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Hot Rods suggestions on how to drop the back of '34 coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by general gow, Aug 2, 2011.

  1. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,581

    alchemy
    Member


    This would raise the car instead of lower it.
     
  2. where its in the frame i would be more inclined cutting the top off the c-channel, take the bends out, shorten to fit, mock up to find the correct vertical filler peices and assemble. i have flattened a 40 rear before and its a 30 min job, but i would want to keep the rivits. doing pie cuts while in the frame would suck...
     
  3. Idaho/Dave
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 625

    Idaho/Dave
    Member
    from Idaho

    my vote would be to flatten the rear cross member, no trunk floor issue, remove a couple leaves to soften the ride.you can adjust the ride height by adding spacers back on top of the spring, Dave
     
  4. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    alchemy is right on this one. You have so much arch in that rear spring, you could take 4" or so out and still have a good ride. Even if you dont want to do the re arch your self, any spring shop around here that I work with wouldn't charge much more than say about 75.00 to do it for you... Much simpler than cutting up the crossmember.
     
  5. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    Question: how do you take the arch out of the spring without elongating the eye-to-eye width?
     
  6. BlockBuster
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 52

    BlockBuster
    Member
    from SEMass

    Neighborhood guru says 'longer shackles'. Handling may/will be affected, but that's the way to go.
     
  7. The spring width will increase, but that will be accounted for by a change in the angle of the shackles. Perches on the axle remain in the same location.
     
  8. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,901

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Or, have the main shortened and the eyes rerolled. Reversed if you want to go an inch or so lower...
     
  9. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    bob, i am now leaning towards the Vern Tardel 2 inch drop shackles and reversing the eyes on the main leaf. that'll give me 3 inches or so total. probably enough.

     
  10. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    i understand that there may be a couple engineering issues with the installation of the model a member in the 34 frame. however, according to my measurements, the spring angle changes by less than a degree.

    and as for the rad, i guess we'll see. my measurements indicate that it will be close. so, i suppose i'll find out.

    when you build a hot rod, nothing is permanent. anything can be cut back out and redone if a mistake is made.

    i own the cross member already, and the stock 34 front member is junk. so it has to come out anyway. if trial fitting indicates issues, i will find another solution.

     
  11. Slick Willy
    Joined: Aug 3, 2008
    Posts: 3,059

    Slick Willy
    Member

    Did someone say beer...and chicken??:D
     
  12. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    beer and chicken at my house!
     
  13. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    I guess you have installed the model a in the front which as stated should be rethought. You can lower the front of a 33/34 by raising the center of the crossmember using new square tubing. Eastwood has been doing this for years and it keeps everything looking and fitting like it should. The rear is easy using the correct arched spring. Any good spring shop can perform the work for a few bucks. I would not cut the crossmember. My 2 cents.
     
  14. Put up a couple pics of that front cross member. The comment about the front cross member is right, it you use an A cross member you will have radiator clearance issues, also how will you mount the radiator? there are no provisions on an A crossmember to mout the 33-34 style radiator.
     
  15. Add another one for not cutting the crossmember.

    Mine may not sit as low as you would like to go, but I'm running a real tall tire.

    I didn't cut anything. I simply took a few smaller leafs from the top of the stack and placed them on the bottom of the stack. I may have completely removed one leaf, I don't remember. Combine this with the Tardel shackles (which I didn't use) and I think you should be good, no???

    [​IMG]
     
  16. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    i haven't finished the crossmember installation yet. but, if you raise the middle of the stock member with new tubing, you effectively create the same circumstance, leaving no place for the lower radiator hose to go.

    if you read my last post concerning the rear member, i have decided not to cut it, since the cuts would only produce a 2 inch drop, and i can gain that elsewhere.

    i am leaving the rad mounts in place and will blend them in to the bottom of the A member using material trimmed from the stock one.

    still trying to figure a way around the rad hose issues. but, as i said, the stock one i have is junk. so it has to come out anyway.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. general gow
    Joined: Feb 5, 2003
    Posts: 6,472

    general gow
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    dave, the pic i posted shows the 47 rear spring with 3 leaves removed already. my rear tire is a 8.20x15 which is essentially the same height as a 7.50x16.

    tardel shackles are ordered, and i may remove a larger spring to see what i get for drop that way.
     

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