The 32 has been dormit for a while, but over the last couple weekends and today, I got some pretty good work done. Both doors are now patched on the inner structure and the lower door skin. I will post pictures soon. Today I actually rolled it out side so I could clean up the garage. Next step is finish welding the door skins, then fill a few other holes and fix a few body cracks. My goal of having it drivable by the hamb drags is looking a little bleak.
Right Door. Panels and other repairs fitted. All welds need to be finished and some hammer and dollie work needed.
WOW!!! What a resurrection! Hard to believe that it's the same car. As a point of reference for a future project, you said that the patch panels needed a lot of work to make them fit. Did not they come from Tom Bay? If I recall, he came highly recommended on here for the best made.
The patch panels are from Tom Bay. The cowl patch and the quarter panel patch werent long enough to mate up to the rocker correctly. Easy fix. The quarter panels where they mate up to the reveal around the rear fender openning isnt quite right. The reveal is about 3/8" too wide on the patch panel. Fairly easy fix. The fender well patch is good. Door skin patch is good. Overall the panels are good, just dont expect to put them right in. And they are the best available.
Cool progress. Are you going to dip the body or what? This is a cool shot...makes me wish I had kept my '28 Tudor...sigh.
^^^^ not sure about dipping or blasting the body. I might use elbow grease, and try out this new PPG primer. I brought my 29A out for some photos. That is about as artsy as i get.
If you have access to a blaster that can do the job without warping the panels I would have it sandblasted after all the metal work is done and then sand it down with 150 grit prior to a good epoxy primer or PPG DP. That is what was done to my Brookville 3 window. If I were redoing the same thing I would DP the whole thing inside and out and just use Squeeg's primer on the exterior only.
Check out wet blasting. Low pressure, low heat, low dust, low waste. I'm doing my T ch***is next weekend and the body a few weeks after. Sent using the NEW Droid HAMB app from atop my toilet.
Got a little more work done today. I removed all the rotten wood (which was all of it ). I repaired the 3 bullet holes and a few cracks in the body. Ordered all the wood from Tom Bay, hoping it arrives this week.
Got a little more work done today. I removed all the rotten wood (which was all of it ). I repaired the 3 bullet holes and a few cracks in the body. Ordered all the wood from Tom Bay, hoping it arrives this week.
this is coming along great. i hope you are able to get it far enough along to have it at the drags. i'd love to get a chance to see it.
Very cool build! Sorry I didn't find it sooner. My next project will be Flathead powerd, we can swap Y for flat advice. lol
Deal. I just heard your 338ci y-block. I want mine to sound like that. I have a 292 truck motor waiting in the corner.
I spent 2 days sanding and wire brushing the body. I will spend a little more time on it to get it cleaner, but I don't think i am going to blast it. Thoughts?
What you have there looks pretty damn solid. I wouldn't have any qualms about blasting it although I would have someone who knows what they are doing do it. It's a good investment to absolutely rid that car of any rust and the only way to really do that is by blasting with that deep rust discoloration. I've used that phosphoirc acid treatment on wheels and it really does rid the metal of rust. I'm just weary of treating it right then painting over it. Blast it and be done. Great work so far!!!!
I gotta agree with JJ. The inside is as important as the outside, and wire brushing the inside surfaces will not be fun. If that were my coupe, I'd be monitoring every step of the blasting process personally. Or, maybe just have a door or other small piece done first, to build your confidence. Very nice project. Good Luck!
You need a bottle of PPG metal prep to clean the surface rust off 100%. If after that you have any pits that are black and have spiral tails etc, that you usually do a small wire wheel gring to get out. It has to be really really clean or your primer will bubble. Its much easier to have it blasted, then metal prep scrub it before primering. Been there done that