the #192 i have has a 3.97 first. it's perfect for my 3/4 ton. i just bought another as a B/U and the guy who rebuilt it told me that he put in a .72 fifth. the way i drive, these two transmissions should last me until i'm no longer able to drive. <table cl***="body-estext" border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr bgcolor="#d9eeeb"><td>1352-192 </td><td>GM 1989 S-Truck 2.8L V6 Only </td><td>R</td><td>3.70</td><td>3.97</td><td>2.34</td><td>1.48</td><td>1.00</td><td>0.79</td></tr></tbody></table>
You need to pull the tailstock to be able to pull the top cover. the shifter shaft for the internal rail shifter runs through the tailstock. if you are going to take it apart at the yard, take a small drift punch with you to knock out the split pin at the end of the shifter shaft. As to your vibration - have you rechecked the bolts that were loose & gave you trouble before? maybe they worked their way loose again.
OK - Not sure where you got those ratios, but they're incorrect. The 192 had the 3.76 ge****t (only 2 ge****ts offered in S10 - 4.03 and 3.76) 1st - 3.76 2nd - 2.18 3rd - 1.41 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.72 And if "your guy" changed JUST the 5th gears out, there's no telling what your 5th gear ratio really is unless you know the tooth count of your 1st gears because it's compound multiplication. You can mix-n-match 5th gears on any like-cl*** (ie WC w/WC and NWC w/NWC) trans, but you have to do the math...
OK - Not sure where you got those ratios, but they're incorrect. The 192 had the 3.76 ge****t (only 2 ge****ts offered in S10 - 4.03 and 3.76) 1st - 3.76 2nd - 2.18 3rd - 1.41 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.72 And if "your guy" changed JUST the 5th gears out, there's no telling what your 5th gear ratio really is unless you know the tooth count of your 1st gears because it's compound multiplication. You can mix-n-match 5th gears on any like-cl*** (ie WC w/WC and NWC w/NWC) trans, but you have to do the math... 3.97 is a 4-cyl Mustang ratio...
The guy with the old mustang may be in for a pickle also. The input shaft is 1" longer than his old one. To long to just cut it off. It will take a swap of the shorter input shaft. I think they are about $250. Although a nice upgrade nothing is real clear cut on the T5 swaps. What I've found is anything cheap is not worth buying. The word is out and the vultures have picked most of the corpses clean. Gene
Ford 4-cyl input shaft is 7.41" and the V8 is 7.18" until '94. 94-95 V8 is 7.85" and uses a deeper bellhousing in the Mustang for SN95 packaging...
This thread makes me want to put a auto in everything i see. Wait this thread has made me start thinking stupid ****. Its like watching a puppy play in the road.
1989 was a tranition year for s10. The digital dash was an option. If they ordered this option the ****** had an electric speedometer sensor on the ******. To run the cable speedometer you would have to swap the older syle non-digital dash 89 or any 88 and down tail shaft on to it. But that hat would open some more worms for you. Like maybe 15 more pages on here. No speedometer then no problem. That is why the cheaper s10 ******s you find are 89 and up. We all would like the option of hooking a cable to the ****** if we want the speedometer to work. For most of us useing a digital dash takes away why we put ourseves through this mess in the first place. Hard to find someone uninformed to sell the 88 and older cheap. We all have been looking hard. At first I figured I'd take my time and find a tail housing for mine on Craigslist or some of the other places us vultures look. After 9 months of beating the bushes and dealing with people like you have described in these 15 pages I bought a empty 88 s10 tail houseing for $150. A complete 88 and down ****** in maybe good condition is $200 plus. Deals are out there but so are us vultures. I feel your pain a bit, but I have enjoyed this train wreck novel very much. Like uncle Red say's, keep ter stick on the ice, we're all pullin fer ya. Gene
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