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Tech question re: wiring

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by davidvillajr, Mar 12, 2007.

  1. davidvillajr
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,209

    davidvillajr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Am trying to figure out the turnsignal switch wiring on my grandpa's 51 ford club coupe. The switch was not connected, and I cannot decipher the Ford green bible wiring diagram very well...

    The switch that is mounted to the steering column has 6 wires coming out. One is YELLOW with BLUE TICKS. One is ORANGE with BLUE OR GREEN (hard to tell) TICKS. One is GREEN with YELLOW TICKS. One is GREEN with ORANGE TICKS. One is a VERY DARK GREEN. One is LIGHTER GREEN. The green bible doesn't list ANY orange wires for the turn signals. MUCH CONFUSION IN MY HEAD!!

    The big question is which wire is for which signal and which wires are indicator? I understand that front/back is not the issue, however, LEFT and RIGHT is....

    Can anyone out there help me?

    I can try to post pictures later, my wife has the digital camera, and I don't have any pictures stored on this computer...

    I also posted on shoeboxford.com, but I'm just trying to cover my behind as much as possible.

    Thanks in advance.

    dave
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,239

    squirrel
    Member

    If you are patient, and understand how the switch works, and have an ohm meter or powered test light, you could figure it out.

    With the TS switch off, the brake switch power wire will be connected to both rear light wires. With the TS switch turned right, the flasher power wire will connect to the front and rear right side light wires, and the brake switch power will will still be connected to the left rear light wire. With the TS switch left, the connections will be reversed side for side with what I just described.
     
  3. davidvillajr
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,209

    davidvillajr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I get you on this, the only problem is the switch and all attached wires were removed/disconnected from the vehicle. Nothing is connected to anything anymore, in fact, the switch and lever are sitting on the kitchen table.

    Could I do this with, say, a 9v battery and an ohm meter or light? Would the small battery provide enough juice to get a reading?

    Thanks for the input.
    dave
     
  4. recardo
    Joined: Aug 31, 2006
    Posts: 833

    recardo
    Member
    from Winslow

    Here's a fairly modern switch, if just for an idea
     
  5. redhumphries
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 423

    redhumphries
    Member

    is this an add on switch or stock 51 ford. the indicator lights are connected to the front signal wires not the switch.
     
  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,239

    squirrel
    Member

    if you use a battery, you could use a light, but a 9v battery probably wont' power a normal automotive light bulb. It would show on a volt meter.

    If you use an ohm meter, you don't need the battery. Zero or a few ohms means the swtich is making contact, infinite ohms means it is not.
     
  7. Goztrider
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 3,066

    Goztrider
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    Wouldn't the wires be the same where they actually go into the lights themselves? I'd pull the rear light housings off and see what goes where and then go from there. That might save a bit of confusion.
     
  8. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    That'd be great if it was hooked up, but it is not.

    "Nothing is connected to anything anymore, in fact, the switch and lever are sitting on the kitchen table." -davidvillajr
     
  9. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    A battery powered light will do all the analysis--you need to understand all the wires needed so:
    4 wires to bulbs--this is because front and rear have to be controlled separately...brake light wires no longer go to lights. Wire from brake switch is an input to turnsignal switch. With lever straight, switch sends brake signal to both rear wires, not the front wires. Move lever--switch turns OFF the brake light connection to that side only, turns ON wire from blinkerator to both front and rear bulbs. In rear, signal and brake filament is the same, and brake input has to be isolated or brake use would blank out signal. Front wires are separate terminals so they don't come on with brakes...
    Start by testing which wires are connected in straight position, then which are connected R&L. You'll need 2 cups of coffee and 4 aspirin, but you'll figger it.
     
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,239

    squirrel
    Member

    Thanks for the further explanation about the switch Bruce, as I mentioned and you confirmed, patience is required.
     
  11. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    This very problem fried my brain for several years when I was slowly figuring out the relationship between wire, smoke, and darkness on my '48 Ford as a teenager--I could NOT figgerout the brakelight turning off the signal. Finally saw a '56 Ford shop manual, had a partial revelation, then spent a whole night when I should have been preparing for an exam with my turnsignal switch and test light on my desk...it hurt my brain badly, but I finally understood. No one alive now could invent a switch like that--they'd rule it out as impossible, and built a microprocessor to sort out the electrons.
     
  12. davidvillajr
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,209

    davidvillajr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My humble thanks to all who posted, I am setting out on my journey later tonight.

    Got my meter out, a battery and bulb just in case, and have been practicing deep breathing relaxation techniques.

    Once the children are abed, and the wife watching "Idol", I should be able to devote some time to this wonderful problem......

    thanks all, see ya in the future.

    dave
     

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