Technical Take the extra time with wiring.

these are cool for controlled cleaning for grounds etc

 

neat, I never knew that an end pilot wire brush even existed.

 

Bob I also went to a parochial school (how do you think I got so fu#%^ed up)? Anyway it caused me to study the chair below for sister Mary Jerold & sister Mary Harold! Good electrical training.
Yes lots of grounds are important!

 

I dislike amp meters. I bypass them. Install a volt meter.. And use at least one wire size larger than needed. Mt .02 worth

Ben

 

This was the factory ammeter....Chrysler corp had some problems with their ammeter design. Many have been bypassed, once someone figures out what the problem is.

 

This gets mentioned all the time, has anyone ever posted a side by side photo of the wiring on these two gauges? Amp gauge = fire, Volt gauge = smaller fire? Bob

 

This is something that you have to do in order to appreciate it. I did the same thing in a Nova bomber car. Somehow it started and ran, but developed a miss within seconds. The battery cables were hot. I had no ground between the body and engine block.

 

I will have someone else wire my car.

 

Now I finally know what these things are for!



I used to see them at the Boeing Surplus Store in Kent, Washington.

 

There is no point in using an ammeter with a modern style charging system. Effectively you need to run every circuit (minus the starter main feed) through the Guage to accurately measure what is being used. For instance, my father has 31 willys roadster with 6v gen and 'clap' style regulator. If the engine is working hard rpm wise, so Is the gen. So he'll or the park lights on 'relieve' some extra juice. They are primitive. I know people will hang shit on me for the sake of authenticity, but the power gen stuff is great. 12v is great. That's why we still use it. With modern solid state regulator/rectifier built in you will eradicate the need for an ammeter.

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it would be cool to use a permanent hall effect type "clamp on " meter to feed information to an old needle gauge. authentic looking but very little risk.

 

There have been cars made that do a similar thing, another way. I had a Chevy truck from the mid 60s that had a factory ammeter, but it was actually a voltmeter, that measured the voltage drop on the wire that connected the battery to the rest of the electrical system.

I think the basic concept is called a Shunt Ammeter.

 

bit different. hall effects measures the magnetic field created when current flows. no direct contact. nothing to burn up. transmit that to a modified stock ammeter and you are bullet proof.

 

Sounds like the difficult way to do something that is kind of easy

 

Safe is always a bit more work.

 

Wiring jobs can be as easy or difficult as you make it. I've always dreaded having to run wire for any project but when I do it becomes kinda fun and definitely rewarding when your done.

This is one of my recent endeavors..... building a stand alone efi harness out of a factory Lincoln harness and making it look good at the same time.

Lots of hours went into tracing circuits, pin checks and removing what wasn't needed to make something useful.

After everything is sorted out, routed, and works, I like to shield the harness with Roundit 2000, stainless tubular wire braid, silicon rubber pressure tape and tie string.











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49' Fords had that style of amp gauge, the feed wire just pasted thru a loop on the back of the gauge..

 

Ha! There you go. A CT for DC. I bet it would cost less now than it did in 49.

 

I like wiring my cars but like someone said, I hate tracing wiring issues in someone else's wiring.
Some things I've seen a lot of over the years is;
A short due to no grommets where wires pass through sheet metal. Always use good grommets
A short due to unprotected wires running past hot components. Keep wiring away from exhaust.
Squirrely performance (sorry Jim) due to poorly crimped wire ends. At least tug on the wire end after crimping.
On my latest acquisition, the PO added an American Autowire harness. Nice harness but it has about twice as many wires (circuits) than this car needs. So they are all rolled up and stuffed up under the dash - ugh. He also used a nice crimper that didn't crimp tight enough - I could easily pull off the wire ends, some had fallen off!

 

I like pulling the plastic insulators off , slipping on some shrink and soldering every end, but the harness manufacturers say thats a nono. Something about breakage? Anyone ever had a broken solder joint.?

 

Solder works well, if done right. Crimping works well, if done right.

 

Solder can cause problems if you use too much...it wicks up the wire outside the connector, mkinf for a siff section of wire that breaks easily as stress is on a solid piece rather than 25 little wires.
Just WATCH what happens! Heat the connector shank, feed in some solder, STOP when solder gets to the end of the shank. You only want solder within the tubular shank.

 

I read this whole thing thinking there would be a schematic.. HA.. Wiring up a Model A Roadster.. Buggy has a 12v Gen, Electric 16" Fan, High and Low Sealed Beams, Electric Fuel Pump and a Fuel Sending unit.. Only gauge that is juiced the the fuel gauge. Shouldn't be too troublesome but not sure how many relays to run.. I've heard 2 relays for Fan and 2 for headlights and 1 for Fuel Pump.. Seems a bit excessive. Thoughts?

 

Why do you need two for the fan?

One each for the headlights, and one for the pump, yeah.



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Good advice OP, thanks

 

All of my builds get a SS 3/8" bolt welded to the frame for the main battery ground, along with various other grounding junctions where needed or required
Frame to engine, frame to instrument panel, tail lamps, head lamps etc. So far zero problems with electrical systems on any of them. I also always use plenty of dielectric grease.

 

Lots of good advice

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I was heavy into stock cars and I apply the same thinking, what will put me out of a race? So I go with strain relief (no tight wires), enough slack so I can do a repair connection, shrink sleeve to fight abrasion, grommets, new shiny hardware for good grounds and so on.

I also make up a wire list as I go, it may be on post-its as I go, but I make it into a single excel document at the end.

 

I also used a painintheass wiring kit as I call it was suppose to be for my 57 Chevy and it came with 15,000 wires which I didn't 14890 of them lol now I'm gonna half to buy another wiring kit from some place that actually is for my car BC I kno absolutely nothing about wiring except enough to get me in trouble lol I can't seem to get my brake lights, blinkers and parking lights to work right so it might be better if I pay someone to do it eh lol,


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How do you view the images on this post with an X threw them?