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Technical T5 Clutch Linkage?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Findail, Apr 4, 2026 at 9:18 AM.

  1. Findail
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 7

    Findail
    Member
    from St. Louis

    Putting engine and transmission back in a 1939 Ford and I can’t get the clutch linkage to hook up. Looks to me like the adapter bar for the manual T5 transmission is too long, but it was hooked up and working correctly when it was removed. The picture shows the clutch pedal all the way up and the transmission side where it is naturally sitting before being engaged. What am I doing wrong here, is there something off inside the clutch?

    Also, not sure what this rod is for, was thinking kick down, but it is too short, heavy, and the transmission is manual so it's not that. Any help on what is is and where it goes?
     
  2. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 9,748

    RodStRace
    Member

  3. Findail
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 7

    Findail
    Member
    from St. Louis

    Thanks for the heads up on the images, I think I have fixed the permissions. And thanks for the link, will take a look and see if I can get a clue as to what is going on with my set up.
     
  4. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 9,748

    RodStRace
    Member

    Glad to help! Images are showing now.
    Here's a search result for "T5 Clutch" in ***le here.
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/725018744/?q=T5+Clutch&o=relevance&c[***le_only]=1
    If that first one doesn't clear things up, you can look thru these and something may have exactly what you need or at least give you some ideas.
    I'd look at the Z bar leverages across different designs. Just like brake pedal linkage, there is a rule of force and movement that is going to be common.
     
  5. hepme
    Joined: Feb 1, 2021
    Posts: 651

    hepme
    Member

    Had a t5 for a long time with homemade linkage--factory type stuff didn't work for me. FYI, the pedal ratio is critical on those and adjustment is tough, close is good for most of 'em.
     
  6. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 743

    Flatrod17
    Member

    On mine if the arm is pulled back like you pic shows the fork inside will come off the bearing. Try pushing it forward and in or out to get the fork lined up with the bearing.
    As for the rod, no clue where that would go.
     
  7. MojoRacing
    Joined: Mar 24, 2013
    Posts: 221

    MojoRacing
    Member

    Is the part that attaches the the pedal rotate 180° toward the back of the car? Looks like the rust on it has a hexagonal shape as if it was flipped backwards maybe.
     
    RICH B and GordonC like this.
  8. Findail
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 7

    Findail
    Member
    from St. Louis

    @MojoRacing Tried that, frame stops it from going backwards.
    @Flatrod17 Not sure what you mean, I can move the transmission side by hand, but not enough to get it to attach and I think even if would go far enough the it would no longer be able to move and would not be able to function.
     
  9. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 11,199

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    I've sold 100's of my T5 kits for your installation and it's fairly straight forward especially if your using the 39 pedal ***embly. My kit interludes the bell housing TOBrg ***embly, lower shaft, fork, lever, return spring and bolts. The first thing is having the shaft clocked right when installing the fork and having the radiused front of the fork facing the brg. Not having the shaft clocked correctly is probably the most common problem. I also furnish a fabricated 39 style clutch lever that makes the hookup a simple deal. Most of my customers even use the stock clutch rod.
     
    alanp561 and Algoma56 like this.
  10. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 743

    Flatrod17
    Member

    Findail,
    I have mine apart right now, I will see if I can get some pictures for you today.
     
  11. Findail
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 7

    Findail
    Member
    from St. Louis

    @krylon32 I did not clock when ***embling, and i"m not sure what you mean. At this point I think I'd have to remove the engine and trans to do the clocking but that might be the right answer. Do you have instructions or a diagram to show what I should be looking for?
     
  12. Findail
    Joined: Jun 28, 2012
    Posts: 7

    Findail
    Member
    from St. Louis

  13. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 743

    Flatrod17
    Member

    See if you can make sense of these pics.
    20260405_102934.jpg 20260405_102923.jpg
    You can barely see the one side of the fork on the right, the first pic is in the proper place the second pic out of place. By pushing the shaft in or out you should be able to feel it lock on place.
    More pics if needed I will try to get them. You could call what I am saying clocking the fork with the bearing.
     
  14. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 11,199

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    What I'm talking about is the shaft being 180 degrees out of place.
     
  15. Flatrod17
    Joined: Apr 25, 2017
    Posts: 743

    Flatrod17
    Member

    I see you are referring to the fork pin to shaft. Right?
     
  16. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 11,199

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    Right. If it's off 180 degrees it effects the bearing travel which in turn effects the pedal and linkage. Who did you get your adapter package from? Are you using the original 39 pedal ***embly with no modifications? Send me a PM so we can talk in private and I see ifcan help you. No Charge
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2026 at 2:47 AM
    seabeecmc likes this.

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