Good Morning to One and All, I am a older Hot Rodder. Started a T-Bucket when I was a Teenager. Never finished it. Probably good that I didn't. Why ? I had a Aluminum Head 427 Engine in it. The L89 version. Since then I have been heavily involved with 32 Fords. I have a 32 - 5 Window at the moment I am riding the fence on about selling it. It is a very traditional hiboy if anyone is interested. You can see it on Instagram. Ok - enough of me and history. I have started a T-bucket project. Metal 1922 Front Half of a Touring Body. Es*** Frame rails. 401 Buick Engine. 37 Tube Axle. Halibrand Wheels. I have collected almost everything I need. Just a few items left. What I want to ask You fellows; .........What is the Very best Steering Box to use on a T- Bucket now days. Years ago I had a Corvair on mine. But I know there has been a lot of advancement in that area since the 60's. And I'm sure there are a lot of fellows out there that are extremely knowledge when it comes to building a T- Bucket. Much more than myself. So if some of You fellows would chime in and give me some real good up to date advice on selecting a steering box ( and why ) for a T- Bucket I would be much appreciative. Thanking You All in Advance. Sincerely, Bernie
This might become a very interesting thread. Don't think there's a "best". Depends on what you want to use. Or can find. Nothing wrong w/a 'Vair box - the Al ones are lighter weight & shine-up nicely, cast-iron ones have a bit more strength, but not needed on a light-weight T, when reversed work well for draglink steering. OEM Vegas work well for cross-steering. Both are small & look good, plenty strong for T-Buckets. You can use near whatever you want, choice may depend ultimately on the era you choose to build. & of course, availability of "real-estate" on/in the car. Just how, if at all, "traditional" do you want this build to be? While not for here, an R&P turned sideways for a push/pull situation could work well too. Most'll ***** to high-heaven about that, but The Unceretain T that so many worship & adore, used it, so I guess that'll get a p***, too. ;D. I've been looking for an Alum version of a Ross box similar those used on Crosleys, but haven't found out what it is - yet. Going to put the build thread here, I hope? Marcus...
I'm pretty sure this is a Vega Box and in works fine in my 27 Roadster. This was in the fabrication/clean up phase. Note this was a Speedway Motors kit org purchased in 1996 that I bought uncompleted two? years ago. I haven't driven it a lot but it goes straight down the road at speeds in excess of the posted limit nrgwizard was pretty much spot on with his suggestions.
I'm using a Borgeson standard Vega box in a cross steer setup on the Whatever project. Borgeson used to list a reversed Vega box for side steering.
Thanks fellows for chiming in. I really appreciate that. My question was to general and I apologize for that. The steering box will be mounted underneath the floor of the body. The Steering column will be at an approx. 30% angle from vertical. The drag link will enter the very low portion of the body on the Drivers side of course. The Drag link will connect to the Drivers side front spindle arm. So cross steering is totally out of the question for what I'm doing. This build will be a late 50's to 60's style of a T- Bucket build. So with that info. what do You fellows suggest would be the best and most bullet proof box. Boxes to consider I suppose would be a Reserved Corvair, Vega, Mullins/Borgeson, Mustang, Old Milk Truck, 40 Ford. Or is there something out there that is brand new and I don't know about it ? Thank You all in Advance. Sincerely, Bernie
What nrgwizard said. He covered all the salient points of typically used boxes for this type of build. Some also used F1 boxes and VW bus boxes. I have a dislike for R&P on solid axles, but they have been used, too. About the only thing I can add, since he covered it is that you are using some interesting components. They run the gamut of OE steel body and Es*** rails which are early to Halibrands, which are late for the HAMB. The Vega box is most commonly used in modern builds. Steering was almost always a box on the frame behind the engine. The vega is just behind the radiator, as shown. So, with your new post, that is out. If this is going to have a box under the body, it doesn't have to be vintage. It could also be something vintage out of the ordinary. I've seen some guys here that fab up their own steering arms. What I'd do is to check what is typical 'throw' left to right at the point where the drag link you want is going to connect, and then compare that to fairly light steering boxes of the era. See what matches up and has rebuild parts still available. This is if you feel the need to reinvent the wheel. A corvair will work and has been used a lot when reversed. There are china made repops that Chip @needlouvers will not use, and Flaming River ones that are double the price but quality stuff. Here's a picture of one I looked at about a month ago with the Corvair under the body. The three bolt triangle is the mount. I'd guess this is covered in the plans you can get through https://www.tbucketplans.com/shop/ which is probably something that would be useful even if you don't use that specific bracket. If you are going with a name brand axle, spring and suspension components, it would be easier to get the whole package. If you are going to fab all that, the plans will be a major help in figuring stuff out and discuss your choices. As you can see, this location doesn't even need body notching.
Thxs again RodStRace for chiming in. OK - I will get more specific. I'm going to use a 1919- 22 Front Half of a Touring Body. Most probably Es*** Frame Rails. Similar to a Model A but a bit stronger and more unique. I bought those in the 70's when I lived in Phoenix. 401 Buick Engine. Now here we go. Front Axle is a 37 Tube Axle. Suicide front end. You being from Calif. may have a clue of what I'm doing. I am going to duplicate TV Tommy Ivo's T- Bucket. With just a few minor changes. It will look more like the version when Bill Roland owned it. I have always liked that T-bucket when he owned it. I have already bought the Injection Unit and the Weiand Drag Star Intake and Weiand Valve Covers. Valve Covers were the hardest to find. Will use a Automatic instead of a LaSalle Box. Open Drive Early Ford Rear End which I have. So bring up images of Ivo's T-Bucket. Look at his Drag Link going thru the lower portion of the metal cowl. Look at the angle of the steering column inside the body. That is what I will be doing. So in Your professional opinion which steering box would You suggest. I only want to do it once. I want something that works really well and is bullet proof. Thank You in advance.
I'm no professional! I just enjoy the things! Heck, the one pictured is one of 4 I've sat in, and it's the first I sorta fit. Newbie here. If you are closely emulating a specific car, choose those components. https://fuelcurve.com/ivo-t/ https://digital.modernrodding.com/i...heres-an-equally-impressive-tribute-t-coming/ Was doing a search and saw you are new over on T bucketeers too. Between there and here, plus your internet skills, you've got this! Here are some more threads from here. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/pictures-of-traditional-t-buckets.158410/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-bucket-of-ugly-a-de-uglifying-thread.824491/ https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-about-some-love-for-the-t-bucket.1229552/ Hope you have a few hours and something to drink!
I’ve seen ‘60’s Econoline and Dodge van boxes, VW bus boxes and also early Ross steering boxes used. I think the Dodge might be a bit clunkier the way it mounts and the VW has a mount that rotates making it easy to adapt and mount. I don’t know if Borgeson ( made in USA) has a Corvair box, but personally I’d stay away from any of the Chinese boxes.
Since you tightened-up the build-parameters, incl the box location & style, fordors nailed it. RSR gives good advice too. On any box, check the position of the pitman arm & rotation, might make a difference, or you may have to reverse it. 2 other boxes could be the late 40's ford pu, & later early 50's ford pu, although iirc, the arm points down on both. Another box could be a ~70's BMW, or ~60s->70s mopar A-body. ACVW bus(& maybe bug) would be the smallest intrusion into the interior, 'Vair is the next. ACVW bus box body can be turned down in lathe & a split mounting/clamping-box made that'll bolt to frame while allowing any position for column & hold the steering box when clamped. Slick way of doing it. Seen it done w/other boxes. You could also use an acvw bug box, but the mounting might require thought, if you don't use a split-mounting-box. On almost all boxes, the output shaft is splined, & the pitman arm internal splines have at least one that is "double-thick", for oem-correct-location-building-quickness. Easy to work around, use a nice sharp 3-corner file to cut the fat-spline in two long thin ones, or a small grinder(porting bit) to remove it completely. Can then position it in any location splines allow. Not mentioned, w/a *tube* axle, you use a 4-bar. It is traditional, & causes the least stress on everything. Since you want it under the body, watch your ground clearance, also how much it protrudes into the ****pit. Very little room at either location. Most of this type-mounting had almost no ground clearance under frame, & for inside the body, the box was mounted on top of th eframe, w/a small cover over it since it was almoast completely thru the floor. Depends on what you're willing to put up with. Total Performance had a very nice Builders' Book, full of patterns & dimensions. InstantT was another one to emulate. Neither would take much altering to get the Ivo-Look. What yr Es***? I'm familiar w/the 28-29. If those, then too bad you're not going to utilize the Es*** splayed rear springs. That was a unique & useful attribute, as was the thick shaped frame. Ivo's Look will hide almost all the frame. (btw; the box I referenced earlier is unsuitable for almost anything other than an ultra-feather-weight T. In my case probable front weight will be ~300lbs total, maybe 500, but I doubt that much). Marcus...
Do you want the pitman to point up? If so, I suggest an early Mustang box with the shaft solid to the box, ala’ older Fords. Might make your mounting of the column more secure. Dis***emble it to cut the end of the shaft to a perfect height and put a taper and threads to accept the common wheel adapter (no welding needed). Maybe Borgeson might repro them?
We know each other. I forgot Your first name. Sorry about that. Bernie here. Anyway early Mustang with the solid shaft. What years of Mustang would that be ? The solid shaft your talking about >that would be the steering shaft coming up thru the floor to the steering wheel - Correct. If so - yes I could see it would be more stable for a T- Bucket application. Do You happen to know the ratio of that box. And Yes Pitman Arm will most probably need to point Up. Good to hear from You Alchemy. Hope all is well with You. Thanks for chiming in. Bernie ( Look at Ivo's T and see if You think that Mustang box would be a good candidate for it ) Thxs.
The solid shaft Mustangs were the 64 thru maybe 66. In 1967 the manufacturers started getting more safety conscious and made the shaft splined at the base. The column had a rag joint and a collapsing shaft in it. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...thAMViktHAR3oGggeEAQYAyABEgJ7-fD_BwE#overview Not sure on the quality of this one but at least it shows they are available. Might be like the Vega boxes in that the cheap ones are pure junk and you should only by from a trusted source. - Jeff
If you need a rebuilt box - yours or an unknown - you could do worse than LaresCorp.com . They do good work. Marcus...
I have used the VW Bus boxes for years, they work great, but getting pricy with the value of those Vans.
I used a mid '50s Ford pickup box, because that's what I had on hand mounted above frame, because that's where it fit best
Hello Marty, Thank You very much for chiming in. I really appreciate that. I have read many of Your post throughout the years. If possible I would like to speak to You over the phone. I can send You my phone number or I could email it to You. What ever You think is best. Again, Thank You Very Much - Sir. Sincerely, Bernie S.
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