Kicking around putting a 350 SBC into my 39 Coupe. For one I have the 350 and it only has 5000 miles on it since I rebuilt it so I know what I have. I also have an old 3 speed standard transmission out of a 61 Impala. I suspect I could mate that up to the 350 and have a go at it but then I was thinking why not adapt a T-5 from an S-10 to it instead that gives me a couple more gears. I will probably keep the original banjo with 3:73 gears in it as the rear end. What do I need to make this happen??? Thanks for any responses.
Toying with this idea myself; I have a 283 and an S10 T5 and an a-dapter plate. The plate is actually for a 235, but I reckon it could be m***aged to work. Thing is; how long would it last? Perhaps the S10 tail shaft and housing will mate up to a camaro WC T5.
Keeping the original rear end may be problematic. I think there have been some threads on here about using the S-10 4x4 T-5 for that purpose, but it is not a bolt in. Some sort of adapter or machine work, or possibly both, are required. If you use a Ch***is Engineering parallel rear spring kit, you can bolt in any number of suitable open driveline rear axles. You will get a stronger rear axle and better brakes in the bargain. Also, you can use any suitable 2 WD transmission without an adapter. Ray
If you are running an SBC, why not use the T5 that would have been behind that engine anyway? The ratios are better for a V8, and they are more likely World-Cl***, unlike nearly all of the S10 T5's.
The s10 t5s require an extra adapter because the input is longer than a standard Chevy. The camaro t5 has the standard Chevy length but a different spline count as well as the trans mount being crooked! T5 is a great way to go I couldn't be happier I went with one!
S-10 trannies usually have low torque ratings in the 265 ft. lbs. range because they are rated for a V6 and the shifter is forward. If you don't ****** it you will get by. Get the number off the tag on the trans. and google it to find out which one you have. It would be better to get a World Cl*** T-5 out of a V-8 Camaro and tip it up straight by making a mount that fixes it and using a regular bell housing. These are rated in the 300 ft. lb. range. Then you have the electric speedo issue and the shifter is farther back. There are fixes for all these issues, just how far do you want to go... Then there is Astro Performance. They can fix you up with up to 575 ft lb. A-5 trans. https://www.astroperformance.com/
got a t-5 in my 57 pickup, Ive towed my 55 g***er behind it but I drive it like an old man. But so far no problems. Got a 350 crate motor in truck headers,edelbrock carb and manifold 10 bolt out of a camaro or nova, done before I got truck. trans bolts up to any gm style bell housing. got to drill out mounting holes to I believe 1/2. Lots of how to web sites to help guide you. I don several one in a model A with a kit but frllow has p***ed away. was nice in the A. Done a couple without adaptor and you need to do a little sugery on the input shaft and so far no problems. Got a mercruiser 4 banger in the a with t-5 behind it works great. Had to get new driveline with all and search for the mechanical speedo. Also the s-10 shifter is located farther forward right where I needed it in the truck and A. D=From what Ive read you can use a world cl*** t-5 and swap tailshafts out and get shifter where you need it. You tube. I deffinately would not go this route if you are going drag racing or any type of real abuse. Then they wont last but if you want a decent od with under like 300 ft lbs you'll probably be ok.
My son lives in Vegas and I spent 5 months there last year and 8 months 3 years ago. Where are all the old cars, I might have seen 3-4 the whole time I was there.
One thing to note about Borg Warner torque ratings, especially in regards to the T5: They are for continuous-load over time, not intermittent shock load. They are stronger than you think, unless you are doing something foolish with one, like putting 400lb-ft. through it, to slicks, in a Fox-body Mustang. The only other issues that I have seen were a result of expecting an un-rebuilt transmission with 150,000+ miles on it to be pressed into duty, as if it were new.
You're right Gimpy. I was at a show one time out in the country in OH and when the show was over everybody was peeling out. There was about 200 cars there. So I waited until everybody was just about gone, because I wanted to watch. When I left they motioned me to peel out too. SO, I DID! (Dumb move on my part!) Now, I'd been using a 265 ft. lb. non-world cl***, 6 cyl. trans out of a Camaro and I'd put it through some stuff already, but I didn't think about all the rubber that was just laid down and the car was loaded with all my stuff and it hooked up! I peeled in first, sideways in 2nd and when I hit 3rd... It sounded like and ice crusher! My daughter looked over at me all wide eyed and said, "What do we do now, Dad?!" I just laughed and put it in 5th (the only gear I had left) and we drove home (30 miles) without stopping. I had another trans out of a V-8 car waiting in the garage. This car ('32 Sedan) weighed 2700 lbs. (plus 2 people and all our stuff) and the motor was cranking 465 horses and 590 ft. lbs. at that time. I found out the hard way how much those stock T-5's can take! BTW - 3rd gear is the weak point. It breaks the bearing retainer on the counter shaft on the back of the case. Now I have an A-5 from Astro Performance rated at about 450 torque in it and haven't busted it yet. I don't drive it like I used to though. But on occasion...
Probably the best source of T5 tech on the HAMB. I consulted this when I had planned to put a T5 behind my 235, still have all the pieces, but we are putting a 283 in the car instead.
Why would anyone use an S-10 T5 behind anything but an S-10. Why not use WC T5 from an early 90's Camaro or Firebird. Thats whats behind my 63 BelAir. It bolts up to an SBC bell housing and are stronger then an S-10 T5. Gary
I've been slowly shopping for a T5, and reading. From what I can tell, it doesn't matter what it came out of. S10s got WC T5s. So shopping Craigslist, I can get a "Camaro" or "Mustang" T5, 100k miles on it, for $800-$1000. Might be WC, might not. Or I can buy a complete engine + T5 from an S10, $200. Might be WC, might not. Either way I need to check the tags to find out what's really in it, and ***ume it probably needs to be rebuilt. Also, for ground clearance, the Camaro ones are ***led over, which could impact fitting it to something other than the Camaro it came from. Then there's the tail shaft (can be swapped) and shifter placement to look at.
I put a nail through one of my shoes, I can only go in circles now. Waiting for the kids to graduate from HS before I hit the road again. I have to say, I'm liking having a "normal" life of 9-5.
That's a misconception. Yes the WC is stronger than a WC, but a NWC S10 transmission is not exactly weak. I have been stuffing them into all sorts of vehicles for many years with good results. My '60 Falcon has 242lb-ft. of torque, and until recently sported an S10 T5, with no issues (it has a T56 now, and will have even more power shortly). I never drove it nicely, either. Most of the issues that I have seen have been from not bothering to rebuild, and not using the correct GL specification and weight of oil.
T-5's are not limited to just Camaros and Mustangs. One of the charts I have shows they came in Jeeps, AMC cars, Nissan 280Z, 280ZX, 300ZX, V6 turbos, both North American and European cars, various GM "S" trucks both gas and diesel, Isuzu Rodeo, Ssang 4X4, even Melro Ag sprayers. #'s range from 1352-001 to 1352-265... That's why you have to look at the tag number to see what it was rated at. T-5's are as versatile as SBCs and 9" Fords, they came in everything and will fit in everything with many different configurations.
Thank you everyone for all the great information here. Now that we discussed whether it is stout enough to handle a SBC I know it will have no problem with any of my stock flatheads. I have a decent 59AB that I could use also. Back to my original question how do you make them work with the original clutch and brake pedals or do you need to convert to under slung pedals and a MC on the firewall. Thanks again.
I used a '37 Ford pick-up pedal ***embly under the floor in mine. I don't care for hydraulic clutches, so I made a simple bell crank and linkage to a mechanical throw out bearing in a stock GM bell housing. It would probably work the same for a flathead adapted to a T-5. Sorry about the SBC stuff.
As others have said, if you are new to T5"s it would be good to read all about them here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-ultimate-t-5-article.171291/ 5 gears are neat but they can be even neater if you tailor them to YOUR driving habits. There is a wide selection of gear ratios available and almost everything interchanges. It is definitely not a good plan to just get a junkyard unit and bolt it in a car. You should figure on at least going through it and renewing worn parts. This is best done by working with a reputable transmission shop. They will be familiar with all of the latest part numbers and usually have them in stock. There is one mod that some may not be familiar with and that is installing 2 tail shaft bushings in series. Especially if you have a lot of hp. Another thing concerning a T5 behind a late (8ba) flathead block, You can redrill an SBC or Chev Lakewood bell housing to fit DIRECTLY to the flathead block. This saves having to adapt everything. Everything behind the block flange becomes Chev. You can even use a Chev flywheel by plugging 2 holes and redrilling if you want. Somewhere on the HAMB or Fordbarn early V8 there are a couple of pics of a cross member/belly band that will keep the original banjo rear end with an open driveline with NO mods to the transmission. This requires some fabrication skills and tools, but no machine tools.
David Gersic, Camaro and Firebird T-5's are tilted due to the late model bell housings. Just use an earlier bell housing to eliminate the tilt. Gary
I read somewhere that the oil fill plug is also moved on these, to keep the fill level the same despite the tilt. I don't know how much or if it's enough to matter.
Even if that is true, there is a spec for the quan***y of lube required. It should not be difficult to insure the specified amount is in the trans. Ray
Yes it matters. There are two filler bosses on the side of the case. When the case is stood up straight you have to drill and tap the upper boss to maintain the correct oil level, otherwise the oil level is a little too low. Be sure to purposely block off the lower one so that you don't forget and remove it by accident. Don't ask... The trans is tilted 17* toward the driver in a Camaro for ergonomics. If you get a chance to sit in one, you will see that the shifter is conveniently close to the driver, because the seat is low and the trans is high in the car.
You can get around drilling the other boss by installing a street L pipe fitting with a plug in the top. This will raise the oil level to the proper level when filled to the top of the L.
The Jalopy Journal
