Tech: Molding In Fenders On Your Custom

I recieved a PM from HAMB member fitzee, and I decided that I would like to respond to this publicly, just as an addition to the tech post. I didnt want to make this into a bodywork how to, as that could take a long time, and quite frankly, its all easier said than done. Ive been sanding bondo for 3 years now, and its gotten a lot easier, but I'm sure I still take twice as long as a pro would take. However, I used a few new products on this project, that are worthy of mentioning.

The U-tech epoxy primer/sealer is the E380 series:
http://www.akzonobelcarrefinishes.net/default.asp?sid=65395&pid=420

It sprays much smoother than PPG DP90, the 360 series has a flatter finish (more like DP-90), but both U-tech series are nicer than the PPG, IMO. Also, a gallon of U-tech epoxy is around $100 with hardener. A gallon of DPLF PPG epoxy is well over $200 with hardener.

This is a non sanding primer, however the u-tech epoxy sands much nicer than PPG DPLG epoxy does, but dont expect to use this stuff to block out a panel, it will **** for that.

U-tech makes a nice 2k high build primer that runs about the same price as the sealer (100-125 per gallon with hardener), and is somewhat comparable to PPG K36 (The PPG sands a little bit nicer, but for much more $$$). A gallon of K36 with hardener will run you a lot, over $300 if I remember correctly.

For these fenders I used Evercoat Slick-Sand. This is a sprayable polyester filler. After you have the skim coat of bondo blocked out (I use Rage Gold), Hit the panel with 2 good coats of the Slick-Sand (You need a 2.0 or larger spray gun tip), let it dry for a few hours (I think it takes about 1.5-2 hours in around 75 degrees), apply a guide coat (3M dry coat rocks!), and hit it with 80 grit on a block (by hand, not an air file here!). Then hit the panel with another 2 coats of Slick-Sand, and block it with 180 on a good block, and you should be pretty straight.

Back to the U-tech shiny epoxy sealer. This is what I use on freshly cleaned or media blasted steel, its a 4:1 mix, with no reducer. As a sealer over bodywork (remember, bondo, sprayable filler, etc is porous, and absorbs moisture. Epoxy sealer isn't 100% moisture resistant either without a proper single stage or bb/cc topcoat, but I would think that one that dries to a gloss finnish is less absorbent than one that dries flat.), I use a 4:1:0.5 ratio, with the .5 being a slow reducer.

If your not familiar with the U-tech line, its a division of Akzo Nobel, who makes the Sikkens line of paint (very pricey high end stuff). Its an great product line, at a fair price, a pro paint jobber in your area should have it.

 

WOW!!! Awsome work Chad.

Say.. howd that firewall work out?

John

 

Good post, really interesting read, and good to know

 

Thanks! I drilled it out at the spot welds from the cowl, and started to media blast it, but thats as far as I have gotten. I was sick for about 2 weeks, and wanted to get the body sealed in epoxy before the winter. I'll probably start on swapping the firewalls this weekend.

 

Great tech thread!! That is a way cool way of doing that...

 

Way cool Chad! I'll have to stop by sometime and check it out. Nice job.

 

Nice job on that Chad!

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

 

That is one hell of a compliment coming from John Kelly.

I totally agree great work.

 

Yes very true. Thanks John! I must say I'm flattered.

I am far from a real fabricator or metal worker, perhaps one day I will really understand what steel wants to do when you pound on it!

 

I'm thinking Tech Week winner!

 

Metabo used to sell their grinders to Home Depot, labeled as Rigid. Made in Germany label, same shape and features. HD recently switched to Made in China brand.

If my Rigid/Metabo ever burns up, I'll be buying a real Metabo. The smoothness and power between it and my old Makita are worth the difference
.

 

That is correct, but its sort of the other way around. Rigid went to Metabo as the supplier for their grinders, but the packaging didnt hide the actual manufacturers name. Sort of like Husky/Home Depot now going to Stanley for their tools. Metabo themselves has never marketed their line at a "home center". Interestingly, a few home depot's in maryland have a HILTI section, but some of the HILTI tools are no longer made in Germany.

I wouldnt expect your metabo/rigid to ever burn up. There are reports of pro pipe welders using these things for 5 hours a day, constantly for 10 years!

 

ive been working as a boilermaker 6 years, in that time we've had 2 bosch 4.5's and have had our first metabo for about a year id guess still going strong. considering the hell we give our small grinders (especially the new apprentice) they have lasted very very well. another vote for quality tools.only h***le i seem to have with the metabo is the geared head seems slightly bulkier than i remember with the bosch's, meaning sometimes a wheel change is necessary sooner when you're getting right into that last little spot you should really hit with the die grinder