TECH: low budget molasses rust removal

A guy posted a block dipped in molasses on the MSN flathead site about a year ago, the whole deck was deeply pitted from the molasses. It may affect cast iron differently than steel? Anyway, it isn't a foolproof technique.

 

I've done cast iron in this stuff, I doubt the damage was from the molassas. Or maybe he didn't clean it right after he took it out. I learned the hard way the whole part HAS to be submersed or what sticks out will rust super quick from the gas it puts off.

 

I had a similar experience as posted by a couple of people here. Pulled my parts after a week, and it had only started the de-rusting. Overall , it took about a month for my windshield hinges and two months for the window crank mechanism. Two months on the crank mech because I didnt throughly clean the oil and gunk off it, so it had clean spots and crappy spots where the oil/grease was. I THEN used luandry soap, then another degreasing with Dawn Dish, tossed it in for second month, and all was well. It did a pretty good job, but it wasnt perfect shiney metal. I was happy with the results over trying to sandblast the mechanism. I used a 9X12 Glass Cake pan (small time).


I cannot wait to see how well your results turn out.

 

Okay, My Bad---Put it down to old age and senile dementia!!! I thought you had started your test a week ago. And I'm the guy who gives everybody else Hell for not reading the whole post. <abject shame and apologies tendered>---Next time I'll look at the date things are posted.

 

"Flinn Family Farms Bedford Feed & Seed"

Now say that ten times, FAST!

 

tell me more....

 

My favorite rust removal technique.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

Unreal how well and quick it works. Turns rust into a paste that rinses off with water !!!
Museums and treasure hunters have used this method for decades with metal that is centuries old....talking about patina!
This method actually reverses the rust process, literally.

My first attempt were a pair of cast iron headers that were bare metal since the 50s and were rusted exactly like you would imagine.
The process for each header took overnight and all I had to do was rinsing them off with tap water and an old tooth brush.
They looked brand new and everybody thought they were NOS. No exaggeration.
After the first time you really feel like an ass for all the hours and elbow grease you wasted in the past with grinding, metal power brushing, sand or bead blasting and what not....just ending up taking away some of the original metal.

No other rust removal method will get the same results, without any hazard to health or the environment.
It's another one of those magical natural phenomena that leaves you with a feeling of being in total control over rust, after all.
Just coat the fresh metal with Gibbs penetrating oil and rust becomes just another word.

The Carter carbs of my 235 link below looked very different when I bought them for just a few bucks. Look at them now! I run them every day and saved $$$.

 

wait for it..

sweet

ifn you put the molasses on the wheels straight wouldnt the live stock lickem clean and then be heavier for slaughter?

 

A radio show I listen to on the weekends sometimes talks about using mollasses for fertilizer. May be good for your yard after you're done. He's got a website dirtdoctor.com

 

Here is the Tech thread on it. Make shure you use WASHING SODA
it works best.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10461&highlight=rust+removal

 

Okay kids, here are the results after one week. I lifted the plywood cover off the tank to reveal mold, scum, and slop. Did not smell as bad as I thought. Didn't smell all that good either. Anyway, I fished out the wheels and some of them still need more time to soak but are looking better. I kept the 2 best ones and took them to the car wash. Here is what they looked like after I washed the residue away.

 

Here are some closer photos including one of me holding my "new" wheel.

 

At this time I think that one week is not enough time to soak in the mixture. And I may or may not need to strengthen my mix depending on the severity of rust on the items that are soaking. Tune in next Wed. night as I pull the other wheels out of the tank and see if improvement has been made. Thank you for reading my tech post.

 

Removing the items halfway thru soak, to scotchbrite and rinse, really seems to help speed up the process.

 

Good work Paul, I've done small parts with this technique, I've also done the Vineager solution too. Both work pretty good. Vineagar is probably cleaner when pulling them out. Both work good though.

 

I have used this process for the last 4 or 5 years with success. I agree with your ratio of 1 part mollasses to 10 parts water. A lot of the parts in my 33 5 window coupe project have been derusted this way - including the floor, cowl, right door, rear axle housings, backing plates, etc etc. I have not tried this process on an engine block, but it has worked with heads.

A week is a bit early to expect complete results - I have found that it usually takes 2 or 3 weeks of soaking to get the rust off. After the parts are taken out of the tank, get the garden hose out with a pressure nozzle and spray the parts thoroughly. You will find that this takes more rust off. Then let the parts dry for a half hour or so and get out a small electric drill with a 4 inch round wire brush attached. Go over the parts with the wire brush - it will bring up the metal nice and shiny.

This process is cheap but labour intensive - it is not a case of putting the parts in the solution and having them come out all ready to go. Sometimes you will have to put the parts back in to continue soaking. There is also a bad smell to it - much like chicken manure.
However, it is a completely environmentally friendly process - when finished with the solution, simply spread it on your lawn!!

If you are not in a hurry and can put in the labour, this process works!!

 

Interesting technique. Maybe I'll attend the Hancock Co. Sorgum molasses festival this year just across the river in KY and pickup a gallon or so to try.

 

so . . . second week is up.
The inquiring mindless want to know . . .

 

Results?

 

So i tried this on some old chrome wire wheels that were fairly crusty. After one week they are looking much better but my question is what to do when I pulll them out? Do I need to get them coated right away as you would on a bare steel part normally or is some other trick needed to prevent them from immediately rusting again?
They aren't perfect but did clean up very nicely.

 

They need to be cleaned of any molasses residue with a scotch brite pad or steel wool. If they get a light coating of flash rust it is no big deal. You can scotch brite them again later.

 

Before....

 

After.... this was after only 3 days, they are a little cleaner now.


I am amazed at how good this works. I put the tubs way away from the house but the smell isn't even that bad. Why am I reminded of Guiness when I open the lid though?

 

Won't be seeing any of the Boston guys trying this after the molasses flood of 19!9:

 

Here are some photos that show a 34 Ford firewall after it has come out of the mollasses, and then after it has received the electric drill wire brush treatment.

There is quite a difference, the metal comes out a lot cleaner.

See my earlier post in this thread for more details.

 

I don't have any pictures, but I put 5 or 6 window lift mechanisms in a rubbermaid tub with the same ratio as PovertyFlats, and left them there for 3 or 4 months... it worked, but the rust kinda bubbled up over the rusty areas and needed to be rinsed off... they flash rusted in an hour, WD40 may have helped get the water out of the springs and stuff.

One more thing, even with an almost sealed lid, the neighbors asked me if there was a dead animal in the side yard.

When I got sick of the smell myself, I dumped out part of the mixture and sprayed it into the ground with the hose, let it soak into the ground and sprayed again. I repeated the process for a few days... The grass grows like crazy there now.

I've tried the Electrolysis method also... I think that for wheels and structural stuff, molasses bath, non structural stuff, electrolysis (electrolysis may cause hydrogen embrittlement)

 

This thread is a couple of years old and I have grown tired of the mess and smell. I still have the tank full of molasses but am ready to get rid of it. I replaced the molasses after it had sat all winter. Maybe I will just buy new wheels and not have to blast or soak them from now on. Anyway, it was a worthwhile project and worked somewhat. And for the money it cost me, it was fine. Thanks to all who have read this.

 

That's cool A guy from austraila told me brown vinegar works also. Im gonna add this to my favorites .Metal prep is getting expensive

 

Vinegar, molasses, citric, phosphoric and muriatic (hydrochloric) acids are all used to remove rust and scale deposits.

Phosphoric and muriatic acids are stronger and will take only minutes.
Flushing the parts afterwards with baking soda neutralizes the acid.

Careful out there! Handling strong acids can result in serious injury.

 

I realize it was an old one but it was one of the best written and had the best info. Thanks for taking the time to write it up and all those who posted.