I'll admit it, I haven't waded through the last 12 pages. But having said that, the pinion angles are EXTREMELY critical to not having vibration. I've dropped more than my share of cars and trucks over the past 35 years and while sometimes you get lucky, just as often you don't. I recently dropped the rear of my car another 7/8" to level it out a touch and guess what? It now shakes like a wet dog, whereas it didn't before. So I checked the pinion angle and found out that it was off about 1 1/2 degrees from what it was before the drop. Know how small 1 1/2 degrees is? Very. But it makes a difference and it's well worth looking at in your case.
thanks, should any auto-parts store carry them? at least i know that i'm on the right track now. after i get the trans properly bolted to the bellhousing it should change the angles slightly too. i had three mechanics look at this truck and none of them noticed this! i get under there and see right away.
I'll tell ya but you won't listen. That is the wrong bolt. It should have a 15mm head on it. You can also use a cap screw (allen head) in place of it but that bolt WON'T work.
But it's got to screw into a 62 bellhousing (at least the top bolts do, I believe the bottom bolts use a nut on the back side). Cap screw will be the way to go. Larry T
Are you really serious? After all these posts, all the times of you saying you were looking at the driveshaft and NOW you see the gearbox isn't bolted up tightly to the the bellhousing???? Seriously!!! Ugh!! The correct bolts are not hard to find... I have previously purchased them at Home Depot and Advance Auto Parts. So... Go get yourself some 1/2" - 13 x 1 1/2" socket head cap screws and the correct socket with a swivel and a 6" extension for your 1/2" or 3/8" drive ratchet and install ALL NEW bolts WITH lock washers then tighten the crap out of em. Good luck.
HUH??!!! He's not using the bellhousing that was originally attached to the T-5!!! I don't mean to be a dick but... yer talking out yer ass, man. Since when does an early 60's GM bellhousing require metric bolts??? 1/2" - 13 socket head cap screws are correct. Easy to find too... see my post above. Try this link for the "hard to find" bolts... http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=86zcm8
If you need 4 of the correct socket head cap screws I have a box of them. Just PM me your addy and I'll send them to you for $750. Oooo, I mean I'll send them to you for free!
I think you got it! I'm amazed it wasn't picked up sooner. I'm surprised if it shifted somewhat smoothly. I'm not familiar with the hardware on a T5, is that the right bolt? The right one should have a reduced head configuration. Any decent parts store should be able to help you out. Another option is to use allen cap screws, take one bolt out and go match it up and use an allen key to sock it down. I was thinking all along, vibration = looseness. Something from a dynamics class I took a few years back. Bob
LOL Sorry to call you out on your INCORRECT information, but I figured you could take it since you posted your smart ass comment of "I'll tell you but you won't listen." as if you are THE be all, end all czar of proficient fastening devices. And I just gotta ask... "kiss me where I'm talkin"? If you are typing, wouldn't that be your fingers? The statement seems rather odd... Do you have a finger kissing fetish or something? Don't get yer panties in a wad because you were trying to be a dick and got called out on it... You didn't even really get called out on it, you were just corrected in a very prominent manner. Cool avatar, by the way!!! Either way, I hope the guy gets the right bolts, tightens them down, and learned that next time Billy Bob Jethro works on his stuff and it doesn't turn out right, to check the blatantly obvious things first.
hal: i really appreciate your offer. if i can't find them locally, i'll get back with you. in the meantime can you upload a pic so i know what i'm looking for? THANKS! yeah, i'm a little ticked about it because that fuckhead knew what he did. he didn't bother getting the correct bolts. i could have destroyed the trans. if it's damaged because of this i will be forced to sue the bastard. there's no talking to him. i can't stand looking at the senile old fuck. i had a twofold problem and maybe a threefold. i'll know after i get this trans properly bolted in. the driveshaft was definitely out of phase and and an inch too short. replacing it helped a LOT. i told my mechanic friend to check this stuff but we got sidetracked on the driveshaft and then the second mechanic removed the bolts from the front engine mount. when we discovered that i thought we were home free. we just got caught up in other stuff. now that i have it at home, i was able to look at it myself without distraction.
ah ya, your the one who stated I was talkin out my ass, so I was basicly tellin you to Kiss my ass. Sorry I didn't take the time to reread all 10 pages of this guys thread again. But what I stated is correct if he is using the standard T-5 Belllhousing. Like I said I didn't reread the part where he used the orginal, so yes the stock T-5 bolt won't work. But apparently you felt the need to come on here and defend this check writer. If he could see the trans being loose this whole time, and he obviously isn't listening to anything anyone is telling him. As far as me being THE be all, end all czar of proficient fastening devices, I am not, but I am a T-5 Guru, and I can say with confidence other than Ernie I have more experience than most anyone on here. Far as you correcting me in a Prominent manner, ya I don't think so, your were just being a dick plain and simple. The avatar is my ride and guess what it has for a trans? Yep a T-5, and take a gander at the drive line angles way more than stock, no vibration so I guess I know what I'm doin. But then again I don't ask for help then tell the people that are helping they are wrong. The OP needs to learn to work on his own stuff and stop writing checks to others, heck he can mess it up just as well as the mechanic and save a ton of money.
In my area Ace Hardware stores have a great selection of socket head cap screws that dragsta is going to need. Now the only things I am worrying about is whether or not "mechanic"bothered to take a 1/2" or so off the input shaft. The next post could very well be "how come the mounting ear of the trans broke when I tightened it?" Hope not... 'Course there's always the driveline angle thing...
Hal: thanks! just got the allen head bolts and i have a 3/8" allen wrench but i might go back out and get the allen socket as you suggested. damned bolts were $2.00ea but if this fixes all vibration problems i'd have paid a lot more. i just hope that it didn't screw up my trans driving it like this. borntoloze: if this doesn't solve all the vibration issues, i'll get an angle finder and go to town measuring this thing. thanks to all for your replies. i'll get out there later today and start bolting that trans in properly.
All this badmouthing the other guy. No good deed goes unpunished. Next time do it your own lazy self.
Goodgodamighty!! I can't believe I read this whole thing! So, after tightening the trans, did the vibration stop or not??
I'll be interested to see if the "mechanic" tried to put a metric bolt in there, and when the mismatched threads locked up, he just thought it was tight. Those threads on the bolt in the transmission pic don't quite look coarse enough to me to be a 1/2 - 13
sorry for the delay folks. i had to go back out and get a 3/8" allen wrench socket this eve. will bolt it up tomorrow morn. i wish i had....
There is one more thing you need to know. The 1/2" bolts won't go thru the holes in the transmission. You need to drill the holes out to 1/2". Hopefully, your first guy already has done that......... Didn't I mention you would neeed the allen socket earlier?
I'll add one more to the mix, this won't cure the vibes but it will make your trans last a bit longer when you finally figure it out ............... You need to run 70W Gear Oil in that trans NOT ATF if it is indeed a NWC as you say. I know there is a lot of confusion on this issue, some will tell ya to run ATF just because the later WC ones do, but there are reasons why this changed, WC trans differ from NWC, see here.............. http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm I have done this swap and run a NWC trans with 70W Oil ........no issues Man, I am going to be bummed when this all gets sorted out cuz it's been one of the the most entertaining threads lately ............... A real life comedy of errors, Dragsta I feel for ya but you have got to have taken the toughest route to T-5 swap yet, starting with a $100 junker out of a wreck, with stress cracks in the case, requiring input shaft shortening, bearing retainer shaving, front bearing shimming, spline lengthening, etc....................... and to top it off having someone else do all the work, you have no way of knowing what has and hasn't been done. For your sake, I do hope that last socket head cap screw is the answer but................. I'm betting it aint over yet. Good Luck........Judd
borntoloze: maybe allah put me through all this shit just to give you a reason to get outa bed. this morn i went under there and installed those allen head bolts on the top of the trans where THE IDIOT had regular bolts that couldn't be tightened and were falling out. i also had to redo the other bolts because he didn't have washers and lock washers where required. i then went to work on the trans mount. the bracket that the idiot made needed modification so that it didn't pull on the trans when tightened. it was close but i didn 't want it pulling even a little bit. i fiddled with the mount for a few hours filing open the holes so that the bolts would line up perfectly. i installed a new rubber mount that is more flexible than the first mount because the rubber isn't solid. it has a space between the rubber and the trans which i like because it will allow for a little more flexibility. i finally bolted the mess back together for the last time and took it for a test spin and it's FIXED. my main concern now is damage that might have been done to the trans because it was LOOSE at the bellhousing and the driveshaft was shaking like a politician behind in the polls. but it's not making that "sanding" sound either. now i need to finish the floorboard and put some sort of insulation/carpet down there.... four mechanics looked at this truck and NONE OF THEM thought to do what i did. thanks to everyone for their input and ear.
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