Hi everyone, Does anyone know where I might find automotive wire that is really flexible, kind of like the points wire used inside a distributor? My '63 Thunderbird uses a wire at the rag joint to ground the horn circuit, and there must be a little too much tension in that area, because the one I installed about two years ago broke at the connector. I did my best crimping this time, but a wire that has more give to it might be the answer. Thanks if anyone can help! A
It depends on the number of strands in the wire. Whatever gauge wire you need look for the most strands available. Electronics stores are often a good source.
I once believed that solder & shrink tube was the best thing in the tool box. Then some aircraft pilots handed my rear end to me for claiming that They claimed the flexibility of the wire & crimped ends was of upmost importance. Why I just wonder if aircraft wire would be what you want? https://www.steinair.com/product/mil-spec-wire-16-gauge/
This stuff is very flexible, McMaster calls it "machine tool wire": https://www.mcmaster.com/wire/wire-and-cable/machine-tool-wire/ They also carry mil spec wire and have the strand counts for both. This has quite a few more strands.
Did you add strain relief? It's pretty common for wire to break right at the crimp without any or enough if any vibration or movement is present, use some shrink tube onto at least 1/2" on the wire. The shrink tube also needs some thickness, preferably at least as thick as the wire insulation. Use multiple layers if needed to get the thickness, it's important. A single thin layer won't be enough.
Used to be able to get test lead wire at electrical suppliers. It is very flexible. When I was teaching basic electrical troubleshooting we recommended grounding your voltmeter at the battery. On heavy trucks that meant you needed a long ground lead. The test lead wire worked out very well for this.
I did not. Part of the problem is that the wire is REALLY short (I could actually bend the connectors and solder them together, and I may actually do that). The wire can't extend past the circumference of the rag joint or it will catch on engine compartment structure. T-Birds are VERY tight underhood.
If the wire broke, there's obviously some flexing going on. I suspect soldering the two connectors together will have the same result even faster. Can you 'clock' the two ends 180 degrees from each other? Then run the wire 'internally' though the rag joint to gain some length?
I used a piece of radar detector coily cord to wire my lin-locs to the button in shift knob on my dual gate shifter in the Olds. The other end has a guitar plug and receiver in the console for removing the shift knob for servicing the console plate. It isn't exactly what you are asking but the point is there are a lot of electrical testers, multi testers, phone chargers, telephone cords, etc that have flexible wiring. Heck, you might have something in your tool box right now that will work. That is where this lin-loc cord came from over 20 years ago.
That's what I think I'm going to try next. I just ordered some test lead wire online and I'll try that this weekend. Thanks to everyone for the ideas; I checked them all out.
I would use a piece of flat brass strap. That's what Ford used on a lot of models. Also, make sure everything is tight. There should not be that much flex at that joint. Check the bolts holding the box to the frame and the column support at the firewall.
Yep, after thinking about this, you shouldn't need a ground through the steering shaft. Just make sure the column itself is well grounded to the body. The last year Ford used a through-the-shaft-ground was '57, everything after that had the ground wire included in the turn switch. Do make sure you have continuity between the steering wheel and the column, and the column to ground. Unless this is some weird deal because of a swing-away wheel...
It doesn't ground at the rag joint the wire carries the ground contact around the rag joint because the steering shaft is the ground for the horn. I'm thinking that a number of rigs use something similar to the strap Kerrynzl showed in post 13. This one from a rebuilder sure doesn't get fancy on the wire.
The stuff used on test equipment leads is called "silicone wire" named after the material used for the insulation. Super flexible and easy to get. https://www.amazon.com/silicone-wire/s?k=silicone+wire
On my first try, I emulated the rebuilt one pictured in Post #16. For the current one, I emulated the one in Post #17. I don't think a ground strap will work, because the ID of the eyelets for the connections need to be quite large, and I don't think I'll be able to get a small ground strap with a large eyelet. Anyway, I'm going to try the 180* loop with the test wire. Oh, the car does have a swing away wheel, but I don't know if that affects how the horn is grounded.
That's exactly what I used to make a ground around our steering u-joint. Found some small(1/4") braided ground strap. Was on the car for 20 yrs.
This is why I use non insulated connectors, and put heat shrink over the wire and connector at the ends. A piece heat shrink about 1/2" long supports the wire, and insulates the connector to make a better looking job, and stronger.
query under " nickel hinge wire" it is used for all kinds of applications and probably suited fine for what you are doing. Very flexible I use it a lot
Providing flexibility with length and curves can make life much easier for the wire entering a crimped OR soldered connection. Even those connections with thoughtfully done strain reliefs.
Here's how it came out...I used silicone test wire and shrink wrap with adhesive on both ends. I looped the wire around the rag joint to give it a more natural bend, so I think it will hold up for a long time; plus, I learned a little about making a good wire in a situation like this. Thanks for the help, everyone.
Just about anything that temporarily plugs into a wall outlet, lamps, appliances, power tools, damaged extension cords, etc, has to have "flexible" stranded wire. I must have a little bit of hoarder blood in me because I tend to save the wire pigtails along with a handful of fasteners, grommets, etc. before I throw something in the trash.
From the factory on some cars, {the makes escape me} used a flat spring brass flat strip that bridged the rubber biscuit.
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