sub rails for channeled car- lets see how you did it

lookin good.

 

My frame was narrow enough that I could slide the body over it. I used 1" square tubing to raise the floor 4 or 5 inches(can't remember)...





Then I wrapped it in 18 guage....

 

Excellent stuff here!
please keep them coming

 

Bump for more cool stuff

 

Metal work and design wizardry bump

 

Let's see em fellas

 

bump

 

bump, why not. this thread has some great info, please add to it!

 

Here's a 34' sedan that's channeled 5". Make a subrail to fit the contour of the ch***is then brake/shrink a set of rockers, square up the body to the rockers while maintaining the door gap done. I suppose it's really easy if you start with a car that is rusted out the first 1' from where the bottom would be!

 

This is my Model A I'm building now. I used 1/2"x1" tube for the subrails and 18ga cold rolled for the floor and tunnel.

 

Perfect!! I was struggling with brainstorming up how to channel my coupster while preserving my subrails and the original floor. One of my goal is reusing as much of the original body as possible without resorting to new sheet metal and tube steel. You did a great job handling that. This is definitely future reference material for when I finally get to that point in my build.


iPhone - TJJ App

 

nice work, thanks for the ideas

 

Great stuff!!!

Ttt

 

Why 'subframe'? I am using 16ga to create a structural floor - think 'unibody'. The seats in my modified are below the top of the frame rails.

 

Thats awesome!!

Ive tried starting that topic in here elsewhere. I saw a Rod & Custom where they did that to a 33 coupe. I want to do it to my 32 5w. This thread is making my brain work overtime and i thiink i know how to do it. I just need talent

 

Talent? Thats what the 'showoffs' have, the rest of us make due with what we got - desire trumps talent every time in hot rodding.

 

That is exactly what I plan to do, finally an example ! thanks for sharing!!! Wow! good job!

 

Very nice work, this is what I am trying to do with our build. I really didnt see need for a tubing frame for the floor either. Its going to get its strength from the bulkhead/firewall behind the seat, the frame K-member, driveshaft tunnel, and toe board. Its gonna be a combo of 16 and 18 ga steel.



When I get the inner rocker panels and the support that sits on the k member done, I will post more pics...

 

For everyone, more specifically coupe guys:
I get how everything forward of the seat goes together, be it uni-body or steel tube frame.

I've got a 32 5W and am kicking around the uni-body thing...Could a guy buy a new 32 roadster REAR floor, and bolt it in, and weld that to the body with extension tabs? The front looks self explainatory...I'm thinking too much again, arent I?

 

gonna drag this up from the depths cause it rules! so much good info!

 

also bumping this, because this is where im currently at in planning, the more info the better
awesome work guys

 

Bump for the guys that bought bodies with no sub floor what so ever and 4+ inches of rot on all your lower sheet metal panels haha.


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I used a slightly different approach than the Z bend. I used two hard points at the outside bottom of the frame rail, bolting to brackets added to the A and B pillars. Most of the body load is carried through those points.
An inverted 16 ga L-channel was used on top of the rail.

The L-channel was welded to the A pillar, B pillar, cowl and wheel housing. I bent up some more 16 gage for transverse floor crossmembers and welded that to the top of the L channel. I then closed it all out with 20 gage sheet. Old rusty subrails were cut down and used to close out the bottom of the door opening to the L channel.

 

nice to see an old thread come back up.
for you visual guys, Eastwood has a video to watch

 

Great old thread! Lots of cool builds and tips in here.
Anyone have anymore to share?

-Shiny