I'm making some extra copies of the articles I mentioned earlier that Just Steve wrote for Rodders Digest regarding the sub-framing, custom motor mounts, and hanging the sheet metal on a subframed, for the Big Olds build up. Lots of others have asked so I'm making the offer available to everyone. If you'd like me to send you a copy of these articles just let me know. I can stick it in the mail today. The article is a step by step, including photos, on the instalation of a '79-'83 Olds Cutlass under Big Olds but lots of the information applies to subframing in general. There is also a chart in the article that lists popular subframe widths. Lots of do's and don't and hints to help along the way.
I think CE developed the bolt-on MII crossmembers because of the strength issues I mentioned earlier. They know their engineering -- and they saw subframes on Chevy tophat frames coming apart. Their bolt-on strategy uses the strong part of that frame cross-section -- the heavy flange -- as the mounting point, and maintains the integrity of the frame rails. Makes sense to me, anyway. If it were my car, I'd go that way. The Big Olds got a subframe for several reasons: Nobody made aftermarket suspension for it. The original front crossmember had issues. I'm cheap. Had a good aftermarket kit been available, I woulda used it. Especially since I was a magazine ink-whore at the time and probably coulda got a screamin' deal on it . .. Anyway, we ended up using an '83 Olds Cutlass front end -- nice and narrow, easy to find. The entire donor car cost me $100. Only disadvantage was the front steer . . . did have to notch the radiator saddle for that. Remounting the sheetmetal is tricky, but not too bad if you plan ahead. You just have to have a way to locate the mounting points (either with a jig or measurements) before and after the original front crossmember is gone. later, Steve.
The Jalopy Journal
