Tech request - 3-speed Top loader Rebuild

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Old input: Clutch installation tool
Cluster: Lamp base


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??????

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Use your old input shaft as a clutch alignment tool for when you go to put everything back - haven't been follwing that thread elsewhere, have you...

The cluster is worthless - might make a nice lamp base - garage art - humor...

Flat Ernie - translating metric to imperial & humor into, well, more humor...

 

Ernie, I figured as much thats what he meant, but didnt want to take it literally. (DOH!)

 

More stuff: You will have to get a late shifter--early one does not have enough throw and fork won't fit late synchro. The one you want will have the vertical part of the casting where the shifter stick sits entirely at 90 degrees to the base, whereas your 1934 type is leaned back rather like a shark fin here. There are two vertical models: Model 68 (usually has a # beginning with 68 cast in) has small screw heads, maybe the size of your little finger tips, at rear of rails where detent springs live. This one needs a late fork added, you can't find those forks anywhere except in my ba*****t, and I can't tell you for sure adaptation works, so p***. Original in 1936-37.
The one you really want has an 81A prefix number. It was introduced in 1938 and used through 1952 in pickups. Early ones will have the wrong fork. Measure inside the span of the 2-3 fork; If it's right about 3", it's the one you want. Early type is mebbe 1/4" smaller--don't remember exactly. The two detent spring screws are big, maybe a bit bigger than a dime. If you find early fork, p*** unless you have a source for right fork. Most will have the good fork, which usually has its 91A number forged into it.
Stick must be from a vertical tower shifter too--this has a longer lower end for a shorter throw. If buying separately, late stick measures 4 7/8" from flat top of the lower pivot ball to the lower end. Early is about 4 1/8". Both types were made in many different shapes and lengths.

 

Okay, a slight update w/ the trans before I really stall this thread. Im going to keep updating it as I rebuild. So until I find another trans locally, progress is going to slow down. I got to bead blast the case and paint here up a new color. Here are a few shots.

 

after the blasting...damn so clean

 

Painted and "dressed"

 

Here is a shot of the synchro and reverse idler gear, thier not too bad, but my search is on for a later 3-speed. It never fails...always a better "one" out there to be had...and the search goes on..................

 

Ha! you stripe better than I do!

 

actually, the surface was so bumpy because of the casting, it was hard to make one p***.

I will say, striping is getting easier each day. Just got to practice more on the turns...heh.

 

Okay, just to clarify, I have a lead on a 40 Ford Sedan side loader, is this what I need for the exchange of the guts. Im looking for a top loader cover w/ forks.

Dont want to drop the dough for nothing if you know what i mean.

Thanks in advance.

 

bttt

 

Any side shift box should have the good synchro and late gears. It could have either 28 or 29 tooth cluster (count of front gear on lower shaft). 29 is lower in 1 and 2 than the 28--I think 28 is about the best of all ge****ts for a flatty with no overdrive and cruisable rear gears, but the 29 is certainly OK--it's not too low to be useful, as in tractor or something.
On sideshifters, this gear is easy to count, but it's difficult to see in topshifters. Someone recently taught me something I never realized in decades of sorting through Olde Ford transmissions--the count of the upper input gear and the lower drive gear on the cluster adds up to 44 teeth in all sets, so you can count the gear that's easy to see and subtract. By the way, if you find 25 or 26 teeth on the cluster, you have a set of close ratio Zephyrs, worth some $$.

 

Bruce, what about the mercury transmissions. I have an opportunity to get a 40 merc 3 speed. I Notice the gears are twisted, even on the main shaft.

Thanks for the helpful info!!!

Ill keep everyone posted on the rebuild.

 

Mercs have same trans as corresponding Ford, except that (I believe) all the '39's had the late synchro. All gears are spiral cut on transmissions from about 1936 on.
If you have an original '40 Merc trans, you have all the good parts except for the late shifter top neded to build your trans.
Look over the gears carefully--you want a complete good set. Individual new gears are around, but have gotten scarce and expensive.

 

since there is no difference then in the gears/ratios, I will probably go w/ the Ford, since its cheaper. The merc trans is a days drive to get it.

 

A Ford is USUALLY a 28 toother, but can also be a 29 or a Zephyr. The last sideshifter I bought for parts was a 26 tooth Zephyr--I saw the Lincoln serial number on a case dressed for use in a '48 Ford, and pounced!