I believe that is a case part number. There should be a steel tag, on the driver's side of the transmission, held down by one of the tail housing bolts. Should look like this: There may also be a sticker on the top cover. Depending on your climate, it may not have survived. It will be white, with a green band at the bottom. The number you want is in the green band, with white letters: Later models just has a white sticker, slightly larger, with black text.
Unfortunately I'm not seeing any of these tags nor markings, there is one sticker on the top but nothing is readable not even the color Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think that you will find that this site is of, if not the largest repository for this sort of information, all in one place. Just keep the questions coming. If I cannot answer them, there are probably 400+ other people who easily can.
That may be a later model T5. The label in that position would be one of the white ones, with small black letters. The green/white one would have been by the edge of the cover. This is/was a laminated label, meaning it had a clear layer over a backing. That surface that is wrinkling may be that top layer. You might try peeling it off. If it looks like there is another layer below, keep going, it may reveal the number. Concentrate on the corner: In this case, the number is 13-52-176, so you know the positioning on the sticker. Unless they were having a bad day at the factory, that should be the back p***enger side of the sticker. I know that they were using the bigger white sticker in 1988, but I do not know when they switched. They were using the white/green one in 1984. Come to think of it, I have a 1985 and a 1986 S10 T5 on the shelf, both with the white/green sticker (both 13-52-145), so the changeover may have been 1987 or 1988.
How does this top piece come out I've taken out all visible bolts but it doesn't feel like it wants to come out Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That is definitely an NWC S10 T5. Don't take it apart. As you have noticed, it takes more that the bolts. At the bottom of the picture, you see the receiver for the shifter. There is a roll pin that holds it on the shift rail. You'd have to drive that out (without losing it), take off the receiver for the shifter, and then remove the tail housing. Before that, you'd have to remove the speedometer drive. Could you post a picture of the driver's side of the tail housing? Specifically, to see if it has an electrical plug, or a screw on speeometer cable drive. The page that I linked to has a write-up on determining the ge****t. Scroll down to the bottom. If you REALLY want to, it has the instructions to get the cover off, too.
Other side, other end. That's the backup light switch. This is an electronic speedometer drive, note the plug: This is the side view of a mechanical speedometer drive. Same hold-down clamp, but you will find threads where the plug is on the other one:
This may be it because two drain plugs seems redundant to me Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Houston, we have a problem. This transmission will NOT work for your application. This is a 4x4 T5. You need a 2WD T5.
If you got that at a salvage yard, you might want to inquire on the return policy, in regards to how they handle selling you the totally wrong part.
Well I hate to say it, but this **** up is all on me, the add posting clearly says 4x4 private party from Craigslist..looks like it's back to square one Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Put it back up on Craigslist, same price. See if you can get an 1985-1988 Camaro T5, or Firebird. No later than 1988, as they went to an electronic speedometer drive. Definitely not 1993, or later. Those do not even have the GM/Muncie/Sawinaw mounting pattern, but the Ford pattern (all T5's regardless of installer make, 1993-on were Ford pattern). No spacer will be required, just a clutch disc. Just make sure that it has a 26-spline input shaft. That means that it is World Cl*** (stronger). The alternative is 14-splines, so just count 'em. I think you, and the 262 will be happy with the ratios.
In the mean-time, have a look here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-ultimate-t-5-article.171291/ This will show you the suffix codes to look for: 13-52-**x with **x being a number shown below. V8 2.95 WC 159, 160, 175, 176, 195, 196
Gimpy , I just want to thank you for taking the time to explain all this info and also for helping to "p*** the torch"