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Technical T-BUCKET PROJECT

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by maynardc69, Feb 26, 2016.

  1. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

    How deep are thise rails? It looks like it might be a TT or AA frame to me. If so, try to save those rails for sure. That kick up might need to be done over.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  2. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,477

    Squablow
    Member

    The body is definitely workable in my opinion. It may be pieced together, but they've been getting pieced together since the 50's, I think the famous Kookie Kar was a cut up touring body.

    The bare rails, rear crossmember section holding the spring up, wheels, axles, and maybe wishbones and other bits all seem like they could be used, not sure what that engine is, but this is a start over from scratch type build, not a take over where they left off type. I would not trust anything the previous owner did.

    And price would have to be under a grand to make it worth it, maybe if it has a ***le a bit more but not much. It's a collection of parts. It absolutely could be built, it could be a great rod, as long as you get it for the value of the collection of useable pieces and are willing to start over from bare rails for the build.
     
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  3. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,937

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'd honestly have to say that the part I like best is the body. Obviously it's ***embled from pieces from at least three different cars but it has a lot of character.
    I'd as was suggested on the first page and stage it in the garage with it setting how you want to end up having it look before blowing it all apart and then come up with a plan on how to get it to look like you want.
    One thing, nothing has to stay the way "they" did it. You can and probably should strip it to the bare frame. measure the frame for square and twist and then check for cracks or breaks.
    Then do your homework and build yourself a ch***is that you can feel comfortable that will be safe to drive down the road.
     
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  4. maynardc69
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 16

    maynardc69
    Member

    volvobrynk likes this.
  5. maynardc69
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 16

    maynardc69
    Member

    patmanta likes this.
  6. phat rat
    Joined: Mar 18, 2001
    Posts: 5,078

    phat rat
    Member

    Reminds me of an old saying. It wouldn't take much to fix it. Just jack up the radiator cap, drive a different car under it, lower radiator cap and you're done. The Kookie Kar was the front half of a touring car
     
  7. maynardc69
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 16

    maynardc69
    Member

    as soon as I can get it in my garage I will tear it apart

    Sent from my SM-N910V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  8. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,587

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Thanks looks like a Dana rear end, right?
    And that rear kick up looks stout, and if the welds are as solid as the set up looks too be, and it's straight, I would change the small bracket to two fish plates on the side of the rail and the square tube.

    To me this looks like salvageable and possible to build a solid frame. But it needs to be a square and flat frame!!!
    The front of the frame could be dressed too look a little better but a spring on top axle or just moving the spring hangers forward on the bones would help proportions.
    And with the bones brackets bolted on, moving them back should be easy-peacey.

    Maybe this for a thought, run spring perches in the axle like early axed and run tube shocks from the current spring perch? If this make any sense.
     
  9. maynardc69
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 16

    maynardc69
    Member

    pretty sure is a 8 1/4 mopar.

    how do I ***le this?

    Sent from my SM-N910V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  10. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 3,059

    cretin
    Member

    It's clearly a full project. Complete tear down and rebuild. But, all is not lost. I'm in the middle of a Model T project that started that way also. You can see the link in my signature line if you want to see it.
    Cut pretty much everything off the frame, make sure its straight and square, redo all the brackets, and you can get to a roller relatively quickly.

    Can you see any numbers stamped in the framerail?
     
  11. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

  12. maynardc69
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 16

    maynardc69
    Member

    I am leaning on parting it out. what would you sell these parts at?

    body and trunk
    8.25 rear end
    split wishbones
    drop axle
    frame
    wheels and tires

    Sent from my SM-N910V using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  13. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,004

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sell it whole to the next guy. You'll be better off.
     
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  14. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,882

    patmanta
    Member
    from Woburn, MA

    Yeah, if you have decided that this is not your car, sell it whole or you're going to have a junkyard for months trying to piece it out.
     
  15. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,477

    Squablow
    Member

    The body is rough, but it's neat, I'd think you could get $400 or $500 out of that. I don't know anyone looking for that particular rearend, maybe $50? The axle is not dropped, it's just a regular I beam, but it's got brakes on it, maybe $200 or so for the axle with the brakes and bones. Frame is very chopped up, I feel like you'd be lucky to get $50 for that. If the tires aren't weatherchecked and they look safe to drive on, you should be able to get $300 for that set of wheels and tires, there are always guys looking for cheap used wide whitewalls.

    So I'd say about a grand, give or take.
     
  16. maynardc69
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 16

    maynardc69
    Member

  17. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,477

    Squablow
    Member

    I think that's a fair price if you're going to part it out. The wheels should be an easy sell ***uming they're decent, and I'd leave the brakes and spindles and bones on that axle and sell it all as one, once you sell one piece, it'll be harder to get rid of the rest.
     
  18. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,788

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

  19. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,788

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Better take it. New ones go for less than $400
     
    Martin72 likes this.
  20. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,339

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

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