Hot Rods T Bucket Interiors

And it's even easier, when the fuse box is under the seat.

 

Nope. Never had a problem with glare. I'll mount mine in the dash the way it's been done for decades.

 

When I wired my '32 dash, it was so easy to wire on the bench, then with the same color wires I installed a junction block on the firewall and hooked up my dash wires to it after dash was installed. I just left the harness long to the gauges, and when they were installed,terminated them at a junction block.
More room to install block and run the other wires without the dash in the way too.

Worth it to figure a removable gauge panel

 

My own looks a bit more Italian with meatballs. LOL.
Working for 55 years though! Thats nice as well

 

Thanks Dana, The more I do , the more I learn, and try to do projects neatly.

 

VERY nicely done. I was considering using this:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Dash-Harness-for-Mechanical-Speedometer,2357.html

 

Thanks, When I did my '32, I used a EZ-wire kit.
I wired the gauge wires to the junction block, then with the excess, color coded of course, I used that excess wire to make a harness with the dash laying on the bench and of course I had to have music and hydration while doing it!
I don't see the need to spend the $98 when all you need is a few crimps and wire ties in addition to the wire you cut off the harness. Spend that $$$$ elsewhere!!!

Chances are that their spacing and run will not fit as well as you custom making it to fit your gauge placement.Also, get the harness made, then install the dash or gauge cluster, then run the wires to the junction block, then terminate so everything runs nice and neat.
If you notice in my pics, I ran two separate harnesses to the dash, don't remember why now,(don't have truck to look) but there was some reason that way ran cleaner..
Doing it this way, you have the advantage of removing the dash easily if you need to and re-installing it with out weird gymnastics, and a spaghetti mess of wires

 

BTW, I used marine hardware for things like the junction block, etc.
Our Ace hardware has a marine section, but I may have bought stuff from West marine also.
Check out Blue Seas Systems for some good marine electrical hardware,fuse panels,etc.

https://www.bluesea.com/

 

Yes, that $99 price tag was an issue. But the idea is good.

 

Good source for high amp fuse holders and breakers too

 

Since a "T" bucket is, electricity wise, pretty basic; you don't really need a fancy harness and fuse panel with the mounting and extra wiring involved. I have used a headlight switch with an attached breaker, an inline ATO fuse off the switch for tail and panel lights, another inline fuse off the battery terminal on the ignition switch for the brake light feed, and if you need signals one more inline fuse off the accessory terminal. Simple to wire and keep track of. Suppose, if you get anxious about this stuff, you could put a maxi fuse or fusible link in the main power feed.

 

I've been looking at my Rodder's Journal issue featuring the clones of Norm's T Bucket and I've been studying Mr.Mac's interior shot. The side panel's and door panel look like something I could at least give a try. It looks like the material I found: https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=13535168902
could be attached to 1/8" Luan and attached as per Mr. Mac's interior. The bottom piece will be 3" or 4" foam on 3/4" marine grade plywood with holes and webbing. Back to basics.




Looking at the Speedway interior kit instructions, https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/tbucket_interior.pdf , I'm considering a 3" foam back piece covered with the same material as above, on Luan and attached to the back of the body with: https://www.itapestore.com/3m-dual-lock-sj3871-by-the-yard.html , instead of velcro.

Doing my interior this way will take full advantage of the extra interior room I'm paying for in the stretched body. I think if I take my time, which I have plenty of, it'll look pretty good.

Oh....... all in black.

 

Just thinking out load but I really like the look of the curved seat back but was thinking with the curve on just your one side do these seats have you always wanting to lean to the inside of the and if you have a passenger they would be leaning toward you.
I think a bolster in the center may be something to think about.

 

I plan on making my back piece with a very slight curve. The back piece in my old T Bucket was basically straight across and leaning inside wasn't an issue.


Of course, by limiting my passengers to females, leaning closer wouldn't be too bad.

 

I like the look of Mr Mac's interior too! Go for it Fred, you won't be sorry for doing it!

 

Just don't pick up the bony ones.

 

Good planning!
I will suggest buying more material than needed, and expecting to do at least one trial run. The door would probably be best. Small and fairly flat.
Develop the skill and make mistakes on that, then do it for real. Work up to the full length driver's side.

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/door-panels.html

http://route66hotrodhigh.com/DoorPanels.html

Pleats are cool and timeless, easy to lay out.
Don't forget diamonds, though. None other than Tony Nancy did this one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vinyl-Uphol...d=122018811466&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042

 

Note that both of the Red interiors you posted have piping or a bead attached at the top of the panel.
You could have a local shop sew these up for you to attach to the panel after it's face is done. Maybe your supplier will have it by the yard too.

 

I plan on keeping it simple the first time, so my panels will be straight and smooth.

 

A pocket on the driver's side.
I could see this being useful for small items (phone, tire gauge, etc.)
It could be placed next to your hip so it would be more hidden and allow a spot to grab the seat bottom to flip forward.
You can see it's just a hole sut into the panel, the upholstery cut and fitted to the hole, and another piece of material attached behind the hole to form the back. then an elastic is sewn into another section of the material and then attached to form the front of the pocket.


Here's another with pockets as it got made. I refuse to post the pics (dash), but the pockets might be useful.
http://www.catalinacustom.com/showc...e_gallery_street_rods_23_ford_t_bucket_02.htm

 

Piping is simply the same material wrapped around a flexible center cord and sewn. it can be attached to the covered edge at the back of the panel. Simple to add the finishing touch to the top edge of the panel. The hardest part is firmly attaching it. Staples tend to poke through the backing and out the front upholstery.

 

Yes, I know what it is, but it's something I'll try later. For now, K.I.S.S. Sometimes, I forget that simple phrase.

 

Just tossing out ideas for you and others!
K.I.S.S is wise, especially when the alternative is 'mission creep'!

If someone is also using properly spaced screws to hold the panels (don't forget to 'glass in the wood backing strip or blocks) , a second strip of backing board could be attached to firmly hold the piping/welt/bead.

I wish Chip would visit and explain this stuff. He's got a great background for this thread.

 

Thanks. I forgot about that.

 

Fred save up some $ and have the interior done by professional. I did. You are a welder not an upholster. The upholstery is something that jumps out at you. If it isn't professional looking your bucket is second rate. You can skimp on chrome and custom paint but don't skimp on upholstery.

I really like the below orange rod interior if you want comfort and a '60s look, but fuck me what do I know.

Rebel

 

My welt was stapled on independently of the side panels. Makes for a nice uniform top edge w/o struggling to line up separate panels to the edge. Having a functioning door will require a little matching, I wouldn't think it would be too bad this way though.
Just another way to do it...

 

I'm going to remember that. Thanks for the motivation. It reminds me of what my boss at the place I built my previous T Bucket said, when I asked if I could use a corner of his warehouse for my build.

"Sure, but those guys are professionals. You can't just up and build a car."


Consider THAT ^, pushed. And if I fail, I'll dust myself off and start over. I'm kinda programmed that way.

 

I think you will find it easier than welding.

 

I had a rethink on the panel and seat upholstery. Considering I'll be folding material over some curved sections and stapling or gluing to Luan, the previous 1/4" foam backed vinyl would be too thick to staple securely. So, I found some marine grade vinyl that doesn't have a foam backing and has flex built into it. I have edited the above post accordingly. Here it is: https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=13535168902
This way, I can glue foam to just the Luan and then roll the material over the edge and glue it down to the back of the Luan. I got the idea from "Stich's" thread on door panels.

Another plus, this vinyl is a lot cheaper.

 

Peach, I'm having a hard time Google searching welting that thick. Did your upholstery shop make it or do you know where it can be found?