Figured I should start a thread. I have acquired a few parts and need some technical assistance. Scored a early blower manifold off of a fellow hamber that couldn't use it. Was on the lookout for a 671 blower for a while But didn't want to pay full price for a shiny new one I kind of wanted a cast One, even used would have been good. Found an ad on Facebook for a brand new one for pretty cheap and then the guy figured out what he had and was nice enough to only Charging a few hundred bucks more for it. Gave him a deposit and went on this morning and picked it up. It's a speed master blower with a top plate and idler arm on it but no snout. I've got the manifold on a spare engine right now. So I can make it all work before I put it in the hot rod. The motor that's in the car right now is a 1957 347 board out to about 354 inches. The problem may be with the pistons as they are 10 to 1. So I may have to change those or just run very little boost for now. I need some help with the crank Attachment situation has the early Pontiac Balancer, that I'm using doesn't have any holes in it, but I do have one from another motor with holes in it to mount the hub to.pics to come soon.
Don't know much about ponchos, But sbc, I've done it a couple times, Run the 882 casting heads on 283/327's, They have a "smog" chamber, Larger, big port, good size valves... Regardless, The most important thing to know after reading To Talls Blower book, Buy Lathe turned valve locke!!! Saved my ass! I was cheap and only ran the single "service " valve springs... 7400 rpm after half a summer , a spring let go.. Never dropped, an limped home..
What's not to like? A 370 or a 389 head should put you in the right territory for compression? My sources indicate that a balancer up to 1962 should interchange.
I'd prefer to run a 2" drive also. Haven't seen any new stuff made so maybe have to search em out.the pic looks like 3" and stock intake made to work.ive got other pics saved
While you have the motor apart putting pistons in it, have a second keyway cut in the crank. Grab a crank hub which takes the place of your balancer and allows you to run a common v-belt pulley and blower belt. Hit the google button for 2 inch Gilmer belts and pulleys. If you can't find the tooth count you want, you can shave an inch off of a 3 inch pulley. Here is my old '33 with 2 inch belt. Keep us posted, this is gonna be cool. -Abone.
Hey WTB, Here are two of the best So Cal supercharger companies that have been around since the 60s and 70s. They have great services and are local. It is about a 1.5 hour drive from your location. They have a lot of history in drag racing at Lion’s Dragstrip and in the OC. Littlefield Blower Services: Located in Rancho Cucamonga, they have been manufacturing and supplying Roots-type blowers since 1974. They offer a variety of services including custom superchargers, blower snouts, manifolds, and pulleys. Hampton Blowers: Situated in Downey, Hampton Blowers is a leading manufacturer of street and strip superchargers, including 6-71, 8-71, 12-71 and 14-71 blowers. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/6-71-repairs.1336944/#post-15618903 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/4-71-score-school-me-on-blowers.1338637/#post-15650917 Jnaki No need to ship for services. They are So Cal locals and have tons of good things about their companies. Don Hampton has been involved in drag racing since the 50s and in most supercharged competition cars from coupes to FED race cars. Mert Littlefield is now gone, but his company continues his good services and name brand work to this day. Give them a call to see what they can do for you…YRMV
I called dyers and left a message But no response so I emailed them and got a quick response.And they're getting info back and forth so they can get a drive made up.
Edelbrock Model B-20 55-60 Pontiac Uses four 2 1\4 pop off valves bottom of manifold. As per catalog 1965.
Do you have a picture of it in the catalog? I'd like to see it. It does have 4 pop off valves on the bottom and I'd like to know if there's a way to test them to make sure they're in good shape.
You could probably use a thin liquid like lacquer thinner to see if there is any leakage. I expect they are fine but if there is a leak you can remove the nut on a leaker and lap the valve in just like one in a cylinder head.
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