Thanks man. I actually won that one by entering my dad's Torana into a local car show. I'm a holden man so it wouldn't have been my first choice, but it is a very nice model.
This picture makes me nervouswants to build batmobile Sent from my MotoG3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here is a survivor that I built in 1974 when I was fourteen. AMT's Fiat straight from the box, with a scoop made from a pen cap and added thread for spark plug wires. The rear wheels came from a Little Coffin kit that I added about twenty years ago.
I like to read questions on the basics and the answers. I'm building my first kit in years and was told by my local hobby shop guy to use "Tamiya Cement" and right now I'm pleased with it. I've never worked with an airbrush, I was fortunate to have a friend who was a pro painter to shoot mine. I'd like a recommendation for an easily workable putty.
Red putty is easy to work with, can't put it on too thick or it will all fall off. Mix it with lacquer thinner and you can brush it on. Two part bondo works good if you are putting it on heavier but you got to scuff it real good first.
Thanks, Jesse. I had spot putty (red) but never used it on a model. I won't be doing any heavy crafting, I just want to fill in things like lower valances to main bodies or possibly a little restoration work.
I never used Tamiya glue but liquid cement has its places. It's nice when you have large contact places but tube glue works better on smaller parts. Do you have an airbrush? I am no expert but I f'd up enough stuff in my day that I can give suggestions on what not to do Sent from my MotoG3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I like testors liquid glue in the sqare bottle for all basic assemblies, its sticks great and really melts plastic good. The orange tubes are not that great, but work good when fresh, they tend to get stringy and hard to work with if over 6months old. For windows and clear parts nothing works better than Micoscale brand "crystal clear" avail at most hobby shops. paints were all done with spraybomb laquer duplicolor from local autoparts store. easy to buff to a good shine, used a good krylon primer under it to stop plastic meltdown. Decals on Glidden car are lazer copies as the old originals glue had gone bad, 35 year old kit! the funnies are Johan originals with Slicks and Cady decals Just finished another few drag cars. Long winters in canada eh!
The best glue ever was ambroid pro weld. They are out of business now but I would give my left nut for a case of that stuff. If you spilt it, it would sound like frying bacon if it hit plastic Sent from my MotoG3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I do have an air brush...but no compressor. I didn't need one, a friend in a body shop did a lot for me...So far I like the way the Tamiya cement is working. It sets up fairly quickly and doesn't seem to melt (or suck) the plastic in. I got caught up in a model building craze in the early '90s and built a fair amount, but I'm always open to suggestions. Now I need to get some Microscale Crystal Clear. Thanks, guys.
This is one I built almost 50 years ago. It was a hardtop that I turned into a sedan. I was trying to build a Jere Stahl tribute car.My memory told me it was a 66 but when I found it I realized it was a 67.
Good morning , I thought would give a little bump for some Sunday models. I didn't have time to do anything new this week. So here is a few old garage builds. lol Hope they-re not re-post. So what have you been working on? And thanks Ron...
The Jalopy Journal
