Projects T C cab. 60's style on the cheap!

Still figuring steering box, I think I've got it but need to check the one I have and test mount it. In the meantime I made a new seat back for a buddies 35 truck. The origin nalmwas 7" thick, had broken springs and was mushy. I made a steel frame with a 3/4 ply center and used three different densities of foam. It's now 3.5" thick and makes him fitting his 6'2" into the truck way easier. The stitching is from the previous old guy restoration.

 

Looks great

 

Well still haven't figured out the steering. Box is too big. Would need a notched frame and a dimple in the steering column jacket to clear the spark plug.
I spent a bunch of time dissecting a pile of some free model A box bits to make a shorty T box. Should be fun!

 

This is why I read the HAMB. Guys building cars in their garage.

 

Could you do a vertical "bus" type column ?

Might be cool on this style build..

 

Could that box move back 2-3 inches, splitting the difference between the exhaust outlet and the filter flange?

 

Late to the thread.
dig it.

keep banging metal

 

@Uncle Ronn and @RodStRace
Moving the box back too much puts it into the oil filter. A bus type vertical might work but I don't like the look.
I have another box to try. If that doesn't work I'm going to notch the frame and move the steering box down and back a little. The rail,is 3/16" tube. Think I can weld in a 1/4" plate with tubes through to support it well. Might have to grind just a touch off the block!

 

While a little (or maybe a lot) ugly, would a truck rams horn give you a little more room to move the box up and split the plugs with the column?

 

Any reason you couldn’t add a flange and bolt it threw a hole in the front rail like a stock ford would have been? Seems like it could solve the issues?

 

Maybe. I looked at a lot of early steering boxes today. F1/F100 is not going to be an advantage. Way bigger than the Plymouth box. A 33-34 box might work but too hard to find. I gave a Cj2a box to buddy when I moved. He is going to dig it out and see if it will work.

 

Did I miss it somewhere? Why not a Corvair box?

 

Because I won't buy a "Flaming" pile and the resto perverts around here won't part with an original one.

 

LOL!

 

Makes sense. I bought mine on the hamb cheap, but that was a long time ago. I bet someone on here has one they will part with.

 

I just looked & found 5 original boxes on line for sale. A couple reversed. Others not . New bearings , bushings & seals are available.

 

I've been busy building parts for other people again lately, but today I had a chance to tack some of the rear suspension parts in place and get a look at where they need to be.
Rear needs to come back about 3/4" and I still need to cut the spring perch off.
I'm going to build a Watts link for it to reuse the panhard mount on the axle. Should be fun!

 

Far out

 

Might try a mid 60s Plymouth Belvedere 1 it is manual aluminum box

 

Are the coilovers going to be mounted at less of an angle or are you aiming for around where they are?

 

Not quite at this angle. The springs on these are quite stiff. Adding angle will help soften the ride, as will having them mounted ahead of the axle. In a perfect world they would be mounted at 20 degrees. I'm trying to keep them under the bed rather than going up through it. It a sea of compromise. But I would rather not buy new springs unless I have to.

 

If the springs are stiff enough to carry the mass they will work ok at a greater lean angle, but getting close to 45* is probably a bit much. More lean angle will also help with body roll. It looks like the bottom mount points could be dropped a little if needed without causing any ground clearance issues.

Cool build. Will be following along....

 

@twenty8 the lower mount is very adjustable. It's a set of brackets with holes in them. Currently it's set at 1" above the lowest point. I'm leaving it there until mock up is done and weight is applied. I want a pretty prominent rake on this one.

 

Hey, dr;
Will the ply box mount under the frame? Otherwise I suppose you'll have to move the engine over & go to a front-dump exhaust? If not, a different box seems to be the solution.
Marcus...

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...s-hot-rod-use-looks-like-big-corvair.1072708/

Other searches here seem to point to a cowl steer, so it might not work for him.

 

Could you rotate the box clockwise when you move it back, cut the shaft at an aesthetically acceptable length, then put a U-joint in the shaft. Also you would probably need to find a bearing, and away to retain it, to put between the upper mast jacket and the shaft.



I used a piece of 3/4" bolt and black iron pipe to make my through frame steering box mounts.

 

I'm going to move the motor up and forward as much as I can, I figure about 3/4" in both directions. Might try lopping more tabs and junk off the block that it doesn't need as well.
I don't want cowl steer. Not enough foot room as it is.

 

Could you build a saddle in the frame, and trim the ribs off the box to clamp it sorta like this? Pretty bad drawing but I think it communicates what I’m trying to say:

 

@Tim_with_a_T
Yes I think that would certainly work. I don't even have to remove the ribs. There are none on the bottom side. A cut out area, a brace underneath and a plate to bolt the box on would work.
But I'm recovering from surgery today and I still need to make new motor mounts. I'm out of commission for a week or so.

 

Anyone know what paint code this would be? I would love to paint the truck this color in a single stage metallic.