Tech Request: Drill Press Buyer's Guide

I did a search and found some good tips, but have a couple questions left.

1. What's better--bench-top or a floor model? Is it simply a question of space? I have the space, so should I go for the free-standing floor model? I'm thinking it might be better in the long run, to not be chained to a bench.

2. The new models in my price range usually have 6-12 speed settings. What are the most commonly used speeds for metal fab work? I hav ehard that for metal, slow is better, but what range of rpms are we talking about? I know that in the world of compressors, it's all about the CFM. Is there a similar stat for drill presses?

3. In the discussions I've seen, everyone says to use a water-soluble cutting oil but no one tells where I can buy it! (yes, I am an idiot about this stuff! ) Do hardware stores sell this stuff, or do I need to go to a metal shop?

Thanks,

Tucker

 

This is helpful:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/85.xml

I get a lot of drill bits and mills from www.enco.com or www.mscdirect.com

 

I've got a big-ole US mad Toshiba floor model. The actual model # escapes me right now. It has a light (duh), laser crosshairs to help center your hole location, 12 speeds of which I have only used one, the slowest. My dad was a toolmaker for 39 yrs and has taught me slow is good when it comes to drill bit life and accuracy. Cutting fluid is a must. Just about anything will work. I keep a bottle of 30wt oil with a poited tip on it next to my press. Make sure if you do this, the tip has a cap. Stay away from cheap machinery.....buy it right the first time and it may be the last time you ever have to buy.

 

BTW.....a good drill press vice is also a must. Clamps are good, too. I get mine from Grizzley tool. Check them out!
www.grizzley.com

 

Timely Thread!

What are some good US made Brands that are out there???

Most of the ****sman stuff is Chinese etc. etc. same with H.D. & Lowes.

Good places to buy? Grainger???

 

Make SURE it has the capability of turning SLOW. My 20 year old Harbor Freight floor model has drilled zillions of holes but I destroyed a bushel basket of drill bits until I put a jack-shaft pulley setup in it to slow it down. It now will turn about 275 rpm and made all the difference in the world. Cutting oil is a MUST as well, I use a machinists type thread cutting oil for drilling.

 

Floor mounted drill presses are nice.
Most times they need to be bolted to the floor, but that's no big deal until you need to move it.
Even then, it's not that much trouble.

That said, my little brother, dad and I have run bench presses for a long time.
Problem with them is they impinge on workbench space.
Putting them on the end is helpful and since dad and I had a 16' long bench it worked ok.

Little brother put his drill press on a stand.

I did the same not long ago.

I think the stand is the best of both worlds.
The bench is clear - sometimes 16' is not enough - and you can set up shelves and the like on the stand.
Toss in a steel drawer like I did under my lathe and you're in fat city.

Flatheadpete's right on the cutting oil.
The main thing it does is cool things down and saves the drill.

I do run the smaller drills faster, but the big ones are at max slow.
Bigger the drill the faster it's going on the outside of the cutting edge and they tend to generate a lot of heat.

Nowadays the preferred machining/cooling/lubricant for drilling aluminum is WD40.
Get a gallon at the hardware store and an oil pump if you wish.
Seems there's a pump out there that's set up for WD40, but a regular one works ok.
Get a couple of acid brushes as well.
Use a clean chicken pot pie pan to hold a small quan***y of the WD40 and brush it on as you go.

Ace Hardware and most others carry a black colored cutting oil that has a lot of sulphur in it - doesn't really smell bad - that works well for drilling, cooling and tapping.
I use it on the lathe mostly when doing steel, but prefer TapMatic for drilling.
They make a dedicated aluminum fluid, but the one you want is labeled, "For All Metals."

Here's a couple pics of my drill press and stand.

The first pic shows the floor leveling screws pretty well.
1/2" bolts into threaded weld bungs with locknuts.
Handy to level the press and the small surface area the press sits on pretty much locks it in place.

2nd pic shows the small stainless steel tray that sits off to the side.
Really handy when drilling.
The tray proper sits on 1" square tubing welded into a "T" shape.
It's bolted to the drill press and the tray is JB Welded to the tubing "T."
The lower shelf is for storage.

 

1. What's better? Personal preference maybe, but I'll take a floor model everytime.

2. The new models in my price range usually have 6-12 speed settings. <snip> - SLOWER is better than faster - this will allow you to work with hole saws and the like - cheapy drill presses RARELY go SLOW ENOUGH for versatile metal work

3. In the discussions I've seen, everyone says to use a water-soluble cutting oil but no one tells where I can buy it! <snip> I've never had the NEED to get special oil for drill press work - oc***ionally use sulfur based oil when cutting SLOW - motor oil works for alot of stuff.

Quick thought on the SUM FLUNG DUNG versus gool old American Made IRON. Why is it we are so quick to run out and buy the latest SUM FLUNG POO drill press from Harbor Fright when there is so much good IRON hiding around that can be had for pennies on the dollar??? They ARE out there - just like anything else - you just gotta look. Here's one I found for 100 bucks!!!! 21" Drill press - 1/2" chuck (knock out) - will run 150 RPM in back gear up to 4,000 rpm in direct - full variable speed on the fly - no changing belt positions. Save the extra money for car parts!!!!

 

Umm, instant gratification? Same day delivery? Mine is the generation that spawned 60 second punk songs, after all!

Seriously, though, what the heck is "run out", and how do I measure for it? I understand it's bad, but I don't know what it is.

I'm thinking I'll go Jet, but I'm going to see if I can't hit some local auctions and find an oldie but goodie. Keep those answers coming, folks, I'm learnin'!

Tucker

 

I agree with HemiRambler, I prefer the vintage American made tools. I'm tired of seeing our American dollars flying overseas to China an other countries. Look for Delta,
Rockwell and other well made American models. They are usually in good shape and last forever.

 

Run out is the amount the chuck center runs out. If you extend the chuck as far as it will go and put a drill in the chuck and then put a dial indicator on the drill and spin it this should tell you the run out. Be sure you are putting the indicator tip as close to the end of the chuck as possible. Another thing you can measure here is the slop in the quill when extended. I have seen some cheap drill presses that you can grab the chuck when extended and move it a few thousandths back and forth. The chuck should be as true extended as it is all the way up. We have a drill press here at work made by DoAll that is so smooth and accurate that if it had a compund slide vice on it you could use it as a lathe. It is very old and I would imagine very expensive.

 

HemiRambler offered the best that I've read so far.

After looking what was out there nowdays in my price range, I went to the last swap meet specifically looking for a used drill press.

I bought a real sturdy old Craftsman 16 inch (I think) for 50 bucks. I don't know what it weighs, but it took two of us to horse it into my truck bed at the swap meet, and once I got home, I had to use my engine hoist to get it out. I can't measure any spindle play, and it drill nice round holes everytime.

All I had to do was put a new cord on it. It had the old cloth wire type of wiring.

I'm so happy to own a true American made drill press, and glad that I didn't buy any of the junk most are selling new nowdays.

 

You can use eBay to find bargains on large equipment that people are unwilling to ship. Set your filters to auctions within 50 miles of your home and local pickup only. No one bids on those because people are fascinated with shipping heavy objects halfway across the county. I purchased my compressor and welder this way.

 

I just went to my local used tool store. they had a floor standing model that was made by ***mins. I think. overseas made but I picked it up for 50 bucks. It has 16 speeds goes down to 200 rpm and works like a champ. I think it has a 1.8 horse motor on it. I figure if it ever gives up the ghost I will go back to the same used tool store and buy one of the millions of *****in motors they have for another 50 bucks and bolt that on. Sometimes when you are on a very tight budget you get what you can. Mine works and I am happy with it.

So moral of the story. Check out used tool stores. They usually give you like a 30 day return deal also.

Eric

 

If you are not opposed to Taiwan built equipment, I have often heard good things about Grizzly tools. They have a wide selection and decent prices. A friend who has done product reviews says Grizzly has excellent quality control for their manufacturing.

I like big old heavy American equipment too, but if it were not for Taiwan tools many home shops would be mostly empty. I have both types in my shop.

 

49.....around columbus, cleveland and cincy there should be places that deal in used manf. equip.........i haven't checked myself but i know there are...

there are a couple on ebay (OHIO???) if you don't like dealing through ebay, get their # and call 'em direct......

clausing makes a very good drill press....they are still pretty pricey used.....there's one in my cl***room/shop that i hope to bid on when they auction it all off...(moving to new shop= get new cheap drill press)

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I now feel like I know enough to be dangerous!

Tucker

 

A lot of times, runout on the offshore drill presses can be cured by installing a quality chuck.

 

I just hope there's a Tractor Supply Co. near you. Bought a 16-speed floor model drill press from them and I couldn't be happier. It's made by Clarke, comes with a vice, laser centering device, 5/8" chuck, light, etc. and it was under $200 out the door. IMHO, you're better off running any drill press you get at the lowest possible speed -- so the other 15 are a waste.

 

Extending the quill to measure runout is unnecessary - matter of fact it will likely give you a FALSE larger reading since you are now INCLUDING the possible slop of the quill in your runout reading. I do agree that the run out (in theory) should be the same with the quill extended or retracted - anything less means your quill and or quill bearings are worn.

 

Every cutting tool has an optimum feed and optimum speed.
Slow speed with small drills breaks drills now and then.

Note that specialized drill presses for very small drills runs at a very high speed.
Considerably higher than the usual 1/2" capacity drill press.

 

Who the hell designed the drill press anyhow? hE OUGHTA BE PUNCHED IN THE NECK.
A drill press should have a table about 2 feet by 4 feet. The throat should be about 2 feet deep. The whole head should move, not just the spindle... How come no one consulted with me before they built this ****? Rant over...

 

Chaz, that is why milling machines are made, it's just difficult to afford them.

 

Specifications:

• Motor: 1/2-HP, single-phase, 110V
• Overall Height: 31-1/2"
• Spindle travel: 3-1/4"
• Number of speeds: 5
• Drill chuck: 1/8"-5/8"
• Range of speeds: 550, 880, 1520, 2490, 3470 RPM
• Swing: 34" maximum
• Table: Precision ground cast iron
• Table size: 8-5/8" x 9"
• Table swing: 360°
• Table tilts: 90° in both directions
• Approx. shipping weight: 100 lbs.

Please see item G7946 for a floor model of this machine.


http://www.grizzly.com/products/G7945




Specifications:

• Motor size: 1 H.P., Single Phase
• Voltage: 110V/220V
• Switch & wiring: 110V
• Overall height: 51"
• Spindle travel: 3-1/4"
• Number of speeds: 12
• Drill chuck: 5/8"
• Spindle taper: MT #3
• Range of speeds: 200-3000 RPM
• Swing: 45"
• Drilling capacity: 1-1/4" Steel
• Head tilts: 45° R/L
• Head swivels: 360°
• Main column diameter: 5"
• Max. distance spindle to base: 36"
• Base size: 17-1/2" x 39-1/2"
• Approx. ship. weight: 400 lbs.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9969


Prices and shipping?
Within reason.

 

C9--
Would that first one be good for metal? It's lowest rpm is 500--is that slow enough for metal fabbing? The other one you posted goes down to 200 rpm.

Tucker

 

more info

 

C9 brought up an excellent point. A quality (Albrecht or equal) keyless chuck is an excellent investment. They hold fast and run true. You will not be throwing the key like a bullet across the shop and through a window when you turn on the drill press any more. Quick changing from center drill to drill, or to a larger size drill, will be 90% quicker. These chucks are not cheap, but last a lifetime and are worth it.

 

I'm guessing not.
I was more focused on it being a radial drill press than I was speeds.

I note that they do not list a steel drilling capacity for it, so it's probably for woodworkers.

My 25 year old or so Taiwan drill press runs down to 220 rpm.
It drills 1" just fine.

I do drill pilot holes prior to, the only thing with pilot holes is don't make em too large.
1/4" is probably as big as you want to for the 1" drill that follows.

If you have a big - say 3/4" - pilot hole the 1" drill is riding way out on the edge of the cutting surface and it's easy to overload it and burn the edge up.

Enlarging a large hole is do-able, just gotta watch the feed.
And speed.
And cutting oil....


As far as having a really large table goes, if you're drilling long stuff you need a support several feet out from the table.
When my drill press was on the bench I used a 1" square tubing "T" that clamped into the bench vise at the right height and laid the material on that.
I can see that having the drill press on a stand - making it a sorta floor model I'm gonna have to make some kind of floor stand gizmo for the long stuff.

Another thing that worked well for an outer support when the drill press was on the bench was one of those plastic floorstand trailer leveling gizmo's.
I see em at yard sales now and then.
Handy as well to hold up exhaust and the like when working on the cars.
Use them as is or better yet weld a short bar at the top of the adjuster screw that still allows the adjust screw to swivel without swiveling the short bar.

 

The Albrecht's are nice, but like 3bytheknee says, expensive.

I have a couple of Taiwan keyless 1/2" chucks and they're doing very well.
About 20 years old and no probs.

If you're looking for them nowadays, try to find a made in Taiwan model.
I'm not too impressed with the Chinese stuff.

Bought a brand new Chinese 4" three jaw chuck for my little lathe a few years back.
It was sloppy and the jaws further out of parallelism than 60 year old chucks I've seen.
Took it back and bought a Bison - made in Poland.
Bison's are good lathe chucks and I have several of them.

 

So I should look for something that goes slower than 500. Ok. I think I'm going to check out some of the used tool shops here in town, and a couple auctions, before I buy new.

Thanks

Tucker