T bucket style body any one built their own?

Couple of quick thoughts;
Think Track T, not Fad T!
For those of us wanting to use the sheet metal Henry provided, widening out a T body at the cowl makes for much more foot room (helps those of us with big feet holding the believe that REAL hot rods have three pedals). Leaving the body shell unchanneled on top of frame rails running out under the body sides (think T or A body and 32 rails) and dropping the floor to the bottom of the rails allows a much lower seat height and/or increased legroom (tubular space frame and full belly pans would do the same thing). Using deeper frame rail sections (6" AA frame as opposed to 4" A frame, for example) makes for a more rigid frame and allows even lower floor. If you're worried about using a K frame to increase torsional rigidity, just run the straight crossmember under the front edge the seat behind the foot wells and run the legs of the K rearward under the seat.
Of course, if it's really a fad T you're lusting after, the cartoon proportions of the car and hanging out of and over the car body (windshields below eye level don't really do much for keeping crap out of your eyes and bugs out of your teeth, however) go hand in hand.

 

Built this by cutting 10-inches out of the center of a '78 F-250 hood. Turning them up, and welding some cross pieces in. The body is upside down in the picture. The idea was to mount it to a cowl of some sort. I didn't like how most homebuilt bodies had square and boxy shapes. I got tired of looking at it and rolled it over in the bushes.

 

rust head....Here's an early "T" cowl that could be easily widened by adding a strip to the center. I can't believe that building the rest of a lengthened "bucket" body over a square tubing framework would be too difficult.

 

I owned a T bucket one, never got it on the road, didn't like the idea of my body parts hanging over the side.
I would not call my tub a T-bucket but it is pretty close to the idea. I used an A 4 door cowl and a 26-27 T touring back half. I built doors from some 24ish era T touring back doors. The car has tons of room, bit the doors are kinda small for getting in past the steering wheel. It would way simplify things if it just had solid panels instead of doors.

 

I have been considering taking an old 50s-60s four door, cutting of the back and building a rod ala Lunar Lander. You can make all the room you want.

 

you could make the body outa an old refrigerator or like mine which is a cut down tudor(some one took the roof and the doors be for i got it)

 

I put 2.5" extra in mine and most people have never noticed I'm 6ft and fit in it good and pretty low.

 

a great part for the rear quarters of a home made bucket/rpu back is the upper rear corners of a full size van turned upside down. next time you see one on the road notice the shape and how much they resemple a ford body part

 

If you are interested, I would recommend a C-cab t-bucket. They are a lot more open and I have some pics of a fellow up in Washington State that made one where the body, roof and back end was all the woodie look. I am sure that it is a lot larger than the traditional t-bucket.

 

Anyone ever done anything like this from a 4 door model A?

 

23 Model T cowls are a bit of work...a 27 is easier and has more room...I lengthened mine 4ins in the bulkhead ..it didn't give me any more footroom but I sit nice a low in it and it looks killer ...the body I've made could be built longer and/or wider and by doing that you'd have an all steel car
I'm not a big guy at 5'7" but I've had a few BIG guys sit in it and wantin one.....these things are small at the best of times tho...
whatever you do ..make sure to remember the roads are full of idiots and build it strong!! just my .02 PB

(ooops now I feel like a shmuck cos my pics are on other computer!! ... hang on...BRB )

 

heres mine...

 

How about showing us more of this build???..... Thanks!

 

All from scratch? Nice work!

 

Very Nice work lets see more....

 

I'm facing the same challenge with my lakes modified build. I'm about 6 foot,and its going to be tight. I'm using a glass 27 T bucket because I haven't been able to find a metal body,that I can afford.The plan was to use the glass body for mockup only,but since I haven't come up with a steel body, I need to move on with this project. I think I'll be able to pull it off. I'm running a 4.3 V6 with a t350 so I only need enough room for a break and throttle. My body sits on top of the frame and I think I can get the seat down far enough to sit in out of the wind and still be reasonably comfortable. I didn't cut the firewall ,so the only intrusion on the inside is the trans hump and drive shaft tunnel, so with a skinny back pad and seat pad it should work out ok.

...........Jack

 

I'd suggest laying out the drivetrain, suspensions and then a pallet in the middle to sit on. Get the stuff situated so you fit then figure out a frame. THEN figure out a body to fit. Stuff can be modified a bit here and there to make it all look good, but you gotta be able to drive it, otherwise it's just a model!
There are all kinds of sources for the rear compound curve you need. As an example, they make repop 56 for PU fenders. flip and cut.

 

i made mine from scratch with a wood buck. wrapped in fiberglass. its stretched and widened. T model ford fire wall and stretched cowl. the width is a model A. flatback like a roadster pick up.

 

I didnt build a T bcket but i did build a Jeep bucket . It turned out way better than I would have thought. I made most of it in wood first and did the rounded corners in Aluminum flashing material. I thin had a sheet metal shop copy it. I still have the wooden model down in the basement. I am not mr fabricator but if i can pull this off I am sure making a T bucket would be easy for many folks including you. What i have learned is do a bit at a time , always something but dont overwork on the job. Once it starts getting on your nerves leave it. You will be amazed how many insurmountable problems sort them selves out with a good night sleep.
Don

 

Just scale this technique up and you can have whatever shize of shape you want...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=380196&highlight=shroud

 

thanks for the compliments guys!! ..I been thinkin bout startin a build thread...gotta work out how to scan photos into my computer PB

 

Very nice build I`ll be waiting for the build thread.No pressure.....Got it up yet?lol

 

I built the body on my avatar. It was on the cover of Street Rodder (April). I started with the top 8 inches of an original cowl but the rest was was scratch built with a donor piece from a '56 F-100 hood for the curved back. I am 6'2" 220 lbs. I could sit with my legs straight out and low enough to see through a chopped windshield. When you build your chassis, plan ahead to drop your butt between the frame rails. My modified was very comfy to drive.

 

Any pictures of the build? My bucket has a glass body that I modified cause I`m not a small boy!! I love seeing these cars build for the big boys.

 

Hand-built this except for firewall,it's not stretched,though.

 

I wanted a bucket that would follow the frame and not hang over the sides. So I pie cut the cowl & pinched it. It's a cozy 2 seater, may not suit some, but what I wanted. I made sure it was long enough to get both legs straight on the floor boards. And the sides high enough so you sit down inside & not on top of it. I don't have another cowl so the next one may be all scratch built. I have no problem with wood frame body, have lots of locust here hard but lighter than oak. And with the glues & coated deck screws now days, makes a tough frame. Constant mock-up and test fit & no surprises. Backend had to be narrowed & deeper, faster to do from scratch, borrow a bead roller, IMO

 

I used truck fenders for the rear of my roadster,50 chevy rear fenders turned around. Built a subframe and filled the wheel openings.Used exaust tubing and conduit for edges,decklid.Stretched the pass compartment 6 in.Sold the swiss cheese 27 doors and built a frame and skinned it,put some slimline bearclaw latches.Only thing left was the cowl. http://2ndshot1 more paintedhttp://]

 

To keep things in proportion, make the body longer, wider, and especially TALLER!

 

I built this a few years ago for a friend. I originally built the chassis for a Jago 'glass body which were made in the seventies here in England and were 2" wider 2" longer and an inch taller than standard T bodies I believe. A few years later I built the all steel body below to replace the glass one.


Here it is painted.

 

Get a steel model t touring or phaeton body and shorten it or set it up for your size. Just what I would do. Jim.T.