I use mineral oil. All these post and no mention of sending you to a panel jam? Find one! Drive to it! Learn at you own speed with like minded people that just want to hang out and paint. Sorry you just missed one in SC last weekend.
Whats up, Ryan, didn't know you were on here. I've stopped in from time to time, but keep missing you. I missed the palmetto panel jam also, I was out of town.
I agree....a panel jam is a great way to learn. Maybe a bit biased as that's how I really got started. Nice thing about a jam is that you learn from a variety of folks. Take what you feel comfortable with and run with it. I think once you have paint consistency down, you then start w/ brush control....then more brush control....then more. I recall someone on here practicing hundreds of repetative strokes on glass. Wipe it off and try a different line/motion. Repeat, repeat, etc. Don't jump the gun to design work until you've got the brush control piece down.
I also bought the Kafka kit and video and is really worth the money . You can always read and try buy when you see someone doing it , that makes it a lot easier to do . I also got 3 or 4 good books and a piece of glass . Used duct tape on the corners and placed the practice lines papers under the glass and tried striping that was . Easy to clean up and you won't waist a ton a paper either . Also go to the mini marts and look for all the small books you can get for free with house 4 sale and stuff like that to use to load you brush up on . Phone books work well too ! I also got some small plastic mixing cup from my drug store . They came in a 100 cup tube for $1 . They are for taking medicine in . Like the ones on the top of Night Quill . They don't leak or get soft and they are cheap enough to throw away . Cheaper than cups too ! have fun with those lines ! Retro Jim
When I was in highschool that von dutch book came out and I basically taught myself what little I know through that. Seeing his stuff that was never perfect inspired me, there was even one story from a customer that said a guy came back once because the stripes werent the same on either side of the car. I know of one panel jam local thats at the redneck rumble every year in Lebanon in august. Ill be going this year... Im getting on later to post some stuff Ive been thinking about since Ive been gone...I been at school for three days studying for exams. Ive learned so much more than I though twas out there just by you guys arguing with each other Thanks so much guys.
Okay finally here you go, this was my first real attempt after pulling the brush around on a couple liscense plates. I gave it another go today after all the suggestions had been taken, the trimming of the brush made a huge difference. I am using a mack 2 though thus my lines are fatty McFat. I also need some practice on thinning the paint. Im supposedly getting a couple new brushes so Ill post my better updated stuff when it happens.
The little bit of lettering I do, and when I decide to spend a bit of time practicing striping, it always amazes me how often I have to remind myself to relax and loosen up. When you find yourself gripping the brush like a pair of vice grips, it's time to step back and take a break for a few minutes. I've always used ATF to oil my brushes. It's a mineral based oil, I believe, which maybe makes it easier to clean out with mineral spirits. The only problem with using cooking oil might be that with enough time it can go rancid. When you're done painting, clean your brush as well as possible and remove the excess thinner. Do this by squeezing the bristles between a couple layers of rag or paper towel, but do not pull on the bristles. Then load the brush with oil, like you were loading it with paint, and use your fingers to work a bit of oil into the ferrule of the brush, where the hairs are atached to the handle. If there's still a bit of paint left in this area, the oil will keep it from drying up. Then gently squeeze some of the excess oil out between your fingers and shape the brush so it looks like you want it to look when you load it with paint. Lay it flat in the tray to store it. A metal tray is preferable, plastic trays tend to warp and distort from the oil. At least mine did. Not sure if any of this advice should be ignored, but maybe someone else here has an opinion about that.
ha as I was loading it with atf I was wondering if there was a proper way to do it, and yes when I do stripe I always forget that it becomes exponentially easier when just let the brush do the work instead of trying to force it.
Web, you need to lighten up on the pressure...you can get thin lines from a larger brush, just have to be more delicate. Some of the guys who do loooong lines use big brushes just to hold enough paint. I like an excalibur for the tight stuff..makes it easier to get thinner lines and tighter turns. www.coastairbrush.com has tons of brushes and supplies. Good starts, try looking at your work from off to one side so that you can see where you are going, makes lining up the ends easier. Good start. Like the defaced sign. Might as well ignore me, my wife does....
This, IMHO, is the best advice in this thread. I never pass up the chance to watch another striper work. I was also lucky enough to have Tom Sanborn let me hang around when I was starting out . Also got some good advice from Greg "Coop" Cooper, who worked with Big Daddy. Been watching this post (and keeping out of it till now) and just noticed 'Webb' was in Nashville. Sent ya a PM with my phone #, call me and I'll be glad to help you all I can.
See if you can find a copy of Bob Bonds' AutoArt magazine . There's usually some info in it about the various workshops and classes around the country . good luck in your new endeaver.
I've heard that learning how to properly load your brush is key. Can someone explain to a novice (me) properly loading a brush? Sorry for the hijack but it seems relevant to the thread.
Someone correct me if im wrong but I believe its more about the thinning. after you thin the brush pull it through the paint by sliding the brush through the paint in a sideways motion. Pull it back and fourth (pallet) until the bristles go smoothly through the paint. after I heard this trick I did about 3 ft before I had to reload.
The following tips are things I learned as an apprentice in the fifties and sixties. They have served me well. TYPE OF PAINT: Use One shot enamel, it is the standard of signwriters over the years. THINNING PAINT: One shot comes unthinned so it will cover. They have thinned it as much as they can. It is up to you to learn how much to thin, it doesn't take much. You thin so it will flow out of the brush in an even line and also cover. Do not work out the can, (1) pour paint into a small unwaxed cup. (2) Pour thinner (odorless mineral spirits or enamel paint thinner) into another cup . Add paint or thinner into cup (1) until you have the perfect mixture of paint that will flow smoothly and evenly out of the brush and the striped line will cover. As you work from the cup (1) you just have to add thinner as the paint in cup (1) may start to set up from drying. Take the time to get the mixture right from the beginning. PALETTING THE BRUSH. Dip the brush half way into the pre-mixed cup (1) Put your brush between your first finger and thumb like you have watched the stripers hold their brush. Lay the brush almost flat down on it's side and pull it back and forth through the paint. Be careful that you pull with the hairs flowing out of the brush and don't push the hairs toward the handle. Where the brush hairs are attached to the brush is called the ferrule. You want the paint to be worked fully into the brush by this stroking technique, until the brush is filled with paint up to the ferrule and the brush has a shape of a sword and not a big glob of paint. Be careful not to break the hairs of the brush by pressing to hard against the ferrule when you are paletting. APPLYING A LINE: Holding the brush in the striper position, touch just the tip lightly to the surface and pull the brush back and lightly apply pressure. Use just the tip and lightly apply pressure as you pull at the same time. Check whether the line is clumpy and not flowing. (paint too thick) Or paint is thin and spreads, or is not covering. (paint too thin) if it is just right you should be able to pull a good line a few inches. Adjust the mixture as you palette to get the line to flow smoothly and evenly. PRACTICE: Repeat the all the above exactly 1000 times CLEAN UP: Dip the brush into the thinner and shake to remove paint, change thinner, Repeat, wipe the brush gently away from the ferrule, repeat until all paint is removed from the brush. When all signs of paint are gone and the brush is wiped gently dry, Apply oil. When applying brush oil, work it into the brush by gently pulling the bristles away from the handle and working the oil into all the brush hairs, and up into the ferrule. Buy proper brush oil from sign suppliers, it will last a long time and has no detergents or sedatives. Your brushes will last forever if you treat them right and you can't stripe well with brushes you have not cleaned and oiled after every use. TIPS: Never use water or lacquer thinner in your brushes. Don't argue, just don't do it, Treat your brushes with absolute and unfailing respect. Don't trim a brush unless you know why. Use the proper brush for the job. Don't let someone tell you that a good striper does it freehand without laying it out. A good craftsman always measures twice cuts or stripes once A pounce pattern will let you see what the design will look like before someone screws up a car. LAST TIPS: Stripe in a comfortable garage space and not in the sun with the dirt blowing around. A striper can lay great lines, but have poor design talents. Beware of the striper who does it freehand and add a bunch of additional lines to correct his mistakes. A proper example of how to do it correctly is Tommy the Greek who knew when to quit. Simple eloquence, not a bad tattoo. Well, this is my advice, and I'm sticking to it.
That post sort of made me feel a bit better, Im able to get some nice round corners when im striping however the small circles are next to impossible. The brush just seems too big for it. Like the outside of the corner will be jagged and fat. If I lift the brush anymore though the paint wont roll out of it. My dad offered to get me a couple brushes if i would stripe a tack box for him, I have a mack #2 are there any others that are considered must haves? P.s. Hotrod1940: any pics of some "greek" pinstriping? I searched and couldnt seem to find any close ups.
How tight of a corner are you trying to turn? I have a 2 Mack and you can turn a fairly tight corner with out blowing out. Just as with any sword striping brush you need to "tip" the brush up so the handle is 70 - 80 degrees to the panel and spin the handle in the direction of the turn. I'm not sure but it sounds like the paint is too thin it shouldn't just run off the brush, but if you pause for a moment when you start your line you should be able to leave a nice round end to your line.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9c9fSDv0RM The three outlined teardrops that kafka uses in this video are Tommy the Greek style(you'll have to get to part two of the video to see the outlines). he did alot of teardrops and some 4 pointed sunburst sort of designs that pretty much defined his style. You can see alot of his influence in Von Dutch's work.
I'm 40 years old and have been painting signs since I was 12. I've lettered everything known to man. The pinstriping bug bit me about the same time the Hamb came into my picture..... I got all the info and books. Watched a few hacks, watched a few pro's. The best info I got was from Scratch. He's on here and will tell you how bad you are..... As you get better, and you will, just ask people what they think. Everything I own is pinstriped somewhere. Its like a really good addiction. Have fun. Kevin Ooltewah Speed Shop
Stand the brush up close to vertical, twist the handle in the direction you want to go and then keep twisting. http://www.flyingeyeballs.net/uploads/How_To_Hold_A_Brush.pdf
Somewhere in my list, above, is the sentence, Use the proper brush for the job. If you are trying to do tight arc or circles, use an outliner. It will make as tight a curve as you want without all the twisting. A striper was not made to do tight arcs. Guys learn to do it with a striper to keep from changing brushes. Outliners are easier and your paint is already mixed. Outliners were made to outline lettering and come in many sizes. Why do you think they offer these brushes? It is because sign men outline small letters and big letters and these brushes are made for that job. You can't get much tighter than the outline center of an "O" There is a reason that journeymen signwriters walk around with a box with many brushes. This doesn't mean that guys don't use one brush for everything, but don't let them say that is the right or only way. Remember this, there are many more amateurs that are striping than pros. Watch where you get your advice. This is normal because there aren't any true sign shops where guys can learn. The old days of apprenticeships are long gone. The loading of the brush and mixing the paint is exactly the same for lettering as it is striping. Flood brush styles, excepted for those who know what they are doing.
this info is great, I too am trying to learn the nack of striping. Had the honer of trailing 00mack for a day. The guy is amazing to watch, so much talent.
my question. "What to do when you screw up a line....?" I expect you're going to say grab a lint free rag and a small dab of thinners and wipe carefully... is this true, is there a more appropriate method (noting not to want to damage existing paint surface or 'throw baby out with the bathwater') Appreciate your previous input, do you have a few favourite outliners you generally preffer to use (brand & size/profile)? Unkl Ian, a while back you did a tech thread about the 'correct' way to hold a brush with photo's, can you possibly re-post it again, or re-direct me to the thread? Thanks in advance, this post makes me want to go out and buy some paint and brushes, cheers, Drewfus
a Magic Rub eraser works great to clean up stray lines but for larger mistakes alcohol and a rag a good way to go.
The Magic Rub eraser works good but for the price of one I can go to the local dollar store and buy about a half dozen bags of 24 roof shaped erasers that slip on the end of a pencil.Put one on the end of your Stabilo or Staedtler Omnichrome and you're in business.
I get 'em for like $1 a piece, sometimes less.They last for ever, and I like 'em because you can cut a little sliver off the end and have a nice sharp edge again.
Drewfus, I have some macks and a couple of new Blick Masterliners I got at Louisville last year. Haven't tried the blicks yet. I like the Kafka stripers.
The Jalopy Journal
