Not sure if I'm going in the wrong direction or putting 10 lbs in a 5 lb sack. '29 sport coupe(ster), 292 y-block, t-5, 8" rear with 3.55 posi. Boxed the frame, put in a Dagel's x-mem., both after setting up motor and frame mounts like Deet. Hanging the motor in the bare frame and setting the firewall on got me the front pulley just behind the rear of the stock front x-member. Figuring that I needed to be there to get room for the fan and radiator. In the one pic you can see the shaft proximity to the front x-mem. Knew that I'd have to cut the firewall to make it fit, but now the right side rear exhaust port is covered by the front quarter, the left side partially covered. It's never too late to cut and relocate the mounts if need be, but the A's I've seen somehow make it fit. Any suggestions would be appreciated or is this really how a y fits in a '29?? Thanks for your help.
Check out the boling bros build. They fab frames and the one used is extended 3 inches. I seen it in bakersfield, top notch work.
This was the picture I meant to add. The one with the headers looks good, except the firewall is a good 3"+ from where it's supposed to be.
Quite the project ya got going on there I would install that front pulley/balancer and check clearances.I think your gonna need more room between the front member and the pulley. Also consider the oil filter and fuel pump spacing.Not sure how wide that frame is. And dont forget that the valve covers do hafta come off occasionally for lifter adjustments. I"m over in Glen Burnie if you need some "Y" Block info/parts.Good luck.Glad to see the "Y"s getting some local respect. Oldmics
Did it post this time? The headers are SS and will be available shortly. Can't use them on this build.
I'm trying to cram a y-block in a '29 too (Roadster). I've seen the same problem you're running in to and I've decided a custom set of lakes which will go around the cowl panel will probably do it for me. Here's a question for you, how are you getting around the engine mount being centered over the steering box mounting position. Been kicking ideas around for that one for a while. As for fitting, most guys seem to stretch the frames between 4-7 inches. I'm hell bent on keeping the frame stock because I want to run the upper half of the hood on mine. I've also been looking at putting an x-member in it to make the stock rails more rigid vice boxing. I'll be running the Mercury version with the 3 speed and a banjo.
Oldmics, Thanks for the encouragement. Trial location had the front dampner on and I left just enough room to slip a belt between it and the x-mem. I have an FE fuel pump with the built in filter, plenty of room and a remote oil filter adapter. Not sure whether to try and squeeze in under floor pedals or mock in a set of firewall type from a chevy pick up. Steering-I have a '37 box for cross steer and will need some u-joints and creativity to make it all fit. A rodder-I'm working with an A-frame, but I get the hint about the 3" extension. Since I won't be running hood sides, I might have to graft in some 2x4 tubing, but that's not my choice now. I just got to go steal the neighbor's kid's radio flyer wagon, cut it lengthwise and make a setback firewall out of it! RB
I've looked at this also. If you are running the steering box near the stock location, clearance is going to be an issue between the filter and the steering box unless you plan on using a relocation kit. The fuel pump, however, seems to have enough room as long as you're not using the one with the big vacuum pump on the top. Your fuel lines should have plenty of room. As for the balancer, I have mine spaced back about 5/8" from the cross member with the balancer/pulley installed and the mechanical fan off the water pump fits behind the radiator (used a stock rad shell and piece of cardboard for mock up). The problem is the stock fan I have sit REALLY low and may interfere with the water pump inlet hose.
Greasemunkee, I boxed, then added the cross member. It's good and solid now. I like the cross steering vs. the "traditional" and I have the '37 box to rebuild. I'm using the needlebearing kingpins also. I have the similar setup in my '35 and it works out quite well. Although the steering shaft in the stock location interferes with the left head, so this will be a while. Once I put the firewall back in place, the valve covers can't come off, so a bit more cutting is required. I didn't want to cut up the front 1/4's for exhaust, but I think I might have to do that to keep it outside the frame. I like the lakester pipes.
Just to add some information (that you may already know) The thermostat housing connecting the top rad hose to the radiator is availiable in two orientations. The straight ahead style is used on the T Birds and another used for the p***enger cars points upwards which should clear most fan arrangements. Hope this helps. Oldmics
I have a '29 A roadster with a 289 Ford. I trimmed the lower flange on the rear of the front crossmember and used a recessed firewall from *****in products in Cal. This gave me plenty of room for everything. I know a 289 is not a Y-Block but I believe what I did would help solve your clearance issues. I also set the front seat riser back about 2 inches to gain a bit of legroom. I hope this helps in some way.
I'm putting a y-block in a channeled '29 coupe. I will probably stretch the frame a little bit. I don't like the engine in the car with me. Just my opinion. I like your thread and hope you and the other y-block model A guys post more pictures and info. I need all the help I can get. What transmission adapter are you using? Please keep the pictures coming.
I think I would get rid of the rear flange of the crossmember then move the engine forward. That should give you plenty of space. Pardon the crude drawing
i'm squeezing a y-block into a 34, and it's a tight fit even in there. i am using a Hurst mount up front and rams' horns manifolds, and that leaves a nice amount of room for steering. i still have to move the firewall back a good bit. it is a big motor. takes up a lot of space.
I am not up on Y blocks or Model A "space", but I agree that it would be better to move the motor ahead if possible. It just looks wrong like that, half buried in the cowl....not to mention the header problems... Of course, if it was a clone of a drag car like the Vulcans Vicky, then a setback is cool, very cool
I would set the engine in where you want it to be instead of taking up what little room in the cab area that you have . Moving it forward is a great idea but if you are going to use the sides then it will look odd I think . Depends how far up you move it . Now as for the oil filter , they make an adapter to get rid of the canister filter and then you can re located the oil filter to the firewall with a oil filter re locating kit . As for a fuel pump , a cheap stock Fe 390 fuel pump works just fine ! I had one on my Y block and worked just fine . It's a replacement if you don't need the vacuum wipers which you don't ! Now if you are still having pulley problems you could get away with out a fan if you leave the sides off . You should get enough air through there without a fan . I have sen that one done many times before . I would hate to say to use an electric fan but do what you have to . I am glad to hear you using the Y block . That have a great sound to them and if you use side lake pipes that will sound really good ! I have seen a few do the same thing you are doing at the Showdown in Pa. There is a couple guys up there running the same set up and they all used a fan and pulley set up . Just put all the pulleys on with the fan ant mount the radiator the best you can and go from there . Now I have seen the Y block set back far and works well but they had a box under the dash with a door on it to get to the distributor that way . Good Luck with the build and hope to see you in May 2012 with the Y block at the Showdown ! Retro Jim
Hood length issues: I'm stretching my 31 A for an FE so I don't have to m***age the firewall to much. I've got 4+ 30-31 A hoods so 2 will be just collateral damage with a 3" stretch/cut & paste. Movin/on
Wheelydave and Blue, Good idea, I'll have to do some measuring and see what I gain, but I think that will solve it. I left the x-mem stock, figuring it might get too weak if I cut that out. But can always weld in some thickness. Now I can sleep tonight knowing there are options. Depending on the amount, I might try and add plates between the block mounts and motor mount to see how it works first. Thanks, RB
Retro Jim, I've had the '35 there for the past three years, not sure about the A in 2012, but gives me somthing to shoot for. Tomorrow I make up plates to move up the engine, redrill for the rear trans mount and if it works space wise, thin out the x-member and move on. I'll update when I get there and add some older start pics. Thanks again!! RB
RB35, I'm not sure if you mentioned what intake you planned to use, but if it is to be multiple carbs don't forget to factor in generator/alternator placement (no option for up-high mounting). My brother had to raise his 292 up a bit in order for the lower gen. mounting position to clear the framerails due to his 3 deuce setup. Just something else to consider while you are mocking things up... Also, any additional elevation will help with the fan placement! This may be a goofy question, but, does anyone here know what the fan setup is on the COEs (I would imagine they use a higher placement for the fan - or, was the rad just mounted lower)? Anyhoo, nice project! Love the '35 too!! -Dave
fan setup on COEs is the same as other trucks and T Birds. as far as i know they use the same deep water pump cover. RB35, if you are using a mechanical fan, set up the radiator and place engine where it needs to be for proper rad/fan relationship and go from there. it will probably require you to trim the back of the crossmember down, but that's no big deal.
If you need a bit of firewall clearance you can also drill out the stock spot welds and move the firewall back. I just finishing doing this on my 29 coupe.
Spent the weekend with my "issue" and hopefully fixed it, sort of. Some extra pictures include trying and extension plate-maybe thicker plate would not flex, 1/8" did. And the relocation now requires a radiator location, which, to me was better than relocating the body. The new frame mounts have also been whittled down to a more curvy design. After setting the motor/trans in about 5 or 9 times, I've got to trim something to get that last 1/4" for a drop in motor, but that's OK. Then fill in the old holes. Getting there... RB
And a few more. I'm going to add some measurements in a future post on the off chance that anyone can use them. And avoid this. Wished I hadn't been so quick to weld in the front x-member after I fixed it.
I'm a little out of my element here but did you consider using a y-truck bellhousing for the side mount aspect? then you might be able to eliminate the other mounts for your steering box. just a suggestion, don't know if it would cause other issues. Love the engine choice, much better where we can see it out from the firewall.
Already had the car b'hsing and Mummert's adapter for the T-5, although I thought about that early on. Even had a Hurst front mount which I sold thinking I wouldn't need it, but after measuring in the '35, I was thinkiing that the rear mounts might interfere with through the floor pedals. And I'm feeling better about the exposed exhaust ports too! RB
Just stumbled on your thread. I'm also building a Y block, but for my F100. I'm subscribed and will watch what should be a fun little build. Good luck.
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