i just picked up a t5 to throw behind my 64 c10 with the 235, I'm also looking at getting a posi rear end out of a 85 Camaro, am I going to need a custom drive shaft or are there other options? Also will the rear end match up to a point? Just enough so I can make it work I don't expect a perfect fit by any means
Why do you want to change the rear axel? Is it missing, or blown up? Are you going to 5 lug wheels? Are you trying to get better highway gearing? Or is it mainly to get a Posi-Traction. If the original rear axel is in good condition, it probably doesn't need to be changed. The axels can be re-drilled for 5 lug, and a T-5 goes a long way towards better highway cruising. Posi's were available in those trucks. Course, finding one may take some time. Most likely the original would be a stronger rear axel than a Camaro, too.
I'm changing mainly for posi, and honestly I'm not super exited about about the Camaro rear end being 5 lug because I'm trying to keep the originality of the truck while making capable of being driven every day. I found a posi rear end from a 66 but it's out of my budget.
I plan on putting a 454 in it eventually, but being a teenager I want to do dumb stuff and leave 2 skid marks on the road. Mainly for the skid marks because when I do put a 454 I know I'm going to have to put a way better rear end in it
Ok, posi would be great with a 454.....can always add that when you get the 454 though, then you will know what rear gear you need. These thing often change with time !
curious....what is the gear ratio of your stock C-10 rear end? the gear ratio of the Camaro rear end?
Honestly I do not know, and I really don't know how to tell if I have posi or not I was just****uming that I don't, I don't really know how to check most of these things either
Gear ratio is easy to check. Mark a tire with chalk at 12:00 and mark the diffs yoke as well. Have a buddy rotate the tire one full rotation while you count the number of times the yoke makes its revolution. If the yoke spins just shy of 3 and a half times the ratio is the 3.42 you noted. The gear ratio is stamped on the ring gear but you can do this check without disassembly. While you have it jacked up and spinning that tire, if the other tire spins the opposite direction it is not a posi, a posi will spin both tires in the same direction when one is rotated. No one wheel squeals, friends don't let friends drive open rear ends.
Where is the yolk located I'm not sure what that is but I see people using the term all over the place
Also I'm tinking around with the truck so I decided to google the numbers on the the block and what I came up with was a 292 not a 235, is there a definitive way to tell? Pictured is the number off the block I googled
Just leave rear, or if gearing is under 4 you can do a poor man's posi and weld 2 spots up on the side gears and you have a spool. We have a Camaro posi behind our 235 with 2.42 gears and a 4 speed it's still 2200 highway speeds with a 26" tire Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I worked on a forest fire crew in 1969 and the workhorse truck was a 1966 3/4 ton Chev 4x4 with the 292 with a 4 speed manual. It was tough beast and worked hard. The 1st gear was really low. We rarely used 1st gear unless it was heavily loaded or to inch it up a hill in traffic. My memory of the 292 was that it was all torque and that it went down the highway with everyone else. No luck finding the brochure for a 1964 truck and found the one for the 1965 Chev 4X4's. The 292 cylinder version shows to have more power than the 283 V8. The 6 puts out the same gross torque at a lower rpm. http://www.lov2xlr8.no/brochures/chevy/654/bilder/4.jpg A decent T5 would with that truck should make it jump & cruise. There may never need to look at a V8 except for a refresh or a need to light up tires. http://www.teambuick.com/reference/calculators.php This will allow you to try the different transmission gears, rear end ratios, and tire size to see what is practical speed in all gears. This gives the gear ratios for most T5 transmissions.
A yolk is located in an egg. A yoke can be found on a pinion gear, a drive shaft, on a transmission, or any other place that a universal joint (u-joint) can be found. Where you see the socket on the impact gun is the pinion yoke. Not all of them look exactly like that, but they are in the same spot, and are where the driveshaft attaches. The name yoke comes from the device used over oxen or horses, when using them as a pulling team. Ox yoke: U-joint yoke: Make sense? I am not saying this to be a jerk. If nobody ever tells you the correct terms for something, and you continue going forward in life with the wrong ones, you may be mistaken for a fool. Nobody needs that.
I would keep the 292, and put a few hop-up parts on it. A 454 will spend every paycheck in gas, and probably get you in trouble. T5's are reasonably strong, but a 454 will likely break one, even the stronger World Class version, especially when you are going to try to do posi burnouts with it. Will you have the cash to upgrade it to a much stronger transmission when you do? I would back your hopped up 292 with a World Class T5 from a Camaro, keep the stock rear end, and get a custom driveshaft. If you already have a manual transmission, putting this in is not a huge deal, but there are some small hitches. If you have an automatic, you are going to need a whole bunch of parts. There is noting wrong with the axle that you currently have, unless it is bent or broken. You can get a limited slip device for it, if you really must have one. See if there is a tag on that T5, under one of the bolts that hold the tail housing on. Post all of the numbers. If there is not, see if there is a sticker on the top cover, and post those numbers. Case numbers do not matter. If there is no tag, and no sticker, take a picture of the very front of the transmission, from this perspective: Make sure you get well focused and up close. The round plug between the bottom two bolt holes are what you want to make sure you get clearly depicted.
Thanks I didn't take it as an insult I'm always one for learning that's why I bought this truck. Thanks patterg I might just have to keep the six, does anyone have any ideas about the drive shaft
World Class T5 (stronger): Non World Class T5: Just look at the plug in those two pictures, as both of those T5's are Ford pattern. The WC one has a covered bearing in that place, which should have bearing company markings. The NWC one is just a plain plug.
You'll either need the one you have modified (shortened or lengthened), or you'll need a new one. You'll need to measure what's there now, then measure what you're putting in. The difference is what needs to change in the length of the driveshaft. A good shop can advise you on what to do, as well as setting it up to mate with your trans and diff. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If the current driveshaft does not change diameter anywhere, it can be shortened easily. Some guys even do this at home. ANY driveshaft shop can shorten and re-balance it for you, often pretty inexpensively. If it is a shaft that gets fatter in the middle, it may be able to be shortened, depending on just how much needs to go away. The last one that I had shortened cost $60. I cannot rightly remember what type of shaft these came with, and have no way of knowing if you still have the stock one.
Oh, and some long-bed, long-wheelbase pickups have two-piece driveshafts. If you have one, don't panic. You would just have to have the front portion modified. Just remember, there is no such thing as a simple engine swap, unless you are going to exactly the same engine, and sometimes not even then. When you are $2500 in on a $250 job, you won't be happy. Save your extra money for trade-school or college, then you will be able to build/buy better toys later on. If your friends don't think that your tricked out 292 is cool enough, level-up.
I took 3 pictures I couldn't find a tag, and before I 454 swap if I actually do I would put a bigger trans and reend in I'm just t5 swapping because my 3 on the tree doesn't like to change gears
I'm actually going to school right now for diesel mechanics so I can afford all the toys I want without having to sit at a desk all day, a twin carbed 292 with split headers straight piped to the back is plenty to get me by until I have a decent pile of cash to throw into the motor swap. Thanks for the driveshaft info that's the one piece of the******* swap I'm having issues with because I have the adapter plate already lined up I just didn't know what do to about the driveshaft
My phone just updated so I could see what you actually wanted in the close up, I was told this came out of a 84 s10
If it is out of an S10, the shifter position will be as far forward as any T5 ever made. There are a few other shifter variants, but those are the GM ones. One thing to note, all S10 T5's are Non World Class, until 1993. By then, they had an electronic speedometer drive, and a FORD (yes Ford) bellhousing pattern. Non World Class T5's have gears that ride directly on the shafts, and run gear oil. World Class T5's have gears with needle bearings inside, which ride on the shafts, and run ATF for lubricant. There are some internal differences, but there is no point in taking one apart just to see. An easy way to spot on is the DEXRON sticker on the side, by the fill plug, if it is still there. S10 T5's were made with two different gear sets. One has a 4.03:1 first gear, and the other has a 3.76:1 first gear. Almost all T5's from the early years had the lower gear set. It might be too low for good every day use. That is why I asked if it had a tag, or a sticker. The tag or sticker will have a number on it that starts with 1352 (means T5) followed by a three digit suffix. The three digits will tell the tale on what is inside. A NWC T5 still probably would be fine, but the Camaro's ratio set, which is even yet still different from the S10, might be better, given the HP/TQ that your 292 has. Here is a good source of info: http://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/t5-info-page.html
My******* looks really small comparatively to those pictured Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also, if you are using an S10 T5, you should not need an adapter, just a spacer, unless you are adventurous, and feel like trimming the input shaft. The S10 T5 input is a little longer (7.2"), by like 1/2". A Camaro one has the correct length input shaft(6.6"). Otherwise, the transmission to bellhousing pattern is exactly the same as the 3 or 4-speed that it might have now. The bolt holes in the transmission will need to be drilled out to fit allen bolts, though. At some point, GM decide to use a larger input bearing, and a larger input bearing collar on the transmission used in trucks. What this means is that the big round hole in the middle of the bellhousing is bigger. To use a passenger car, or S10 transmission in one of those, you will need a spacer ring. Numerous vendors sell these, or a good machinist can make you one. Do not skip this step. Provided that you already have a manual transmission, everything else can stay the same, except for the clutch disc itself. You will need one that is the same diameter as stock, with the correct size and spline count to match the transmission. If memory serves me, that is a 10-1/2" clutch, with a 1-1/8" 10-spline hub. Maybe it's 11" The S10 T5 has a 1" 14-spline input shaft. The Camaro T5 has a 1-1/8" 26-spline input shaft. All combinations of diameters and hubs are commercially available. And a sturdy crossmember.
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