Hey guys 1937 chev i want to install a T5 ive seen guys in the ford world keep the torque tube or closed driveshaft. Is there an adapter i can get to keep the factory not open rear drive shaft ? Thanks
Not to my knowledge. You'd be best off with a T5 from a 4WD S10 to start, but you'd have to be a decent fabricator.
I'd say no. Plus why would you want to keep the 4.11 gears? I have one behind a 216 in my 47 coupe. 47 216 block, 1958 bellhousing, 10 gauge sheet metal spacer, 1988 s10 T5 with about 1/2 inch off the input snout and the metric mounting holes enlarged. I am running a 69 camaro/nova 10-bolt 3.08 rear with a custom driveshaft and it is great.
I was planning on doing a C4 front and rear suspension but wanted to cruise the summer with a 5 speed something simple with the orignal rear end that way i dont need new rims right now. Ive seen the torque tube setup behind a ford but nothing chev. I was just curious , i guess i could find a rear end for the 37 and just do 1" spacers to convert the 5 bolt to 6 bolt . Whats a decent rear end for the 37-39 ?
A couple of the guys over on "The Ford Barn" managed to shoehorn one into a pre-war Ford keeping the original torque tube. If they can do it, so can you. The question is : "Is it worth the effort?". I think they used Jeep T5 parts and a lot of fabrication. You might look over there and see what it took.
It has been done! I believe on this forum. If not, perhaps search you tube. Using a 4 wheel drive T5 from a jeep. Ben
You do not have to have a T5 from a Jeep. A GM s- truck or blazer 4x4 sourced T5 will work. I have a T5 closed driveshaft adapter from Dave at Vintage Metalworks for my Model A project. I do not know if he is still making them, but he did make them for Model A driveshafts and the later ones also. If he has already made one for a Chevy, he could do it again. If not, maybe he will make one? I would contact him and see. https://vintagemetalworks.blogspot.com/
Keep in mind that the torque tube and driveshaft have to be shortened. I have a '39 stovebolt that I would like to do something with the transmission and rear end in. I have thought about a T-5 and open drive. An other thought...the Master Deluxe got 4.22 :1 (stamped letter B on the carrier) and the Master Six and 85's got 3.73:1 ratios ( stamped letter C or CB on the carrier) The light trucks also share the rear ends in common with the cars... Right now my '39 got 6:50 x 16" tires and that helped some
im beginning to think just swapping the rear end and wheel spacers adapters would be a better option lol. I guess look for a 2000 explorer rear end. Anything old like a nova or Camaro rear end here in Canada is not gonna be still around . T5 from camaro or s10 with the s10 tail piece and a custom drive shaft and explorer rear end and adapters would prob be easier then trying to shorten then torque tube and custom fab a inner ball u joint.
When we were talking about T5s yesterday, it slipped my mind that a friend has a S10 4x4 T5 with a 4.03 1st gear for sale. Warren
...but that's the beauty of a T5. The low gear ratio of a stock Chevy three speed from these cars was 2.94:1. 2.94x3.73=10.97 overall ratio. Most S10 T5s have a low gear ratio of around 4:1. 4x3.08=12.32 overall ratio.
Ben, sorry but we found that shipping a T5 to the US is prohibitively expensive. We had opportunity to ship to US before and the sales were cancelled because because of shipping. We prefer to ship within Canada or hand deliver to Jdmcrx Warren
T5s come with a 2.95, a 3.50 or a 4.03 generally although there are other first gears. 4 speeds and autos generally are in the 2.54 range. Most any T5 will handle a 3.08 rear but that would be way too much 4th or 5th gear. In my Studebaker I run a 2.95 with a 3.73 rear and in my banger I run a 4.03 with a 3.88 rear. Both give me great take off and comfortable cruising. My Cutlass which I recently sold with a 3.55 rear first had a 3.50 first which was too low and was replaced with a 2.95 which was perfect. For a 40 hp A-bone or a 80 hp flathead, the S10 4.03 gives perfect first gear acceleration with comfortable cruising with the 0.73 OD Warren
Anyone ever pull the driveshaft out of the torque tube on a 37-39 ? Wondering if its solid or hallow shaft and how does the ends look , the U joints etc
There is no u-joint on the rear…the ujoint at the of the rear of the transmission in the “ball” is bolted to the output shaft of the trans and a slip spline to the drive shaft. The u-joint is split to remove it. There are 4 small cap screws after you slip the ball cover back.
Just for reference, here's what needs to be done to a Packard trans to mate it to a Chevy torque tube. Back in the day if you couldn't buy an adaptor, you found a solution. Are we lacking this kind of thinking and ability today?
This gentleman has done some thinking about how each set up needs different gearing based on weight and power. I have a 2.95 gearset for my S10 4x4 transmission that will go in a AV8. This is a great calculator for comparing different setups side by side. http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
It’s only my 2 cents, but if you want something simple so you can be on the road for summer then I suggest you just drive it as is. The 3 speed went this long, I’m sure you could get through another few months with it. I modify all my cars, I’m not an all stock guy but you are talking about a significant project and it’s already June 23rd.
With a splined coupling with a pin on each end.They sell for about $60. Chevys of the 40’, Carpenters, Summit. etc.
Hi all. I found this thread via search. I can start a different thread if that would be better but lets see. I have a 39 chevy Master 85 2 door sedan. I bought it as a stalled project. It has a later 235 and three speed on the floor. I was ready to install the front sheet metal then started to think I should pull the motor and trans together so I can work on the trans. It is a leaky bugger. The syncros may be worn as well. If I pull the motor I will likely refresh or rebuild as it smokes a decent amount. Back to the trans. I resealed the torque tube earliest this year…okie bushing, diff front and rear gaskets. I was hoping the major leaks at the trans were the ball gasket but I wasn't that lucky. The trans needs to come out. I picked up an S10 nwc t5 from a guy parting a truck out. $75 and got a 68 camaro diff for free, which I am thinking is a 3.08 gear ratio. So I would likely regear. So my crossroads is do I just find another 3 speed or rebuild or do I go all in on the open driveline. I am leaning toward the open drive line but love the simplicity and cost of just replacing or repairing the 3 speed. I am into the torque tube about $150 on parts and tons of work and cleaning. Sunk cost though. I want to drive this thing a bunch and the t5 would be nice. Also I can't find a good 3 speed replacement thus far. For the open driveline. I get most of it. Would have to buy an adapter for the bell housing, cut and modify a cross member, likely change spring perches, change diff gearing, maybe new rear springs depending. What about rear shocks? I haven't seen anything on shocks or other additional components. Brake lines for sure. I would love to go open but walking through all of that may have convinced me to stick with the torque tube lol…other options I am missing on a better swap? Thanks!
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