technical Stude Pickup Warehouse Find

Bob, I saved this in my favorites a while back. Might help, dunno

Wiring GM 3 wire - Idiot light not lighting | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

Nice looking welds.

 

Thanks for the link Walt, but that is addressing the 10Si w/internal regulator, I'm using the 10DN with the external regulator, quite a different setup. That's mostly what I found scouring the internet, mostly 10Si info.

 

Thanks. It was an unusual day, my eyes were working, my gl***es were clean and I got the welder setting right. Usually, at least one of the three is screwed up!

 

Bob, senior moment there I guess. Looked up an Olds wiring diagram for a 69 that has all the compnents. This might help

 

Thanks, you were reading my mind. I was going to look up a ‘65 Chevy wiring diagram and see what that looks like. Funny, all these years I’ve been deleting idiot lights and hooking up gauges, this is the first time I’ve actually hooked them up, uncharted territory for me. The oil pressure will be on the idiot light system too (with an old SW mechanical gauge as backup)
I got most of the wiring done yesterday. I removed a bunch of unused wires and some length from some that were just looped around. I’m intrigued by the unusual fuse block, although only a few of the available circuits were in use. I’ll post a picture of it.

 

Here’s the fuse panel. The fuse holders stick straight up, twist lock type, like half of an in-line gl*** fuse holder. Never seen this type before, maybe it’s stock Studebaker? My other Stude pickup had the more conventional lay down fuses.

 

Oh yea, I bet the parts store guys know exactly what those fuses are

 

I believe I would go modern.

Ben

 

Me too. I’d get a fuse block that still took the gl*** fuses and replace that rats nest. If that plastic is like most that age, it’s probably brittle and will break with vibration. It looks like the inline fuse holders that came with radios, They would last a few years then the little tabs would break off and not stay together. I doubt you’ll find any replacement fuse holders for that block except maybe at an old electronics dealer.

 

Cole Hersee makes nice gl*** fuse blocks.

 

Looks like you have to be half mechanic and half switchboard operator to fiddle with that fuse box.

"Hello Sarah, get Thelma Lou. What? Yeah, I know I have a bad ground, just get me Thelma Lou."

 

I totally agree. I had to run a few new wires in the charging circuit because my conscience wouldn’t let me re-use the hard, cracked wire but the new wire and clamps stand out like a sore thumb to me.
You push down and twist and they pop out. There’s a regular old gl*** fuse inside. It seems to be in pretty good shape. There are 12 “circuits” but they apparently only used two plus the flasher holder. I have six fuse holders.
I’ve put 12v to the system and nothing sparked or smoked, but turning the ignition key did nothing either so….

 

Yep. And you have to be 7 feet tall with long arms to work on anything on the firewall or behind the dashboard on a Stude truck. I think that’s why they designed those auto mechanics diving boards!
When I sold my other Stude pickup, the first thing that the new owner did was fabricate a clever front-hinge system for the hood.

 

I just looked at a little of the Cole-Hersee online catalog, wow, some great stuff in there.

 

LOL!
Says the man with some of the nicest "modern" kustoms around!

Ben

 

Nope. I have wished many times I had used a " flat fuse" panel in mine. Many come with a cover completely hiding them.
I do like the wiring being in the open on Studebaker trucks. No under dash ****.

Ben

 

been a while, but...


this pops at 400-460 degrees Fahrenheit...

 

I didn’t take pictures when I tore into the p***enger’s side so here’s a little “before” on the weird brakes. It looks it was a little wet on this side at one point. Didn’t get to the shoes though. The drum looks good.

 

More weirdness. It looks like the wheel cylinders are sealed to the backing plates. At first I thought it was a rubber seal and I expected them to be in the kit with the new wheel cylinders, but it turned out to be seam sealer, like Dum Dum. Black gummy stuff. It pretty much glued them to the backing plates.

With the sealer s****ed off, it came apart easily.

 

While I was messing around with the brake drums and hubs, I got to thinking. I do not like the Mopar lug bolts, never did. They have small heads and don’t seat well in my chrome wheels. Also, I have a set of Cal Custom knock-offs that I hope to use. Especially since I spent a small fortune getting them re-plated.

So it occurred to me to just screw some full thread, 1/2-20 Allen bolts in from the rear and use conventional 13/16 lug nuts, like I do when I change bolt patterns on stuff. I still need to verify that the heads won’t interfere with the brakes, but my initial measurements show that it shouldn’t be a problem.
The problem is, I have no idea how the knock-offs attach to the wheels. I can certainly drill and tap the bosses in between the lug holes but I would sure like to take a look at the instructions that must have come with them. I put one on temporarily. The internal bracket flexes enough to fit the bolt pattern. The holes in the bracket are huge and fit over even the large lug nuts.
If anyone has a set on their car, I could sure use some solid information on how they mount.

 

Could they be designed to push through the wheel center, captured between the brake drum and wheel?

After second thoughts, probably not. Doubt they would fit between the hub register and wheel.

 

Of course! Simple. I can make those. Thanks!
I’ve always liked those Cal Custom knock-offs, ever since I saw them on an ice blue mild custom ‘55 Chevy 2 dr hardtop that belonged to someone who was ahead of me in high school. The chrome wheels, 1” white walls and knock-offs just seemed like the perfect wheel combo on that car. Just after he graduated, he literally wrapped it around a pole on Lincoln Blvd near LAX. He may have been going a little fast but the city’s sprinkler had broken and flooded the street right at a big sweeping curve. We went to see it in the little impound yard and it was sad, one of the few cleanest cars around, bent in half. The hood was sprung open and it had 3x2s and a well detailed engine compartment too.
Frankie Pisano’s shortened, 413 powered truck had them…. Love that truck.

 

Yep. But yesterday I tallied up what I have in them…. way more than the wheels themselves!
Like you said, I’ll be the only one on my block with them, lol.

 

Oh, hell yes! I never see them at all these days, just the Halibrand cast aluminum things.

 

Cool truck