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Tech: Cheap replacement T5 Shifter

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Anderson, Jan 13, 2010.

  1. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,560

    Anderson
    Member

    Well I got the S-10 T5 in my car (this would also apply if you've installed the S-10 tailshaft housing on a WC). Whipped up a quickie shift lever out of some s**** to get by, but had bigger plans. The factory shifter wasn't going to cut it.
    [​IMG]

    The advantages I saw to an aftermarket "short-throw" shifter to me didn't involve only the tighter shifts, they included the shift stops so I couldn't overshift (I hear T5's are picky about that), and the ability to have a bolt-on shift arm.

    I didn't want to spend a lot on a shifter though. It's just a rat rod anyway, right? So I jump on eBay and find these brand new shifters for some Ford T5 for like $35 a pop. Cool...a lot cheaper than any S10 shifter I was able to find. I figure can make this work.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Pretty close. The ball is the same size and length. Main body is just about the same width, with an obvious difference in length. Bolt pattern width is off, but not by much. So I whacked off the offending portion and sized it up on the transmission.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Dis***embled the shifter so I could keep the mechanicals clean and make it easier to fit. Trimmed down the cut-off piece, cut, filed, and fit both pieces until it worked out. "Adjusted" the bolt pattern width with a round file. Destroyed the original shifter to use the base plate as a jig.
    [​IMG]

    Took it to work, sandblasted it and had the boss man weld it up for me. Got it back home and filed the weld underneath flat.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Re***embled the shifter, bolted it on and it fit like a glove. But the provided shift arm was far from a permanent solution.
    [​IMG]

    So I acquired an early Ford shift lever. I love the "swan neck" shape of these, and the gradual taper along the entire length. A little help from a hot wrench got it closer to the shape I needed.
    [​IMG]

    Cut it down to the proper length....here's what was left...
    [​IMG]

    Drilled and cut a piece out of some 1/4" plate to bolt to the shifter....don't mind the complete lack of squareness, I was trying something that didn't work. Weld one to the other and call it a day.
    [​IMG]

    In 1st, 3rd, and 5th...
    [​IMG]

    And 2nd, 4th, and reverse.
    [​IMG]

    Topped it off with a custom shift knob. No, it's not a beer tap handle, br*** knuckles, or a grenade, sorry. It' only cost $.25 too.
    [​IMG]

    A cover for the new trans will be in the works soon, and a boot will keep it all hidden from view. Next stop, chrome shop for the lever. Thanks for looking!
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2010
  2. Brandy
    Joined: Dec 23, 2004
    Posts: 5,286

    Brandy
    Member
    from Texas

     
  3. Good stuff. I may have to rip off your idea!
     
  4. hotrod-Linkin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 3,382

    hotrod-Linkin
    Member

    nice ...this will help these guys get an idea on their shifter problems.
     
  5. scrape
    Joined: Sep 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,130

    scrape
    Member

    nice word, dude....
    thanks for the tip on the ebay shifter.....
     
  6. Wildfire
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 831

    Wildfire
    Member

    Great solution.

    You can also cut the shifter base down the middle about an inch (visualize splitting a log in half) leaves a nice flat spot to bolt or weld to. Do the same, but the opposite side on the shifter and bolt them together.
     
  7. Deadbird
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,189

    Deadbird
    Member

    Cool post Eric. I was thinking those e-bay shifters might work, now I know. This will be duplicated in the C10 for sure! I hate that stock T5 shifter.

    Do I have to use an Illinois quarter?

    Thanks for the post!
     
  8. shinysideup
    Joined: Sep 1, 2008
    Posts: 1,627

    shinysideup
    BANNED
    from ruskin, fl

    Good tech! I thought the same and have all the parts piuled up. Looks like one could drill out the aftermarket base without welding on that other piece?
     
    Fatmatt likes this.
  9. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,524

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for posting this. I had alluded to doing this very thing in another thread, but could not find the pictures. The only thing I did differently was to heat-n-beat the end down flat, and drill it.
     
  10. Dirty2
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 8,902

    Dirty2
    Member

    Very nice Eric !
     
  11. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,560

    Anderson
    Member

    Yup, you could and that was my original intention. On this one though, that hole would have been drilled right in the middle of the step between the thick edge and the recessed center. You could grind the raised edge flat and have a good surface to drill on, but some engineer somewhere probably figured out a reason for why they made it as thick as they did. I wanted to stick with the same thickness throughout so I cut and welded it. Here's a better view of the top of it showing the recessed area...

    [​IMG]

    Lee - since the truck did come from Texas, I think you have an obligation to use a Texas quarter. I can sell you one for $9.95 plus shipping! :D
     
  12. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    That looks like the same shifter used on a TKO, except one of the cutoff bolt holes might be slid over a quarter inch. Factory TKO shifters are great and built like the aftermarket shifter shown. And you may be able to find an even better deal. For every hurst sold there's a stock shifter without a transmission......
     
  13. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,560

    Anderson
    Member

    Hadn't seen the TKO shifter before, but yeah looks like it would do the trick too.
     
  14. swimeasy
    Joined: Oct 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,067

    swimeasy
    Member

    Yup, We need a link please! Great job, I printed it to show to a friend this weekend.
     
  15. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,560

    Anderson
    Member

    Dave has it....so it's closer to $40...plus shipping. But anything else I've found is $100-$200.
     
  16. draggler
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 238

    draggler
    Member

    Damn tech week eric ,,,I like what youve done here! haha. Solid actions ,,shorter shifts,extra gears ,what more could you ask for ,,Good job ,,,C.D.
     
  17. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    I used the exact same shifter for mine. I simply redrilled the plate and filed the raised areas so the new bolts would sit flat. Not as nice as yours but I'm cheap and have no access to heliarc.

    I do recommend tightening the shift detent screws if you add a swan shifter handle like I did. The factory settings were not strong enough with the added leverage of the long handle. I actually hit reverse when going from 3rd to 4th. The long handle takes away some of the feel. After that adjustment mine has worked just fine.
     
  18. fordcragar
    Joined: Dec 28, 2005
    Posts: 3,198

    fordcragar
    Member
    from Yakima WA.

    Very cool, thanks for posting. Another great tech article.
     
  19. Cosmo49
    Joined: Jan 15, 2007
    Posts: 1,611

    Cosmo49
    Member

  20. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,560

    Anderson
    Member

    I had seen your post before cosmo. But I still wanted the positive stops. Two ways to skin a cat...
     
  21. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,790

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    all tech week to the top 15
     
  22. Shifty Shifterton
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 4,964

    Shifty Shifterton
    Member

    FWIW every one of these I've taken apart.... the positive stops have come loose and backed down to where they're not stops anymore :eek:
     
  23. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 7,560

    Anderson
    Member

    I haven't noticed them backing out any so far. However, in anything but 3rd and 4th gear the handle doesn't really make much contact with the end of the stud. I'm procrastinating on actually doing it, but as a solution I'll swap the studs out for bolts run from the inside out. Loc***e and the lock nuts should keep everything from moving.
     
  24. Bump for Rocky
     
  25. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 17,626

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    Thanks, Trent....found one on ebay for 35 bucks plus $12 shipping...comes to 47 smackers to my door...bought it
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2011
  26. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    Great tech tip.........thanks!

    Ray
     
  27. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,630

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  28. voodookustoms
    Joined: Aug 25, 2009
    Posts: 650

    voodookustoms
    Member

    Is there anyway to see these pics? This thread is exactly what i need but none of the pictures show up.
     
  29. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,279

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    Contact the OP, they are still on the HAMB
     
  30. rdubbels
    Joined: Aug 2, 2013
    Posts: 11

    rdubbels
    Member

    x2
     

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