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tapping threads with a lathe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by doctorZ, May 28, 2010.

  1. 61bone
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 890

    61bone
    Member

    Lotsa good info here. One of my own- I use a drawbar on the tailstock from the carriage. set the feed speed to whatever pitch thread i'm doing. gun taps in tailstock chuck, low speed, lotsa sulphured oil cut 20% I use a old chuch that is well worn. Save my good one for closer stuff
     
  2. stlouisgasser
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 673

    stlouisgasser
    Member

    Some good advice here and even I learned a couple things here. Don't know if it's mentioned here but always remember to oil the ways of the lathe to help glide the tailstock towards the headstock during powertapping. I would also not use a plug (or bottoming) tap for the initial powertapping. Use a 4-flute taper end tap (or spiral) for the initial threads and if they are not deep enough, then finish off the threads with a bottoming tap in a vice or something. I've always liked to be pulling back on the tailstocks' chuck when backing out the tapped hole with my hand to ***ist pulling that tap away from the hole and messing up the first lead thread.
     
  3. CoolHand
    Joined: Aug 31, 2007
    Posts: 1,942

    CoolHand
    Alliance Vendor

    Brand name does matter. I will not buy a tap unless it is from OSG, Greenfield, Balax, Guhring, Hertel, or Kennametal. Those brands aren't a lot more expensive than the off brand or no-name stuff, but their products are head and shoulders more durable and closer to spec.

    Pictures

    Thread cutting spiral flute tap (1/2"-20):
    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2009117&PMT4NO=0

    Thread forming tap (#10-32):
    http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=7760578&PMT4NO=0

    Notice that the last one has no flutes? No chips are made, so no flutes are needed to evacuate them. :D
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2010

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