Just finished installing my T5 in my '28 Tudor sedan. It seems to be an awfully long distance from the clutch housing motor mounts to the rear spring. I'm thinking about adding a support at the rear of the transmission and wondering if others have done so and what it looks like?
Nice job on your install....I'm running a setup like you, without a transmission support in My '31 Vicky....I have about 20k miles on it now. I've hit railroad track crossings, twice now, that have been quite rough...both times going about 35 mph first one broke the rear dogbones on the shocks and put the fan into the backside of the radiator it was so violent.... a close inspection showed no other collateral damage...this was early on after I got the car on the road the second time was recently, crossing the tracks just outside Auburn, Nebraska....it launched me off the side of the road onto the shoulder....and thankfully recovered back in my lane okay....again, lost a front shock link as a result...but everything else was fine. I have been thinking about adding a transmission support...something that looks like the one in my Roadster, with an open driveline....I'll see if I can take a photo of it...it is square tube with plates bolted to the side rail of the frame and 3/8" flat bar that is bolted to the transmission....but it needs support for other obvious reasons being open driveline
I have thought the same thing. I have the parts, but have not done anything with them yet. My thoughts centered around reinforcing where the adapter bolts on to the transmission. Something to limit stretch and compression of the transmission since it is cast aluminum. Almost like a scaled down version of the k member that triangulates the forces towards the frame.
Looking at the picture, it is definitely longer then my Jeep T5. I like winduptoy's idea of the square tube. Doesn't have to be over built but maybe something to absorb the shock. Since you are changing from an AR brake cross shaft to a later style cross shaft, I would install that first to eliminate any interference and then install a removeable rear mount. Warren
It wouldn't take much to make a U shaped mount that went under the extension housing and was supported off the back of the the crossmmeber with tabs fastened to the crossmember and biscuit mounts like Tri 5 Chevy motor mount biscuits. I'm having a hard time convincing my computer to communicate with my camera so a doodle pad drawing is out for the moment.
You have to be really careful that you do not interfere with the brake and e-brake cross shafts. There is a rear mount on the tranny just behind the cross member or perhaps you could use the horizontal holes just ahead of the cross member. Warren
The bottom side of the extension housing looks like this one from an Ebay add. 6 threaded bolt holes to mount it in a couple of different Jeeps with a bit of a contraption of a mount setup. That is why I thought a piece of flat bar bent in the right places would serve as a hanger style mount using a couple of short pieces of heavy angle iron bolted to the crossmember and some rubber biscuit mounts. The idea being that it is more of a stabalizer to help keep the back of the trans from wanting to bounce and take some of the pressure off the trans case in supporting the torque tube. Probably the only acual cost for metorpete would be the rubber mounts and maybe the bolts and lock nuts. Everything else is probably laying in the metal bin.
I had to cut the rear mount off of the Jeep T5 to clear the brake cross bar, that is why I am saying to get the cross bars mounted first. Warren
I could have cleaned a little but I layed down to take these...kea wrap...I dislike hydraulic brakes on old cars...if you look at the left rear....oh joy..and I just did the front brakes The frame is boxed but you could box a short section and make the bracket to accept the square tube then the flat bar...and I just cut a piece of conveyor belt for a isolation pad.....but again this is open driveline...you could do something similar and saddle the back of the tail housing to a similar crossmember/support if your brake cross shaft gets in the way...thinking out loud here My thought is that you want everything as ridged as can be. The float-a-motors loose the structural aspect of how the engine/flywheel housing was firmly attached The Vicky had them and I removed the rubber mounts and had some delrin plastic pucks made and bolted everything up firmly....just a thought....I believe that is why it has survived its two, extreme stressing events.... looks like you have options
Thanks everyone! Yes, I am installing a later style cross shaft and parking brake cross shaft into my car (it was an early or what some call "AR" model with a completely different brake set-up). I will definitely have the brake system all hooked up before I look at supporting the T5. But, nice to have some ideas while working in "the area."
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