T5 Tranny question.

So, if I have a T5 out of a '95 S10, 2.2L, it is World Cl*** and has the Ford bellhousing pattern. Am I right? Found that on the monster T5 tech article here on the HAMB. What it didn't say was if this can be adapted to a Chevy 235. I know there are adapters for a swap of an older T5, but can it be done with the newer one? If I have missed an article somewhere that points this out...please send me in the right direction. Thanks.

Here are a couple pics of what I have.

 

I also have the bellhousing from the 2.2L, but I haven't checked it against my 235. Do they match up? Thanks

 

This is a good question. My knowledge goes up to about '93.

This has no mechanical speedometer provision, so will need an electrical one.

The bell housing will be the Ford pattern, different from the GM/235.

Would you measure the input shaft length, from the tip to the trans case? If the shaft length is comparable/compatible, I think it should be do-able.

Typically, to put an S10 T5 on a 235, you either have to shorten the input shaft, or use a spacer between the bell and the trans case. If the shaft length is the same, that spacer would just have to have a different pattern on it. It might not be off-t******lf available, but a competent machinist should be able to pull off making it.

 

FWIW,AMC used a Bellhousing that was Ford pattern on the ****** side and SBC pattern on the engine side.

 

AMC...eh? Anyone know what model or year? would this work to get t5 hooked to chevy 6? or am i trying too hard to make this work?

 

I want to say I heard someone say that a Chevy Astrovan bellhousing will work. don't quote me on that.

 

The Astro Bellhousing would have the correct spacing and pattern.

 

.......but wouldn't go against the 235.
BTW, I have the identical ******..welded a few nuts to the backside of a lakewood ****tershield to fit against a chevy V/8-late 6 cylinder but the ****tershield wouldn't fit an early chevy 6 banger. Somebody told me the ford-pattern T-5 has a longer input shaft than the chev so a guy could use the original 235 pickup bellhousing from the mid 50-s to the early 60s...whip up an aluminum spacer to go between the trans/bellhousing and drill out the T-5s mounting bolt holes for 1/2 chevy mounting bolts...done! The bearing retainer hole is the same as the T-5 retainer

 

My friendly transmission shop will let me paw through any transmissions they have in the shop and make cardboard templates off of them. It is fairly easy to determine what will fit what then. As a side note, just about ANYTHING can be adapted to anything.

 

None of the above suggestions are going to be relevant to a 235. The later sixes and V8's yes, but not a 216/235/261.

The 2.2 bellhousing is useless also.

Depending on year and application, a 235 bellhousing could have used 2 different patterns. Does it have the "small" pattern and 4 1/4" center hole, or is it using the larger "standard" Chevy pattern and 4 11/16"ish center hole?

I have made an adapter plate for both situations. Nobody else offers one to my knowledge.

 

I just put one of those in my 62 Chevy II. I was able to use my stock Chevy 4 speed (Muncie) bell housing, clutch linkage and fork. The drive shaft yoke was the same, I needed a 1987 Chevy Astro Van 11" clutch kit and the rest was easy. Two of the four mounting bolt holes needed to be enlarged with a cordless drill. My mechanical speedo won't work but oh well. From what I know, the 235 will need an adapter plate, see link below.

Maybe this will help, this guy did it in a 1946 Chevy truck, I'm sure he won't mind sharing this wonderful info.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/sets/72157600835133131/

 

The Chevy Truck 235 bellhousing will bolt a popular GM four speed or T5 ****** with a 1" spacer up to it.

The T-5 you have has the Ford bolt pattern. The AMC bellhousing will allow it to bolt to a standard Chevy smallblock.

A 235 does not have the same bellhousing pattern as a small block Chevy.

Easiest thing to would be to get the correct 235 truck bellhousing, a 1 inch spacer, and an earlier S-10 T-5 with the common GM bolt pattern. I promise you will be time and money ahead if you do it this way.

Like anything else, there are multiple ways to do this. You can spend a million hours or lots of money building a new mousetrap, or you can do it the easy way.

 

His T5 is from 1995 and has a different bell pattern than the one in the above pictorial.

T5 to 235 is well worn territory, just not this particular T5. Snarl appears to have the answer to getting it on there.

Or do as El Scotto suggests and get an earlier T5.

 

If the bellhousing and trans both have the same pattern, you wouldn't need a spacer.

 

Thanks for all the info. Looks like I am looking for a bit older version. Will keep my eyes open. Thanks again.

 

I don't know what you really put in your Chevy II, but The "ford" pattern T5 as shown in the pictures puts the bottom two holes a couple inches bellow the mounting surface of any Chevy bellhousing that wasn't made for that pattern to begin with. Any any Bellhousing that does have that pattern will not work with a 235 period.

 

Mine was out of a 1993 S-10 and was a World Cl***, there is no way it could have been a Ford bolt pattern because as I said it basically lined right up.

 

Like I said, it wasn't a ford pattern.
Some early '93's were WC with the Chevy pattern.

 

Snarl has the correct info...I think it'd be loads easier starting with an earlier trans with a GM bellhousing as has been suggested already.

 

Just to play devils advocate........I'm in the process of putting a ford pattern t5 behind my '62 235 with a '49 car bellhousing using an adapter plate made by a machine shop in California. He would probably sell you one. I paid him like $165 delivered.

This is cool because I've got a 1352-208 box which is out of a V8 mustang with the 3.35 first gear and the .68 overdrive!! Hell yeah I'll be cruising 70 mph with 2000 rpm!

I got my t5 box free. It's NWC 1983 Chevy pattern. I'm using the topcover and the tailhousing but I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the rest of it.

Anybody know if NWC and WC cases interchange??

 

********!

I have these in two different cars, my 1957 Chevy truck and my 1931 Ford Roadster with a 283. One has a 1957 Chevy p***enger car bellhousing and the other a 1962 Chevy truck bellhousing. Without the 1" spacer there is not enough spline length on the input shaft to allow the clutch disc to disengage from the flywheel.

 

And I and everyone else who has the same setup doesn't use one. Pull that ****** out 1" and not use a longer pilot bushing and you'll have very little to support the input. You are doing it the expensive way...

If you are using a T5 with the longer input shaft, like from the S10, then you shorten the tip of the input shaft about 3/8" and shorten the bearing retainer about 1". This exposes the rest of the splines. Depending on the disc hub, you may need to grind a little off the hub so it can disengage the flywheel. BUT YOU DON'T NEED A 1" SPACER...

This article is for a stovebolt, but the procedure is identical to doing a T5 behind a V8.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/t5******.htm

 

Do you have an pictures showing the bearing retainer shortened? I understand the input shaft, but dont know what the retainer would look like if it were shortened. Mill it? Band saw? How is it done? Photos please!!

 

It's not a critical component - you can bandsaw it...

 

use any method you like. Just don't waste your time with a 1" spacer...

 

that was my whole thing - I didnt know if it was one of those rocket science things or something the average guy could do.

thanks - I might try a hacksaw.......

 

I have the same question, so, I can just unbolt the shaft and cut it off?

 

You can unbolt the front bearing retainer/sleeve and cut it off. Be aware that if you pull the input shaft out, you run the risk of losing roller bearings down into the trans....

 

That's the kind of warning I needed to hear. Thanks.
I pulled it apart and cut it off, and the splines aren't cut as far up as I would have hoped. I guess I'll take some measurements on the s10 disk hub and the new one to see how much leeway there is.

Question: how much movement do I actually need out of the clutch disk?

 

I've heard of people carefully lengthening the splines with a die grinder and a cut-off wheel...