T5 hydraulic throw out bearing question

I am putting a sbc in a model A frame. The body sets extremly low, and the engine extremly high resulting in the clutch throw out arm invading the go pedal space. I had already bought a slave cyl to hook up but all this will be in the way. I thought I could use a GM hydraulic throw out bearing, but then I thought about the 3/4" spacer that pushes the trans back. I've never used one of these bearings. I know they come with a handful of thin shims to take up slack, but if there is that extra space whaddaya do. Can a person just make a spacer to fit, or is it that critical?

 

I'm bumping this because I'm thinking of going to a total hydraulic clutch myself and I'm reading all I see about them.

 

I think a 3/4" solid spacer would work. As far as the the throw lever intruding. On my 32 I drilled and taped the bellhousing and put the throw out lever on the p*** side and used a slave from an early Chevy pickup.



Ago

 

I've utilized a HTOB on several ******s including a T-5. If setup correctly they save a ton of room. A t-5's input shaft is approx 5/8 longer than GM's prior gearboxes Muncie/Saginaw etc so the 3/4 adaptor plate will probably work to your advantage. I used a HTOB that was meant for a 4 spd so I had to redrill/tap the input shaft cover on the t5 to accept the us threaded bolt/stud retainer bolt which the HTOB rides on to keep it from spinning. Other than that mod everything is straight forward. BE SURE to shim the bearing correctly as this seems to be where many encounter problems.

If I can be any more help shoot me a pm and I'll try to answer as best as I can.

 

Why not use a bellhousing with the clutch arm on the p***enger side.. I know some later model Trucks had the slave on that side...

 

When I first built my Model A I used a hyd bearing, never again. Not a fan of that set-up. Worked "ok" for about a year then it started leaking. It basically puked all over the clutch pac. My advice...what Ago and s**** metal 48 said! That way any hyd issues are external and a much easier fix out on the road.

 

Not saying that they are bullet proof but I've set them up/used them for quite some time with zero issues. GM has put them in millions of cars/trucks? I do know that once something becomes problems it is hard to go back to the same set up.

 

A bunch of Chevy bells have a place to put the pivot ball on the right, and a raised area, where the fork hole could be. Cut that out, run the fork over there, with an external salve. I like the ones from Novak Adapters.