Tank to soak a seized engine at home?

If it was numbers-matching, why didn't he just get it sleeved? It's a viable solution for a 302.

 

Liquid Wrench mixed with ATF

 

Sea foam makes some stuff for motorcyles seized works really well.Used it on a 6cylinder.made a wrench for the crank let it soak work it back and forth let it soak some more keep working it back and fourth.till you get it to move even just a little bit once you get to move even a small amount let it soak some more.Then it will move more soak more till you get it free and if it is a manual take the plugs out and drag it up the road while you let out the clutch out and run it through the gears.Friend did a stuck flathead and she is running to this day

 

It's funny that I found this, but I'm in the process of soaking my 324 Oldsmobile engine in a 55 gal drum full of the molasses mixture. My engine is seized and looks like they pulled it up with the titanic..... Rusted mains, heads, cams, you name it and it's rusted bad. Also it has four cracked Pistons.
I have tried the following:
ATF mixed with acetone,
PB blaster,
Heating the cylinders with torch, two ton bottle jack rigged to push down Pistons, hammer and wood, cheater bar, loosening all mains and rod caps. Separating cam chain from crank...... Nothing worked so now I trying the molasses method to see. I have nothing to lose at this point. I will keep you updated, also someone made the comment about the molasses mixture breaking down the aluminum/pot metal and ruining the acid level. Hopefully at this point it will eat the bearing and Pistons enough to the break everything loose.

 

I used to do a lot of antique stationary engine rebuilds so I have a lot of time in unsticking the stuck.What usually works on automotive engines for me is as follows-put the penetrant of your choice in the cylinders(you have already done that) heat the block using whatever method you prefer to get the penetrant to work faster and better-I used an old bathtub and put it over a nice bed of coals and put the block in it.Let it get hot and keep it that way for as long as you can.Remove the block when cool and mount the starter and flywheel on it,bump the starter repeatedly.Most times the engine will unstick fairly soon using this method.I have gotten some mighty stuck engines moving this way.If you dont have the flywheel or starter cut a piece of fence post that fits fairly tight in the cylinders,pick a cylinder that is about mid stroke and beat the end of the fence post with a sledgehammer.This will usually unstick the engine without destroying the piston.IME when the penetrant runs down past the pistons and it wont move the rings are rusted to the walls.Either method will shock them loose.Once it moves at all you have it.

 

Nice. Wonder if the original 394 guy ever got satisfaction ?

 

Beating on the pistons is somewhat dangerous...depending on just how bad the rings are rusted to the walls it is possible to break a cylinder wall.
Considering that the pistons are junk then ask your machine shop 'guy' when they plan to change the chemicals in their hot tank (obviously, if they are more 'modern' and use a spray booth then this does not apply...). If the shop guy agrees with the plan, drop the rusted hulk in the hot tank for the weekend and the pistons should be mostly gone by Monday morning and then he/they can recharge the tank.
Most hot tank chemicals also do a fair job on the rust even when the caustic is mostly depleted.

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After the rust-soak, instead of beating on the piston top w/a BFH &/or a fence post, since in essence what you're after is vibration(s) to break the rust-grip, why not cut a thick (~ 1/4-1/2" or so?) disc of Al or steel, & use that as a cushion between the piston top & the air hammer/air chisel blunt tip. Just watch out for the cyl wall. Adjust air pressure as needed. Would work the same as stuck screw/bolt removal. Next stuck engine I do (& it's been awhile), will use that method. No point in forcing things to break.
Marcus...

 

A little advice from an old fart, if it is rusted bad enough to keep it from turning you are going to bore it.

Get yourself some coke and some automatic transmission fluid. Mix it about 50/50 and soak the cylinders down with it. Loosen the main caps and after a day or so begin working the engine back and forth a little at a time, after every session take your shop vac and vacuum out the cylinders. then soak it down again. If you know someone with small hands get them to take some 600-800 grit paper and have them scuff the cylinders above and below the pistons that will help a little bit, also wouldn't hurt to remove the lifters so as to not damage the cam any more than it already is, I have had good luck with liquid wrench on stuck lifters. Take your time and try and salvage anything that you can. the rings are going to be toast but maybe you can salvage the pistons for someone who need them, or they do make great ashtrays.

 

Old thread resurrected just recently, but there's one trick I use I haven't seen. IF THE ENGINE IS STILL IN THE CAR, put a socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt; then jack the car up and put something under the end of the breaker bar and let the car down to put constant pressure on the rotating assembly. As an alternative, you can put a jack under the end of the breaker bar to put pressure on it. Raise the car as far as you dare. Now apply your own personal "witches brew" to the cylinders and let it sit.

I also remember a thread somewhere where a guy filled the cylinders and valley with charcoal and lit it up; claimed it worked and caused no damage to the block.

 

Tubby
I would try the burning myself. I may know where there is a seized engine. If the guy still has it and doesn't want it very bad I'll give that one a try and report back. if that works we have found the new HAMB go to for seized blocks.

 

I've had success lighting a fire in each cylinder to get some heat into the block. Turn it so one bank of cylinders is straight up, put a rag in each cylinder, pour pretty much anything petroleum based into the cylinders, and light the wicks/rags. Repeat on the other bank. Usually a couple cycles of heating and cooling will git 'er done, unless it's too badly rusted, in which case you're probably going to have to resort to destructive disassembly. Of course this needs to be done outside the shop, and out of the view of pesky neighbors.

 

Or in the beaners driveway. people are used to odd goings on at my place.

 

Hey Beaner! If you go that route, hows about inviting a few folks over for a bar-b-que? It'd be a shame to waste all that charcoal. You may be on to a new H.A.M.B. tradition here!

 

I'll drag the pig to Joplin and you and I can cook wieners for everybody.

 

I gotta try the MMO. I have a '70 351W core I want to free before I sell it, I tried 50/50 atf and acetone along with the soak/whack/rock routine for two weeks, which usually works for me, no dice. Its std bore, and these blocks are popular with 5.0 guys. Honestly, I already more time in it than I will get paid for it, but I just cant stand to throw good old cast iron out.