What are the thoughts about how a T5 would handle the torque behind a Cad? Any problems or nothing to worry about. Interested in opinions on this.Would be in an A model so not much weight to cart around. Cheers
May not be the best choice, but avoid dumping the clutch or speed shifting and it will probably survive. The 6 and 8 cyl versions are higher torque rating than the 4 cyl versions. The Mustang 5.0 guys put some pretty serious power through them and they hold up OK. I would run it if you have it available. I have a plan to run a T-5 behind a Olds 394, but in a lighter roadster. My thinking is the tires will break loose before I break the trans.
I talked to a transmission guy about this same thing, he said he would run a T-5 behind a street SBC. He said that most likely you would bust the tires loose before breaking. If your car hooked up then you would hear that grenade sound. I am talking about a regular T-5. If you get a T-5 World Cl***, then they can handle a lot more HP
I have been running a T-5, Camaro with a S-10 tail shaft, behind a 390 with Isky solid roller, trips and have had no problems. It's in a 37 Cabriolet and I drive it like a gentleman. Maybe a little cherp now and then.
There's the key. If you're gonna rev it to the moon and side-step the clutch, you're gonna need more transmission.
I can't provide a math formula.....but as general proposition, when you install a given driveline part in a lighter vehicle, the effect is the same as if the part is stronger. That is due to the reduced resistance to movement of the 'load' (vehicle inertia). The easier the load moves the less strain on the driveline. That also would apply to using a ge****t with a lower (higher numerical) first gear. That would also 'move the load' more easily and thereby lessen the load on the transmission. Unfortunately that is in opposition to the fact that the lighter the vehicle the higher the first gear ratio could be. Nonetheless, the lighter the vehicle the easier it is on the driveline. Ray
In fresh condition, they're factory rated for 325ft lbs, if memory serves. but as the others said, a light car, no sticky rear tires, and voila, wiggle room. still, nothing's cheap when you do it twice. If two transmissions cover the cost of one stronger one, then maybe buying the stronger one once buys you peace of mind, rarely a bad thing. Do you want to gamble with something that close to your legs and feet? i'm not saying it will explode. I'm just giving the devil his advocate. At least you won't be a rat rodder with the T-5 going nekkid thru the cab, over the floorboard and under your elbow. Yep, seen it a few times.
That is generally believed, and it intuitively makes sense, but that's not quite how it is. If the engine produces a given amount of power it will accelerate a light car faster than a heavy one. Either way, at full throttle the engine is pushing on the car as hard as it can and the trans doesn't know the difference. Where the difference comes is that with a heavy car it might take the engine three times as long to accelerate a heavy car to the same speed as a light one. As a result, the trans would see 1/3 the full load time in the light car as it would in the heavier car. It's actually a matter of duty cycle rather than the lighter car being easier to move. The torque output of that Cadillac exceeds the rated capability of the best production T-5 ever manufactured. That doesn't mean it WILL break, but it does mean it would be easier to do. All things being equal, the higher the first gear in the trans the harder it is to break. With that engine you really don't want a low first gear anyway. The best production T-5 for you would be the Mustang "Z" version. I wouldn't use any of the weaker versions, but I would take a chance on that model. In the end it has a LOT to do with how you drive. The T-5(and also most other car transmission) torque capacity rating is based on a lifetime of use in ordinary conditions. A drag racer might break the trans on the first hole shot where the average commuter could use the came car/engine/trans for 100,000 miles without breaking anything.
theres been people on here who've blown the WC camaro t-5 up with mild small blocks. the caddy is pretty torquey im sure, if it were me i wouldnt do it. i was thinking ******** about a t-5 behind my small block in my apache build. ended up giving up the overdrive and picking up a muncie. id rather overkill it for what i need than have the thought of blowing it up in my head every time i drive
Thanks for your input,The main reason for asking is I made an adaptor to fit the WC T5 I have behind the Cad motor then scored a Torino 4spd toploader that came up.I then had second thoughts on using the T5 as 1,I would have to make another adaptor,2,I don't think I would need 1st gear much with the torque of the Cad and 3,with the torque of the Cad a stronger box may be needed, but having an overdrive is appealing considering the miles I drive. I have picked up a 390 for another project so was thinking of saving the toploader for that. I do not drive real hard and running bias plys they would break out first anyway. Once again thanks for your input/opinions.
If i can blow a Super T-10 with my Caddy in a 37 Ford cp. you get the idea of how long a T-5 would last !!!
I've just put a TKO 500 behind my caddy in my coupe replacing the 4 speed. For the price difference to a T5 it was better just to go to the TKO Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
OK - I'm far from the expert, but I've read a lot of BS on this thread. Here's my OPINION: if you run it hard, it will break. If you baby it, it'll last. If you drive it "normally" - you'll likely see a decent trans run for a decent amount of time. The "torque ratings" of transmissions during this time period were odd ratings - they were per 100,000 miles. In other words, if a trans was rated at 260lb/ft of torque (as most S10 T5 were), it mean they would withstand 260lb/ft of torque for 100,000 miles. Well, we don't really drive like that - we want to know "shock" value - as a gross rule of thumb, based ONLY on my WAG, I'd add 15%-20% to the factory "rating" and go from there. Now, that ***umes you're hooking up - the tires are sticky and they always get traction. So, interpolate as necessary....have fun. Remember - there are no guarantees in life....racing....or in hot rodding. Do what you think will work, try it out and see how it goes..... Good Luck.
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