I have a T5 behind my 8BA already mounted to the frame of my 32 with everything attached (exhaust, plumbing, etc...). I'm hearing some knocking inside the bellhousing which I suspect are the counter weights on the pressure plate. So I need to get in there. I'd like to remove just the trans without having to pull the whole engine. How have you guys supported the back end of the engine when you did this? Are jack stands enough or am I gambling and should do something mounted into the frame? Thanks!
I have used tie down straps for supporting the engine while removing the T5. The heavy 2" ones used for the car trailer. Works well, I just use a small platform jack with a piece of wood to raise the ***embly and route the strap under the oil pan and around the frame rails. These small jacks are less than 4" high even with a piece of 3/8" plywood on top to protect the oilpans finish. They are capable of holding the engine and trans. up on their own but I use the tie down straps just to be safe.
Another truck to get the trans out, if you can't tip the engine down enough, slide the trans straight back a little then rotate it 90deg. to clear the floor.
Scissor jack on the trans, floor jack on the back of the engine so you can play with the angle, and some ***orted blocks of wood I did this recently on my '30 Does your floor come out easily? Chappy
Thanks. Yes I can take the floor out and get full access in there. This is what I was thinking, just wanted to check with everyone to make sure I wasn't missing something. It'd be so much easier to just pull the whole engine but there's to much work involved with that and I'd rather not if I dont have to. I'm surprised these blocks didn't have some kind of rear support. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
depending on your configuration i would recommend a helper to watch the engine to firewall clearance as you lower the back of the engine (if needed). also watch the lower part of the fan to rad clearance, and stress on the rad hoses upper and lower... my only issue was the fuel pump riser to firewall...it was close but i made it work... Chappy
What I would look at first is how much clearance the oil pan has if you must tilt the engine to remove the transmission. Also look for other things like engine pulleys,fan,coil,distributor, exhaust headers, anything that may touch the frame, firewall or radiator if you tilt the engine. You don't want to s****e paint or bend anything. This is when a lift or a good friend with a lift is nice. If ones not available, then you probably need to raise the vehicle to have room to work. They sell transmission jacks that will support the trans and allow you to roll the transmission in and out easily. Some are short floor models and others are taller for using with a lift. Many people simply manhandle the transmission into place. Whatever you do, when you remove the clutch, you need a spare input shaft to center the clutch when you reinstall it. They sell inexpensive plastic ones. I don't really like the idea of sitting a car on 4 jackstands and then raising/lowering the engine with a jack. Millions of transmissions have been replaced that way. I always liked having extra wheels/tires and laying them on the floor and letting your vehicles wheels sit on them. Back to your original question about the engine. Once you have the car raised and stable, you simply place a hydraulic jack under the pan for support. You don't want the jack pushing metal to metal on the pan. Best to put a piece of wood and maybe even a rag to soften the contact area. Be careful not to put much pressure on the pan. An aluminum pan can break and steel can bend......so if you feel any resistance stop and check to see what is hitting. Knew a guy one time that didn't allow for removal of his transmission if he ever had a problem. No removable crossmember. You also need a spare driveshaft yoke to stick in the back of the transmission when you remove the driveshaft, or oil will run out when you wiggle the ****** out.
I was just re-reading your original post and remembered a noise i had that sounds similar to your problem I was messing with the adjustment of the clutch peddle, trying to change the bite point. After one adjustment (loosening I thing) I started the car and heard a knocking noise...swore I had a rod knock. anyway, i undid my last adjustment and the noise was gone. Not saying this is your issue but you may want to play with the adjustment with it up on jack stand before tearing it all apart. mine is a mechanical actuated clutch.... Chappy
Thanks Chappy. Mine is mechanical too. I can hear it with full engagement if the clutch (no pressure on the clutch pedal) I have to press it in 1/4 of the way and the knocking goes away. What gets me is that bell hosing is huge. Seems like tons of room inside there. If it's the pressure plate counter weights, then I should see some marks inside when I get it apart. If that's not it, then it's something else related to the clutch because it goes away when pressed. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
yep... that's exactly how mine was. I put a bit of adjustment on the pivot rod and it has been fine for a few 1000 miles now. Chappy
So you're saying adjust it before I tear it apart? Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I would...actually, I did... It pretty much ****s getting that trans out without a lift and trans jack... especially if you are doing it by yourself like I was... I must have done 2000 sit-ups during that job. It would really **** to get it out and apart and find there is nothing wrong with it... It can't hurt to try adjusting it first Chappy
If you need something to support the rear of the engine while the ****** is out use a ratchet strap from side to side around the frame rails. It works pretty well actually.
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