Got caught in a blast of rain and icy snow pellets yesterday while beating it home from a friends funeral. Only the second time we have ever had snow in Sept since the early 1800's! Gotta love global warming! Anyway...took a bit of a beating myself...so it got me rethinking about a top for the T. Had a side pic available so I did a quick drawup in paint. The top will have a stationary rear wrap the has a steel bow around the top area that is held by the body bolts on either side and vertical stabilizers on either side of the rear gl***. The flip back top will also attach (and pivot) off the body bolts and have just enough height on both bows to clear the roll bar as it swings up and open. A fringe lip will keep rain from finding its way in thru the gap across the back. The "look" will be close to Bob Zellhoefer's T bucket top...but it will work something like the Moonkist/Sunkist tops for entry and exit. Gotta figure out a reliable yet simple top latch for the windshield area next... This is just a view to see how it will all work and will likely be a bit lower on the car in its final form. Looking out the windshield easily being the deciding factor. BTW...the wheels are going too!
I went through a lot of head scratching on top ideas or options for my 26 RPU then decided to haul it to Rod Tops and let them handle it. I love the results. I also had side curtains made for it. Larry
Having had a bunch of British roadsters over the years My opinion is that these tailgate latches could be made to work. I have them on the tailgate of my F1 and they are surprisingly strong.
They could work for sure Charley...but the issue in my mind is getting in when you walk up to the car and the top is closed. Using those or the like would mean having to walk around the car and unlatch both sides. I need a way to operate two latches with a single lever, most likely centered under the roof on the inside I guess...and I'm not sure yet what to use. I'm thinking cable operated trunk lid latches might be the ticket but haven't had a chance to get to the Part U Pick yet to see whats available. I think an additional safety latching system might be a good idea as well...especially as it's common to make highway runs to the various meets and shows around here. Might be as simple as an inverted hood pin with a flip clip for that I guess. Don't need an "air brake" deploying at 70 mph! LOL
I thought that I might have an issue with getting in and out with the top on but I have found it easy enough to fold my 61 year young body into the ****pit. Enough so that it isn't a problem I'm 5' 9". The thing that helps the most with entry top or not is the removable steering wheel.
R/PU looks great Blue one! Seeing I have to change my windshield frame and gl*** to go a bit bigger, and my cowl so closely resembles the later T anyway, I'm thinking about converting the posts to a set that have the later look. The long posts will also make the top connection more secure.
Dana Barlow did a tech article on making a top for his car. HRP http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...top-a-how-too-do-it-tech.857951/#post-9479688
I basicly sit on the floor with a wedge like forward seat section for thigh support. (Moonkist style) Gotta shinny yourself upward quite a bit to get in a position to climb out, so the roof would have to be pretty high in my T to manage. I REALLY like a low roof...even lower than I plan really, but I gotta see out as this car is a driver! Right now the gl*** is 9" and definately too low but I'm hoping I can get away with 13" at the most. I'm gonna see if I can drop the *** of the car 1 to 2" over the winter as well which will help visibility a tiny bit. Every bit will help but I want to keep the mufflers parallel to the road. It's all a difficult balancing act with a T...LoL
I want a hood on my 27 T Modified. I'd originally adapted an MG B frame to use as a Carson top but I really wanted a folding roof. I decided to use a similar style to the hood on my O/T car which uses a simple frame that is tensioned by use of Pirelli webbing that connects all the frames and fastens to the back panel. I ditched the MG B frame and adapted some bows from a Morgan hood frame I had in the workshop. The header bow frame is clamped to the windscreen pillars using thumbscrews (like the Model A setup) but is not physically connected to the rest of frame, it uses webbing again. I also took inspiration from Dana Barlow's thread on how to make a folding top. It uses a similar system and showed me that it could work and look good on a hot rod. All the hardware is now done. I'm ow making an oak bow to go on metal frame at the front. There's also 25mm aluminium round bar crossmember that connects the two windscreen pillars. There will then be a foam rubber profile that seals between the back of the oak bow and the crossmember. I can then make the pattern for the mohair cover. I've laid it out in masking tape and it looks good so far.
Okay, makes sense. In addition to British stuff I have a couple of Porsche 944s. The rear hatch has a central key lock and two latch points, might be able to use those. 944s are relatively common in wrecking yards at least around here. Due mostlytly to bad timing belt maintenance. Just a thought.
Man...looks good Blackjack! I like the idea of an actual folding or roll up top...but its not something that will work for me unfortunately due to the need for easy access. I guess what I'll have will be a form of Carson top. It will be easily removeable for around town local rides but once its on I'm committed to keeping it there till I get home again. Whats your plan for actually attaching the material to or around the tubing?
That bellcrank/handle setup makes all kinds of ideas go off in my head...like maybe use the bellcrank alone and have it activated by bicycle brake levers mounted on either side of the top instead of having to ***** for a handle in the middle somewhere! They could potentially clamp directly to the top tubes that form the framework. Seems very workable!!!
Guess Tony used to just get pelted, huh Bill? Seems to this Southern boy that a top is a must up yonder in the cold Northland!
I sit on the floor too basically. My Bomber seats bolt to the floor and the seating pads are 4" thick foam. The Mr. Roadster windshield frame is the 4" chopped version. My top is about 2" over my head and there is no way I could see out of the windshield if it was lower. Probably would not have been able to have the top either.
Oooohhhh yeah...he got pelted a few times! LoL This past couple of years the weather is acting funny and it seems we're always about to get rained on. Also you can't get any heat inside so you get chilled unless its that perfect day roadster owners always dream about. I'm simply sick of having those rare perfect Nfld days always fall on WORK days, so I want to stack the deck a little more in my favor. It's gotten to the point I have a hard time getting any of my family to even ride along...and that won't do at all!!! I was a day away from having her ready for the annual Moncton trip...and it turns out I was glad I didn't take it. 600 miles outta town we had a MAJOR rainstorm that would have stopped me in my tracks and parking under an overp*** before limping back home. THIS July she will have a top and at least windwings, if not full side curtains...a heater/demister and a hood (at least for the Moncton trip anyway). I'm tired of looking at the darkening sky in fear....LoL
I was just up in the garage and its actually about a 1/2" thick. LoL Sounds crazy I know but its somehow reasonably comfortable. I think its that wedge shape supporting the thighs that does it. I picked up some gel pads to use on long trips but after doing a few runs around town I didn't bother to use them! Figured it was better to be as low behind the windshield as possible. I should say...it was never the actual plan to have that little padding. It was part of the rush to get her ready for Moncton...and it WILL be padded a little more over the winter.
I like the idea of the hidden seatbelt latches. I would surely bump my arm every day, if the brackets stuck up all the time.